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posted on August 21st, 2008 at 09:30 PM
69 Squareback - Oils and Fuel Hose Q
Chaps, As part of my engine overhaul / tuneup on Doodle (69 Square) Im after some advice.
After checking the books, Ive been told to use either SAE 30 or 40 engine oil, and for my 69 auto gearbox I should change the oil in it using Hypoid
Oil SAE 90.
Sound right? For Brissy.
One other thing, fuel hose. Im replacing the whole lot in the engine bay, it sells by the meter, 2 meters should be enough I hope.
Cheers!
Joel
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must be old books back in the day b4 multigrade
depends or the age/health of ur engine
most dailys ppl run a good 20/50 in
i run 10/30 in all mine cept my old 1600 which is getting on in years and needs thicker oil
90w is fine for tranny
u'll get debate tho over which is better GL4 or GL5
the original GL5 was bad new for vw trannys cos it didnt agree with bronze/brass parts
but afaik thats been sorted now
i must admit i havent changed my tranny oil since my gearbox was built 6 years ago
some of the gearbox gurus will chime in on whats best to use tho
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posted on August 22nd, 2008 at 10:38 AM
Yep, I was using the official service manuals, so yeah recommendations on multigrades and synths would bre great.
PurpleT3
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posted on August 22nd, 2008 at 12:10 PM
Auto using 90W sounds a bit odd to me. My 71 auto needs Dexron III ATF.
Castrol GTX 2 for the engine.
Get three meters of hose. Don't forget the bit the goes from the otherside of the tinware to the steel fuel line through the pan and the bit under
the tank that goes to the other end of the hard line. Replace it all while you're at it. Make sure you get the good German braided hose.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
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posted on August 22nd, 2008 at 01:02 PM
OK, about the 90w, in the manual it says you only use this in the 68 and 69 year gearboxes, I'll check my other books and let you know what they say
too.
Braided, check, hope mick sells it, Im off there tomorrow.
Any advice on spark plugs?
PurpleT3
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posted on August 22nd, 2008 at 02:03 PM
Could be right about earlier autos using 90W oil, I've never had an early so I don't know.
Bosch 8WAC although alot of people swear NGK are better. Sorry cann't remeber part no.
Braided cloth hose.
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most ppl advise against synth in vws
i must admit ive never actually tried it
i know it water cooled cars it gives much more consistant temps and doesnt loose its viscosity as it breaks down
but theres alot of hoohar that its bad for air cooled
sorry thats outta my jurisdiction
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posted on August 22nd, 2008 at 10:21 PM
hmm, ok.
anyone else got ideas on engine and tranny oil for Doodle?
mackaymanx
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posted on August 22nd, 2008 at 10:40 PM
Ok before you go destroying your auto, they take two different types of oil. The diff assembly takes the 90W and the auto section takes Dexron III.
DO NOT GET THEM MIXED UP!!
Gear oil will destroy the auto section and Dexron is not slippery enough to cope with the shear forces in a Hypoid diff and it will DIE.
A lot of auto failures in type III's come from loss of diff oil (everybody checks the dexron but not the diff) or the seal between the diff section
and the auto section fails and contaminates the auto section with diff oil.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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posted on August 22nd, 2008 at 11:42 PM
Good advice, thanks mate. Looks like Im buying both oils!
Cheers!
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posted on September 24th, 2008 at 07:27 AM
Found this article, might help someone else out, interesting read.
Synthetic Oil Explained
Whether it's evil stuff or good stuff depends on who you talk to. And a lot of what you hear from backyard mechanics is rumor and myth. Myth # 1 is
the claim that you don't have to change Synthetic oil as often as regular motor oil. Remember when Mobil 1 said you could go 25,000 miles between oil
changes with synthetic oil? Notice they haven't said that for a good number of years? Keep that thought on the back burner for now... Myth #2 is that
synthetic oil causes oil leaks. In this article I'm going to try to dispell these myths for you with the cold hard facts about the differences and
similarities between dino vs. synthetic oil.
Let's talk first about what "dino" oil is (Dino is short for Dinosaur, which is when it started forming). Dino oil is created from something called
"Base Stock". Base stock what the oil companies get after they have processed the crude oil that comes from the ground. From there, additives are
combined with the Base Stock, to create our motor oil. There are 7 main additives which include anti-foaming agents, anti-corrosion, etc, etc. At the
molecular level, dino oil contains molecules of varying sizes. Imagine the floor of a gymnasium covered with basketballs, baseballs, volleyballs, and
beach balls. Now imagine that all those different size "balls" are moving around, flowing past the floor. Every time a ball surface contacts the
floor surface, the ball absorbs heat from the floor. That is how oil removes heat from your engine components, from surface to surface contact.
Now imagine the same gymnasium floor covered in uniformly sized golf balls. Smaller, more uniform molecules can absorb more heat from a surface,
because there are more of them AND they have a larger surface to volume ratio which means they have more surface area contact. That's what synthetic
oil is. A man-made "Base Stock", where all the molecules are the same size, and smaller than those in dino oil. Better heat transfer, better
lubricating properties, and a lot wider temperature range without breakdown, are now obtained.
Myth #1 debunked
Oil does not break down under normal use. This is true of both dino and synth oil and is also the reason why you take oil to the Recycling Center and
not the trash dump. So if oil itself doesn't ever degrade, why do we have to change it? The answer is twofold: additives and contamination. It will
probably surprise you to learn that synthetic oil has all the same additives that dino oil has! The additives in oil DO break down, which is part of
what necessitates oil changes. The other reason for regular oil changes is that with use, motor oil becomes contaminated (dirt, water, acids, etc).
Using synthetic oil does not protect against either of these problems, which is why you CANNOT go further between oil changes when running a
synthetic. You should still change your synthetic oil at the same intervals as you do with dino oil. Anyone want to guess how many claims Mobil 1 had
to pay to people that were going 25,000 miles between changes?
Myth #2 debunked
Synthetic oil causing oil leaks is another commonly spread myth. The truth of the matter is that if all your engine seals and gaskets are in good
condition, synthetic oil will NOT leak in your engine. The myth started because on occasion, an engine will leak with synthetic oil, but not dino oil.
The reason for this is that the smaller molecules of the synthetic are able to get past very small crevices, where the larger molecules of dino oil
cannot. But this does not mean that the synthetic oil has caused the leak, it simply has "discovered" an infant leak, and regardless of what oil you
are running, this infant leak will eventually grow to a size that will allow dino oil to occupy and pass also. Synthetic oil has not been shown to
deteriorate engine seals or gaskets. It is not some evil solvent that will break down sealant, or anything like that. Like was said earlier, it is
just a man-made base stock, that is uniform and smaller in molecule size than dino oil. Nothing more, nothing less.
ADVANTAGES OF RUNNING SYNTHETIC OIL in AIRCOOLED ENGINES
So if you are asking yourself "What's the point of running synthetic oil, if you can't change it less often?" Here's your answer in a
nutshell.
Since synthetic oil has better heat transfer qualities than dino oil, your internal engine temperatures will be lower. Things like bearings,
especially, will not operate at as high of a temperature as a result. The wider range of temperatures that synthetic oil can withstand is well suited
for the air-cooled VW engine. With head temperatures normally between 300-350 degrees, synthetic will not breakdown while lubricating the valvetrain
components at the heads. The better lubricating properties of synthetic in general will lead to a longer engine life as well. On average, when
synthetic oil is run in an air-cooled VW engine, head temperatures stay the same, but engine oil temps reduce by anywhere from 10 to 15 degrees. This
is in engines that have all the correct cooling tin in place, and are not suffering from overheating to begin with. Important note: Do not run
synthetic to fix a hot running engine. Find the real reason it's running hot, and fix it!
Another benefit is that since synthetic oil is man-made, it can be tailored to suit a wider range of needs. Synthetic oil is now being made is such
weights as 5w50, and 0w30, weights that are not possible to achieve with dino oils.
At Aircooled.Net we recommend that you run synthetic oils in all cases, with one exception: you should continue to run dino oil (and change it
every 1k miles) if your car still has the stock oiling system.
In transmissions we can not praise synthetics enough; RUN IT, especially if you live somewhere that gets cold (under 30F/0C).
There is one thing I need to clarify though -- if you are not running an oil filter, there really is no point to using synthetic since your oil is
going to become contaminated very quickly. Your engine will still benefit somewhat from it, but due to the higher cost of synthetic oil, the gain of
running it before it becomes contaminated is negligible. Oil change intervals range from 1000-3000 miles in the VW engine with a strainer (not a
filter). VWoM (Mexico) recommends 1k mile intervals on non-filtered engines; keep this in mind for your pride and joy! But on the flip side, the stock
VW engine only takes 2.5 qts anyways, it's not going to break you if you do want to run synthetic!
