| [ Total Views: 817 | Total Replies: 12 | Thread Id: 71712 ] |
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Commited Dubber
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| posted on September 14th, 2008 at 10:20 AM |
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my engine hesitates at low rpm
thanks for considering this problem:
I have a 77 micro bus. 1 year ago i had the motor rebuilt. since this time it has never run well.
the problem is the motor will hesitate as you put the foot on the gas through each gear. it is as if the engine never warms up properly. at higher
rpm it runs fine. additionally there is black soot in the exhaust and a smell of petrol.
Naturally i find the above situation disturbing so i have had 3 seperate mechanics look at the problem. (This engine has cost as much as a Barina and
right now i would swap it for one if given the chance.)
the carbies are twin solex with no choke. a friend of mine says the right side jets are spraying fuel onto the butterfly valve (apon which it bounces
up instead of going on down)
we have checked and rechecked the timing.
electronic points set was fitted when rebuilt.
My questions are
1/ should i send the carbs away or buy a new set and start again?
2/ most of my trips are short. wouldnt i be better off with chokes
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 14th, 2008 at 12:14 PM |
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when you say Solox with no choke, do you mean Kadrons? Aftermarket ones - not original? Sounds like they need setting-up properly...?
Pay your debts, CxxT
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 vw54
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| posted on September 14th, 2008 at 02:06 PM |
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1 where do you live
2 who have you taken it to PM me if you like
3 i may be able to suggest someone who may have more knowledge
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vw54
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| posted on September 14th, 2008 at 05:56 PM |
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may be sucking air through the throttle shafts as well they tend to wear in the stock 2L carbies
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 14th, 2008 at 08:59 PM |
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Maybe the accelerator pumps need adjusting
pumping too much fuel every time you touch the throttle
or the distributor timing is incorrect..
have the mechanics been VW mechanics???
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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_me_
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| posted on September 16th, 2008 at 06:13 AM |
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i have the same problem. and i have kadron carbies.
coincidence?
74 > 54
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modulus
A.k.a.: Peter Hill
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| posted on September 16th, 2008 at 07:36 AM |
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As well as the carburettion, you should check that the ignition timing is right, as Lee mentioned, and also that the distributor vacuum advance is
fully functional. It's easy to have the distributor bench tested.
hth
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 kombi_kid
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| posted on September 16th, 2008 at 04:23 PM |
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also check your manifold vacuum elbows as they tend to slip off/breakdown these are the 2 elbows balancing the manifold's
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd
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mnsKmobi
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| posted on September 17th, 2008 at 12:48 PM |
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Do you have the stock vacuum advance distributor or a 009 (mechanical advance only)? When you say you have checked the timing have you used a timing
light and have you checked the advance with and without the vacuum attached (assuming stock distributor)?
Lack of chokes is not a huge problem with twin carbs because the manifolds are short. I have twin weber icts and just let the engine warm up for a few
minutes in cold weather. Now a single weber progressive, that's a different story!
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aggri1
A.k.a.: Aurel Griesser
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| posted on September 17th, 2008 at 01:15 PM |
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I'm intrigued that you say twin solex with no chokes too, as the standard 34PDSITs have electric chokes.
I too had a motor rebuilt and used some 'rebuilt' carbies at the same time, and have never got it running well. These carbies have caused me very
much grief, stupid things, mainly with a MAJOR hesitation at low engine speeds, much as you describe. I never figured out what the issue was and went
back to an old set with leaky throttle shafts and all which ran better than the shiny clean ones.
But as the others have said, timing (incl. functioning distributor) is easy to check. That was not my problem however.
Accelerator pump not being right makes a huge difference. Either too much or too little flow and also where it gets squirted even - during my
investigations I noticed a difference just in where the little squirter tube was pointed. Your friend might be on to something there.
Good luck dude, these things suck. No wonder the FI is so beloved by many (but strangely not the mechanics in Melbourne I've spoken to). These
carbies have put me off the 'superior' TypeIV, just 'cause I have no running issues whatsoever with the good little SINGLE CARB 1600 single port in
the '69.
Cheers, A.
EDIT: oh, when I took mine to a mechanic, he made it run richer to try to get around the hesitation at low speed. That was only successful in that it
became so sluggish at all speeds that the hesitation became barely perceptible. That obviously is not a feasible solution. Hopefully that hasn't been
done to yours. I mention that because it sounds like it's running rich (you mentioned soot and petrol smell). Rich running is bad of course and I
think that that should be dealt with - get rid of the known problems first, then find the real problem.
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westi
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| posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 09:05 PM |
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don't rev it down low.
give it the beans,keep the rev's up high and your problem will dissapear.
down sharon.
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matberry
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| posted on September 24th, 2008 at 12:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
don't rev it down low.
give it the beans,keep the rev's up high and your problem will dissapear.
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Spoken by a true bean giver.
All above is good info, at very light throttle, a lot can be caused by linkages, everthing fitted correctly/securely, both carbs balanced then
actuated EXACTLY at the same time...
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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4 of 50
Commited Dubber
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| posted on September 28th, 2008 at 04:52 PM |
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Thanks for all the replies
in the mean time i have had some work done
problem is better but still there
thanks vw54 i will contact your man in Taree
Ben
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