| [ Total Views: 792 | Total Replies: 11 | Thread Id: 71059 ] |
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 1916baja
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| posted on August 11th, 2008 at 04:28 PM |
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electronic ignition?
Should i be using electronic ignition? 1916cc twin 40 idf webers. After ideling for a bit she misses and backfires when under load getting up to
speed. After driving for a while at an average speed it's ok, But as soon as i idle for a bit, say at traffic lights, The problem starts again. kinda
feels like its fueling up and not burning it at idle? I currently have points.
cheers
Mick.
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Mick058
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| posted on August 11th, 2008 at 04:37 PM |
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Sounds like blocked pilot jets. Does it only happen in low revs (3000rpm and lower)? Does it pop when gearing down?
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1916baja
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| posted on August 11th, 2008 at 04:42 PM |
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All through the rev range, and a bit when gearing down.
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1916baja
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| posted on August 11th, 2008 at 05:14 PM |
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Forgot to mention its a 009 dizzy.
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Adsman
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| posted on August 11th, 2008 at 05:46 PM |
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I had a similar problem at idle and then when I first accellerate with my twin DRLA40's, high compression 1915 motor and 009 dissy. It was popping
(backfiring) and hissing, spraying fuel out the top of the carbies at idle and when accellerating under load but fine in mid rev range. I re-tuned the
carbies and balanced them, hesitation reduced by increasing the fuel at idle and poping was also minimised. Next adjusted the idle to 900rpm
cold=1400rpm hot much better again. (previously set at 600rpm cold and 900rpm hot) Another problem that arose was the motor kept dying when cold or
when first started unless I depressed the pedal a little bit for the first few mins. I recently have changed the exhaust to 1 1/2 fully merged headers
with 1 5/8 fatboy, very loud but drives great now and rarely pops at all. My idle is now great when cold or hot and the motor starts with no pedal at
all. (Previously I have a 1 3/8 headers and hiflow muffler.)
I guess out of this story Im trying to suggest is check timing, valve adjustment, clean points (work as good as electronic when clean and new), then
start looking further such as balance carbies, set idle screws, etc. as it could be a range of things slightly wrong. It is not necessary to change to
electronic points but it does save time in the long run. I agree with Mick058 check your idle jets/circuit/tuning first.
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on August 11th, 2008 at 06:01 PM |
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Knowing your carby set up Mick i would be more incline to think that the drivers side carby is having issues with balance as it has that dodge linkage
due to it not being a proper r/h carbie with the linkage and idle adjustment at the rear.
So if it were me i would probabley try and find a proper r/h carby , but for the time being you better bring it over to Custom on Sat morning and
i'll see if i can fix it again and we can dicuss a deal as my Cruiser needs some stich work
Talk soon Andrew
NOTE NEW NUMBER 0411556744
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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1916baja
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| posted on August 11th, 2008 at 06:37 PM |
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Cool, I will see you then. I'll send you a txt later in the week. What happened to the trim repairs on the Kombie? Weird thing is, It was fine when i
drove it on sunday?
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68AutoBug
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 posted on August 11th, 2008 at 07:05 PM |
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I recommend electronic ignitions...
I have a home built one [was a kit]
and it gave Me power i could feel and starts first time every time...
I still use the points...
very low voltage goes thru them so they won't wear the points out...
I adjusted the points recently, and I didn't have to move the distributor..
the plastic/bakelite rub piece had worn down a fraction..
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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4 of 50
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| posted on September 28th, 2008 at 05:26 PM |
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i have the same problem and i have elctronic ignition
not bagging the ignition - i think the problem is the carbies
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trickysimon
A.k.a.: Simon Azzopardi
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| posted on September 28th, 2008 at 06:17 PM |
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Ive got the same sort of electronic ignition as Lee. Don't know about his but mine was from Dicksmith and was also a kit. When I first put it in it
wouldnt run. Turns out it was overpowering the spark plug leads that I had. After putting some new higher power rated ones on it ran alot better than
before, more power and better fuel economy.
Simon
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on September 28th, 2008 at 06:27 PM |
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Yes,
Electronic ignition is great..
but it probably won't fix your problem...
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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Joel
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| posted on September 28th, 2008 at 07:35 PM |
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on a stock engine a well maintained set of points and condenser will perform just as well as base product lecy ignition ie drop in modules
ive noticed slight improvement in hot starts but overall if everythings up to scratch on a stock motor u wont notice any real diff
however once u start to improve other things then it becomes more necessary ie points bounce at higher revs etc altho the old solution to this from
memory was XU1 points
but in this situation u would be better off going for a high energy kit of some sort
theres alot of debate over whether its worth it
u can buy alot of points and condensors for the cost of eletronic ignition
i run pertronix ignitorII after going thro empi and hot spark kits and wouldnt go back to points again
i havent had to touch mine or dads for years as the timing never alters
but b4 that i put 30,000kms on a single set of points and condensor that never gave any trouble i just gapped them each 5000km oil change they are
still fine in my back up 009 in the boot
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