| [ Total Views: 688 | Total Replies: 11 | Thread Id: 71893 ] |
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 eraser
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 04:39 PM |
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broken bolts on oil sump.
Howdy all just grabbed a car and when i went down to undo the nuts holding the sump plate on 1 was missing and one when i was doing it up snapped.
Any ideas on fixing/replacing? On my 68 some of the nuts were males instead of females (if you get me) any other ideas?
can grab a few pics if need be.
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hellbugged
A.k.a.: Daimo Pell
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| posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 06:00 PM |
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helicoil
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 vw54
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| posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 06:03 PM |
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if you can get the broken stud out with out stripping you can replace using loctite
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greedy53
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| posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 07:20 PM |
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do these go all the way through if so try and screw them in aqnd take them out that way
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1500S
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| posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 07:25 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by eraser
Howdy all just grabbed a car and when i went down to undo the nuts holding the sump plate on 1 was missing and one when i was doing it up snapped.
Any ideas on fixing/replacing? On my 68 some of the nuts were males instead of females (if you get me) any other ideas?
can grab a few pics if need be.
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Hang on!!!!! ALL nuts are female! Do you mean that some are the right ACORN type to prevent oil leaks and some are just normal nuts which WILL
leak? If the holes are stripped you can replace with oversize studs (M7 x 1) to screw into the case and stepped down to std M6.
DH
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on September 24th, 2008 at 11:56 PM |
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Yes the correct nuts are acorn type..
the studs screw into a plate
and normally if the correct acorn nuts are used
with the correct tension which isn't very much
You shouldn't snap off a stud..
I bought a set of new acorn nuts, and I have used all of them in the past couple of years, as I have torn the thread out of the nuts... the studs are
still OK...
I was given some nyloc nuts with the extra sump I have but they leaked.. so the acorn nuts should be used..
I have a Tee piece with 1/4 inch drive that i now use with the correct socket on the end.
its VERY easy to strip the nuts or the threads using a spanner..
Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on September 25th, 2008 at 10:02 AM |
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Hi
The factory fix was stepped studs, 6mm on one end and 8mm on the other, care was needed when you fitted them, if you tapped the 8mm hole to deep the
stud would be set too deep.
I read on another forum where a fellow upped the size and used 7mm studs & nuts.
Steve
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1500S
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| posted on September 25th, 2008 at 12:50 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303Steve
Hi
The factory fix was stepped studs, 6mm on one end and 8mm on the other, care was needed when you fitted them, if you tapped the 8mm hole to deep the
stud would be set too deep.
I read on another forum where a fellow upped the size and used 7mm studs & nuts.
Steve
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Better using the M7 x 1 as the stripped M6 is the correct tapping size for the M7. The M6 threads are tapped thru so some stud lock would be
advisable. The prolem is that unless you have access to someone with a lathe you have a problem.
DH
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lauzboy
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| posted on September 26th, 2008 at 06:45 PM |
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I would not advise on the M7 stepped studs for the reason that you are more likely to cross thread it when u retap. The size and pitch are too close
together. I would personally go for the M8 stepped stud. Drill out the hole with a 6.5mm drill (ream would be better), then tap with M8.
These holes are through holes, not blind holes. You dont have to worry about threading depth because you just tap through the case.
1500S, i dont get the comment about a friend with a lathe.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on September 26th, 2008 at 06:54 PM |
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Hi
VW sold the stepped studs as a spare part and most other sizes as well.
The thread in the case is indeed a through hole, that's why when you fit the stepped studs you only tap deep enough so that they bottom out and lock
in place, otherwise they would keep screwing in and disappear.
One of the studs has nut on the top as it holds the oil pick-up in place.
Steve
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1500S
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| posted on September 26th, 2008 at 11:36 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by lauzboy
I would not advise on the M7 stepped studs for the reason that you are more likely to cross thread it when u retap. The size and pitch are too close
together. I would personally go for the M8 stepped stud. Drill out the hole with a 6.5mm drill (ream would be better), then tap with M8.
These holes are through holes, not blind holes. You dont have to worry about threading depth because you just tap through the case.
1500S, i dont get the comment about a friend with a lathe.
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No doubt everyone hasn't got a lathe in their workshop to produce special studs etc, hence "if you have a friend with a lathe" they could make them
for you. I thought that was sort of clear but maybe not! Also, if anyone hasn't the ability to tap the holes square, then get someone else who
can.
If an M6 thread is stripped there is no thread left to get crossed. Workshop formula for drill size is OD - pitch hence M7 - 1 = 6mm drill. That is
incidently the size of the stripped hole.
Another point is the tapping size for M8 x 1.25 is 6.75 or 6.8 as per chart. We'd better give our fellow veedubbers the correct info. 
DH
PS. If anyone wants any odd bits like this, as in the past, give me a call and I'll see if I can help. My profile could suggest I have the quals
neccesary to do this and I do have most metric taps and dies!
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eraser
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on September 28th, 2008 at 08:05 PM |
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Howdy again all, thanks for all the info :P Just waiting to bring the jack down from the the other beetle to give this one a lift so i can checkout
what is really going down. So hopefully later this week i will be able to feed back on what the issue is, i was also hoping to grab a pic of my other
beetles screw in type of oil cooler studs.
thanks again, and check back later this week :P
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