[ Total Views: 761 | Total Replies: 10 | Thread Id: 71834 ] |
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jedidan
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posted on September 20th, 2008 at 10:35 PM |
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Later model G/Box on 56 Oval ?
Interested to know (as i am contemplating this on my next project), whether to swap out the old Link-pin front end with a Ball joint from a later
model bug.
Firstly is this acheivable (i.e straight swap), or are there modification issues i need
to consider ?
I know i could do a complete pan swap, but this would spoil the integrity of
the vehicle's vintage (i.e chassis number).
The other, more important issue, is the the matter of putting in a later gearbox so
i can use a more modern 12V engine. (if i am to use the original pan) Though i understand i will need to retain a swing axle config, is it as simple
as swapping out old for new ?
would love to hear thoughts and suggestions.
cheers
Daniel
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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posted on September 20th, 2008 at 10:56 PM |
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swapping king and link for ball joint front end involves swapping the 'frame head' of your chassis for one suited to mount the ball joint beam.
the 2 torsion tubes of the ball joint beam suspension are separated by a different distance from each other compared to king and link, hence the
mounting for the 2 front ends are different and do not match.
so! if u wanna keep ur chassis, and want to transfer front ends... u will have to de-seam / cut off a ball joint frame head off a ball joint chassis
and use it to replace ur current king and link frame head mount.
I'm not criticising but was just curious, what is ur rationale for wanting to do the heap of work involved to change from king and link to ball joint
front beam? what benefits are u after? both can be lowered and both beams can be modded to be stronger than stock, king and link setups are the older
dated suspension setup, but this doesn't mean its bad.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
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jedidan
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posted on September 20th, 2008 at 11:06 PM |
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Good point BajaChris - I wasnt too familiar with the earlier beetle setups as i have always owned BJointed bugs. It was more a curiosity on my behalf
on what possibly could be done, but it appears more trouble than its worth. I have heard that chassis swaps were easier, and now i know why. Since you
can get a whole plethora of new machined parts to suit the older bugs, there is probably no reason why a change-over is necessary at all - thanks for
opening my eyes...I know for a fact that king & link setups have a better turning circle, so that alone is a bonus. Realistically i would prefer
to keep things the way they are and just add a few bolt-on mods....without going too 'nutso'
cheers
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jedidan
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posted on September 22nd, 2008 at 11:37 PM |
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Anyone have any ideas/suggestions about putting in a later model swing-axle gearbox into a 56 pan ?
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 05:47 AM |
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The later box will need a nose cone and hockey stick from an early bus.
Other wise you can weld a mount-pad in from the later car.
The mounts at the bell housing end will bolt in.
It may be worth slotting the spring plates bolt-holes,
to permit correct wheel alignment....or get later spring plates and tortions.
Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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vw54
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posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 06:43 AM |
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it would be cheaper and quicker to buy a 76 or 1500 semi auto pan and swap the body over
this is what everyone else does
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jedidan
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posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 02:27 PM |
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Thanks guys - I will certainly seriously think about which way to go - currently i am researching all the pro's and con's
before i warm up the welder or open the toolbox.....and off course there is also the effort vs the $$ to consider. thanks again...
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greedy53
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posted on September 23rd, 2008 at 07:24 PM |
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pan and body swap is easy and cheeper
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Craig Torrens
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posted on September 24th, 2008 at 01:16 AM |
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as above !
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Matt Ryan
A.k.a.: Matt Ryan
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posted on September 24th, 2008 at 09:24 AM |
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My 61 beetle has a 1300 twinport (twin relief case with doghouse fan & shroud) taken out to 1600. It has a 6 volt flywheel and runs a 6 volt
starter, it uses original gearbox and everything else has been converted to 12 volts.
All this was done by previous owner, he paid one of the Pell's to do it way back in the 80's.
6 volt starter turns the engine real quick when 12v is going through it and I found after going with electronic ignition I get instant starts. (no
bull, I barely touch the key and it's going)
Only downsides are, you can't crank it over for long periods (but I've never had to because it starts so easily) and the flywheel ring gear can get
chewed because the 6 volt starter solenoid throws the starter gear towards it at a zillion miles an hour when 12 volts is going through it. This can
be completely remedied by fitting a 12 volt solenoid to the 6 volt starter.
Later 12 volt solenoids wont fit but early 12 volt and some porsche ones will. I got mine on ebay quite cheap.
So, you can leave your current gearbox, go a more modern engine (not too late, or early flywheel won't fit) and run 12 volt electrics, all with a
minimum of fuss. All you have to do is make sure your replacement engine can take a 6 volt flywheel.
EDIT: forgot to mention gearbox ratios. With your current box and a later (bigger) engine you might not be happy.Should be ok if all your driving is
around town. My '61 has the later 40hp box.
Regards,
Matt.
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jedidan
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posted on September 25th, 2008 at 03:23 PM |
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Thanks everyone for your valuable comments
[size=3]IF I'M GOING TO HELL, I'M GOING IN A VW BEETLE[/size]
My Family's Swiss VW Buggy Legacy --------> CLICK
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