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posted on January 13th, 2009 at 09:50 AM
Oil Temperature - in the correct range?
Hey all! I just had a quick question regarding oil temp. I've recently fitted an oil temp gauge and sender in and am just wanting to confirm my
thoughts as my gut feeling (yes, I've been reading John Muir) is that she's running a bit hot. I have the sender in the sump plug, which I
understand is less than ideal and may mean that I'm getting lower readings on the gauge than what the temp actually is.
My engine bay has some missing tin and so on which I've just noticed (have had the bug for ages but am just educating myself now - sorry)! So there
are doubtless temp issues in there. So I will be cleaning the engine bay properly, sorting airflow issues, and have ordered some Hoodjax from vwcoool.
It's been running fine for me for 9 years or so, but I want to treat her right.
Anyhoo, on to the question:
I'm getting readings of up to 100 degrees after a little blat along the highway at 100 kph - not overworking the engine but letting it warm. This is
in QLD, but not on an excessivvely hot day so far. After such a run, the engine smells hot if that makes sense. If I just do a short, sedate drive for
20 mins or so at 60kph then it sits at about 85.
I've read that the safe range is between 90-100 degrees, and that 105 is warm. I've also read that a standard australian delivery 1600 (which is
what I have - '70 model) runs at 100-110deg during normal driving conditions.
Assuming I'm getting a low reading on the gauge from the sender position, does this sound too bad? Any advice would be appreciated. Other than
getting the tin and so on in the engine bay right and giving it a good clean and installing hoodjax, what's the next thing I should look at (on a
budget) to help keep her cool?
Thanks heaps.
VWCOOL
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posted on January 13th, 2009 at 10:53 AM
get the engine bay tin - and rubber - sorted, give her a good clean and keep your eye on your letterbox!
Seriously, you need all the tin in place: front, sides rear, oil cooler (hidden on the front of fan housing) and it must line up with the rubber. If
you run without heaters, plug the 'snouts' on the fan housing and the holes in the tinware. Don't be concerned about 110 degress plus - this is a
'water cooled' mentality as water boils at 100C. Oil doesn't.
Gunk on the engine can act like a blanket so chip it all off. Make sure your timing is spot-on and the engine is in good tune (tappets, plugs etc etc)
and your fan belt is adjusted correctly so the fan doesn't freewheel!!
Pay your debts, CxxT
Joel
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the dipstick test is good for a rough guide
if its too hot to handle even just for a sec then its hot
normal temp u should be able to hold it for atleast a few seconds
convertable beetles always run abit hotter, 1 reason is the extra drag of no roof and the dispruption of the natural cooling flow
this would be amplified on your bug being a roadster as they dont have the original big intake grill thats under the rear window
As VWcool said get all the tinware issues sorted and make sure its in tune properly
if it hasnt cooked on you already after 9 years it cant be running to hot
temprature guages are better for watching for trends rather than actual temp indication
vw54
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posted on January 13th, 2009 at 05:49 PM
YEs fix the tinware and rubber eals also DEGREASE the engine so u can see where the leaks r cuming from then fix those or leave depending on
where from
Also as per above check the air flow to engine is it a chop top r the vents fully open
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posted on January 17th, 2009 at 10:12 AM
Thanks heaps lads! Yeah - figure I'm more after trends than actual bang-on temperatures. That tip about the dipstick is gold Joel! I'm definately
remembering that.
Took her for a long (1.5 hour) run in the heat yesterday, and the gauge showed 115. Erk. She must have been running like this for years.
Will let you guys know how she goes after tin, properly sealing the bay, a good clean and the hoodjax.
