Subject: Reconditioned case pics and a few questions.
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Fahrvergnugen
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posted on January 26th, 2009 at 09:40 PM
Reconditioned case pics and a few questions.
Howdy everyone,
You may or may not remember me posting an image of my case and asking if i needed it reconditioned. Well in short i looked at it i then also looked at
the bearings and i saw brass so i decided to get it done.
So this is how it looked:
And this is how she looks now
Got the crank reground and case savers put in.
Now i have a few questions, I was looking for new lifters but i couldn't understand why there are different sizes anyone care to explain (to a
newbie)?
At the moment the cam looks ok, But i was tossing up whether to get new piston and barrels, and if they are larger do the heads need to be machined
for this? Also is there a way to measure the current size or is it just diagonally (i know sounds like a basic question but i may as well ask).
Now shall i clean the case out to make sure there is no metal debris completely, then re assemble the case and use cam lube or something similar or
just ordinary oil?
Also whilst I'm showing pictures and asking questions, i took the front beam off the beetle, now is there a certain torque the bolts are meant to
be?
Also how much grease should be on the front beam? is there some way to tell?
DavoBuggy 1641
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posted on January 26th, 2009 at 10:03 PM
Hey dude, what size engine is this and what exactly is it's main purpose intended?
With the beam bolts, i'm sure there is a setting but just tight, no need to go swinging off a 6ft bar or anything and just grease the nipples till it
pushes some of the old grease out, you cant really over grease it!
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Fahrvergnugen
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posted on January 27th, 2009 at 05:29 AM
Its just a 1600 twin port, and it will be going back into the semi--auto beetle.
thx for the grease advice :P
dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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posted on January 27th, 2009 at 05:49 AM
That is some nice machining.
Who did that for you?
Engine parts must be spotless before any assembly.
You should literally be able to eat food off them.
Once you think it is clean enough....do it again.
All passages and surfaces inside and out.
Get yourself a good workshop manual.
It will have a list of torques for everything, and sizes too for case and heads.
You can go bigger bores without machining... up to 88mm from sock 85.5 mm piston (1585cc to 1679cc),
but most people feel 1641cc (87mm piston) is the maximum for the thickness of the cylinder.
Some even say no bigger than stock without opening the case and heads for thicker barrels.
Quote:
Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
DavoBuggy 1641
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posted on January 27th, 2009 at 02:39 PM
Hey dude, well i have just built my 1600 again after blowing it up out at warwick last year, it's in my buggy (yellow with blue flames) and managed a
best time 10.318 @ 64 mph with only a engle 110 cam, empi performance lifters, kadron carbs and stock everything else.
The new upgrades include, 40mm stainless intake valves 35mm exaust + hardened seats, empi heavy valve springs, chrome moly push rods (need to be
machined to size), 1641 barrel kit and very precise machining of the heads to run fairly high comppression. All without splitting the case. I dyno'd
it afterwards and ended up with 68hp at the wheels, massive increase and very noticable however i must run 98 all the time now and if your car is a
daily driver you will spend quite a bit more at the pump. It all depends how much you want spend? If you do one bit you may as well do the rest or not
at all, at very least put a new 1600 barrel and piston kit and get your heads checked out for leaky valves, cracks ect...
Sadly i probably wont ever have a before and after 1/8 mile time for this car being my 'registered' buggy which is mainly set up for off road and
also seems to want to break all the time when i take it on road, so i am building a manx strictly for drag racing. check it out in the drag racing
forum, pic's are coming i swear.
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Fahrvergnugen
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posted on January 28th, 2009 at 10:03 PM
V&T motors did the machining for me, It was pretty funny i have been reading books to try and figure out how to go about fixing it etc, and they
suggested i call up and ask for an exchange case. I called V&T motors (down here in SA) and the guy laughed haha said he hadn't had exchange
motors for 20-30 years :P. But out the back they had all the old genuine VW machining stuff, he told me they used to be machining motors 24/6 for
VW's and now he hardly does 1 a month sad but bloody brilliant
workmanship, and great to talk to.
Hmm i may look for 1641 barrels and pistons then (just gotta be carefull with the semi-autos as you can shatter the clutch plate with to much
power).
thanks for answering my questions guys :P will keep you up to date.
jedidan
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posted on January 29th, 2009 at 10:58 PM
I rebuilt my 1600 TP for my Semi_auto.
I did everything stock, including forking out for new barrels, pistons, lifters and cam - All stock too.
I too was a bit hesitant to throw too much at the poor semi auto (as parts and spare boxes are now getting hard to come by)
and yes, killing ur box is the last thing you want to do - even if its just destroying the flex plate or the torque convertor - these things
are damn near impossible to source. Not saying that a big motor will destroy it, i just wanna keep on the 'safe side'.
Its amazing what a clean, tight, rebuilt 1600 TP can put out - my car literally flies up hills !
I even used a rebuilt 34pict3 carby.
We semi-auto drivers/restorers are a rare breed and its nice to see these things go back on the road.
Oh yeah - reassembly should be finicky - workspace should be clinically spotless (as should all your parts) - use disposable gloves and change
often.
I bought a bottle of STP oil additive (1 litre) from Cheapskate Auto and used it as the assembly lube. its thick and gooey and
doesn't run-off quickly like normal oil - this is particularly good if ur not going to start the engine straightaway or letting it sit and
slowly assembling it over a period of weeks. Cam lube tends to 'gunk' up the oil galleries and the mesh filter.
Also use PERMATEX for assembly - its not thick or silicone-based and doesn't dry quickly, so you can take ur time to assemble.
importantly, take ur time - have all your specs written out and in front of you (and list out the order of assembly) - having a book in front of you,
wearing gloves,
oil everywhere and turning pages just doesn't mix (writing it out also helps you to verify and remember the steps).
best of luck and have fun !
[size=3]IF I'M GOING TO HELL, I'M GOING IN A VW BEETLE[/size]
My Family's Swiss VW Buggy Legacy --------> CLICK
HERE
sad but bloody brilliant
workmanship, and great to talk to.
