Subject: How do you go about removing sleeve bearings in the front bearm torsion tubes?
bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 06:31 PM
How do you go about removing sleeve bearings in the front bearm torsion tubes?
I tried bashin em out, hookin em with something and whackin...
even tried a hack saw and after 30 mins, it was only teh walls of the sleeve bearing that got cut, the long flat park just doesn't get chewed out
very quick.
theres got to be a better way! I don't care if they get destroyed, i just want them gone.
any suggestion?
Thanks for reading.... its been pickin at my brain for a while.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 06:38 PM
Chris it requires a unique tool fitted to a slide hammer .
Bring the beam over to CVD and they will remove them for you
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
dangerous
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 07:48 PM
A circular disc with the sides cut off a tad to fit inside.
It needs to be thick enough to drive out from the opposite side with a long drift (or at thread and slide hammer like Andrew suggests).
Why are you taking them out?
Quote:
Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
bajachris88
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 08:54 PM
Thanks heaps all.
Got a set of long urethane bushes instead that go like 15cm deep in to replace these ones that seem all gunked up and hard to turn.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 09:03 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by bajachris88
I tried bashin em out, hookin em with something and whackin...
even tried a hack saw and after 30 mins, it was only teh walls of the sleeve bearing that got cut, the long flat park just doesn't get chewed out
very quick.
theres got to be a better way! I don't care if they get destroyed, i just want them gone.
any suggestion?
Thanks for reading.... its been pickin at my brain for a while.
thats why Mine are still there....
they are TOP quality German needle Roller bearings
and will last forever if the torsion bars are greased with lithium based moly grease at each oil change...
I really doubt if you can cut them up....
the stainless steel is too hard....
but You may be able to knock them out...
or I should say - pull them out...
best of luck
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 09:23 PM
i already sored the edges, ripped the metal roller sleeves out and the gauze cage that held em in lol.
They are already fully shagged!
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 09:32 PM
I had a small needle roller bearing cut out of the clutch
in the auto...
by an engineer who i knew....
it took Him ages to cut thru the stainless steel body
with a very small hand held die grinder....
Lucky I knew Him... lol
You could try to get something under one edge , a pin punch??
.. but saying it is a lot harder then doing it..
I haven't attempted to cut any needle roller bearings since
maybe an electric hack saw...
hand held... if there is such a thing...
Best of luck Chris...
LEE
PS: Them Germans just made things too good.... lol
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
The international telephone dialing code for Antarctica is 672.
Posts: 6661
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posted on March 26th, 2009 at 09:41 PM
lol Thanx Lee. i will have to put the thinkin cap on. I am calling past up north, but on a sunday. maybe i will just make the trip next week.
the urethane is suppose to spread the whole load across 4 inches from the outside to the inside of the beam, it replaces the needle bearings and
wateva the end cap/seal thing starting with M....
Suppose to be self lubricating too. Alot of new cars got it for their trailing arms and stuff, control arm's and wat not, with no continuous
maintenance with grease etc etc.
Although these will be lubed to the nut house by me. Just wanna make it steardy for a bit of hoppin... I already seam welded the front beam and
finished the cut and turn raising.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
AussieveedubbersTech Talk How do you go about removing sleeve bearings in the front bearm torsion tubes?