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 beetleboy88
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 04:00 PM |
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Electronic Rust Proofing
Hey guys,
Just thought i would ask on here if anyone has tried or has that electric rust proofing installed on their VW's. I have heard it works wonders and
was thinking of getting a quote to get it installed on my beetle before the wet season kicks in and rust starts to appear 
As i have just spent a fortune on cutting all the rust out and a full respray on my car so i would like to protect it as much as possible! Please let
me know what you reckon and share your stories about electronic rust proofing.
Cheers guys,
Quin
1973 Super Beetle
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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karmann crazy
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 04:32 PM |
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.
i know they flatten your battery if you dont use the car much, i have yet to see proof they work, i had a small 1 on my kombi and i swear it did
nothing so i threw it and got a bigger 1, some people say you can tell it works when dust doesnt stick to the car due to static but hey mines
dusty!Either way i dont know, you cant beat a good fishoil and tectol inside the cavities if you ask me!
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 04:42 PM |
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a mate of mine had one on his 4x4 ute. think it was a triton? its going bak 2 yrs now. he showed me it... it was factory and came with the car. (maybe
an option or sumfin)
anyways... the science behind it is tru, but it doesn't cure the issue!
After talking with this mate back at the timber yard about his triton and his ERPS... he said "Chris come have a look for yourself"... and pointed
me to the vast amounts of surface rust all appearing around his windscreen. That rust wasn't there 12 months ago, and it was pretty abundant. The
green light on the ERPS was shining brightly so it was 'doing its job' as such, yet rust was still appearing.
It was only surface rust... and by all means, i'm sure the system assisted but wasn't fail safe.
It was probably a 10 yr old car though.. maybe the ERPS tech has got a bit better now.
I would still buy one myself. Just to help me sleep at night :P. Doesn't smell as bad as fish oil either! lol.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Pumba
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 05:22 PM |
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Is there really a santa
69 Beetle
66 Beetle
56 Beetle
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 helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
Super Administrator
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 05:43 PM |
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If it is made of iron it WILL rust. You cannot stop the oxidisation of iron unless you stop oxygen from getting to it.
Keep your car dry
Keep your car covered in a ventilated area.
Keep it clean
A sealed car cover is no good if the car is wet at all. A garage that has mould growing in it because it is so damp is no good either. Leaving years
of dirt in the crevices of the vehicle will start rot too.
Also remember if you have had any welding at all done on your car to cut out rust, that is the first area to start rusting again. The heat from
welding burns any protective coating on any metal and the rust starts showing within hours behind where you cant see. Your only help is to fill all
crevices inside any pillars or encloses joins with a water dispersing product. One of the commonly used is fish oil. It does a good job at stopping
water from making fish go all wrinkly in the water.
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gsa2at
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 08:53 PM |
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this is a good question as it seems this product is sold an said to work
our 10 yr old landcruiser has this fitted and hasn;t rusted but its mostly plastic and i am pretty sure toyota has better metal treatment and sealants
than any cars built 30 + years ago
in my limited scientific knowledge it should only work if there is a sacrificial anode like on some boats
maybe there should be a trial done on old kombis as they seem to love having rusty sills and door bottoms
jack the beetle rides again !!!
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Joel
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 09:10 PM |
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well my experience has proved them to be a crock
my old boss lived pretty much right on the beach so as u can imagine his cars start rusting pretty quick.
hes one of these guys that gets a new car as soon as the ashtray is full so we tried a few things to the cars over the years
he got an XH longreach that had the said ERP units fitted from new
well within 2 years it was back at ford with $1800 worth of rust repairs
the next AU from that had one as well as some wax treatment and within 12 month the bottoms of the doors were beginning to bubble
didnt bother wasting any more money on them after that
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Snap Crackle Bang
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| posted on October 23rd, 2009 at 10:33 PM |
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A sacrificial anode would only work if your car was submerged in water, and the VW crankcase is magnesium alloy anyway, so we've already got one
fitted from the factory.
These gizmos are in the same category as all the magical fuel saving devices.
Now an energy polarizer on the other hand............
Just kidding!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 01:23 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by beetleboy88
Hey guys,
Just thought i would ask on here if anyone has tried or has that electric rust proofing installed on their VW's. I have heard it works wonders and
was thinking of getting a quote to get it installed on my beetle before the wet season kicks in and rust starts to appear
As i have just spent a fortune on cutting all the rust out and a full respray on my car so i would like to protect it as much as possible!
Please let me know what you reckon and share your stories about electronic rust proofing. [never heard a Good story]
Cheers guys,
Quin
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I read about it a few years ago, and it was only recommended for NEW cars...
but when Mitsubishi give you a 10 year No Rust warranty... on a new car... why would you bother..
When i had My beetle pulled apart.. I used 4 litres and 6 pressure pack cans of deodorised fish oil..
Killrust brand..
I sprayed and poured fish oil everywhere...
just wiped the excess off before it dried...
or you can use turps etc to take the excess off within a few days... after it dries... it sticks to paint or metal or rusted metal ... anything..
and stops air /oxygen from reaching the surface etc...
so, Rust cannot start or continue...
I kept recoating after a few weeks...
I have done this to rusted cars years ago and 10 years later they are still on the road..
I sprayed it into the heater channels.. centre tunnel .. in the holes for the interior lamps.. [I have one either side lol ]
If I couldn't access an area i'd drill a hole...
I brushed a few coats under the guards.. in between the guards and body.. I then painted over the fish oil after many months.. with killrust
paint..
same inside the doors.. and in behind the door hinges under the bonnet.. as i had the windows out I coated where the window rubbers fit many
times...
You can do this once the rubbers are in by using the long tube which comes with the pressure pack spray and poking it under the rubber at the top, so
it flows both ways...
remembering that the front and rear windows have drain holes in them... You can let them be blocked up or poke something thru the holes... I left
mine blocked up..
remember any excess can be wiped off..
leave the doors open so any excess can drip out the bottom holes..
for the painted surfaces you can see...
use canubra wax.. like mothers or meguiers
it pays to use the best..
and don't forget the bumpers too..
cheers
LEE
PS: I wax My Car approx every three weeks
including the chrome... Lee
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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donn
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 07:26 AM |
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I always thought this electronic stuff was bs, however here in Newcastle they have/are spending mega $ on repairing the facard of the building at the
ocean baths because of huge concrete cancer problems and part of the rectification was installing an electronic system to supposedly stop the
reinforcing steel from rusting again, I can only assume that the engineers etc in charge of getting the work done have done their homework and reckon
it works.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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coletrickle
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 10:00 AM |
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I sell bridges,marshmellow shoes and holiday packages to fantasay land i await your calls and can i can be reached at 1-800-SCAM
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grogy
Custom Title Time!
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 12:42 PM |
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hi, i got a friend who lives on the beach at main beach [gold coast back yard is sand to surf] and he uses both electronic and fish oil tectryl and
has no rust after years, he reckons both are worth using.
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beetleboy88
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 02:31 PM |
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Well from what all you guys have said it all sounds a bit 50/50. I know my panel beater put fish oil through the car but I'm not 100% sure if it was
sprayed on the exterior like Lee said and then painted over. I might go back to my panel beater next week and just ask him where abouts he put fish
oil on the car. I might actually go and talk to the guys that sell those electronic rust protection kits and see what they have to say. All in all i
guess it's just a matter of keeping my car as clean and dry as possible at all times. I know my car will rust again eventually living so close to the
beach but if i can hold it off for as long as possible that would be tops.
Thanks for your input guys
Quin
1973 Super Beetle
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helbus
A.k.a.: Pete S
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 05:04 PM |
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You cant put fish oil on a car then paint over it. Car paint doesn't stick to oil. It is used inside all crevices. Like inside a fish.
When a car is built, the panels have to be bare metal to allow the electronic resistance welding machines to spot weld the car together. Anywhere a
MIG or gas welding is done burns any protection you have away. So a welded car body is a rusting car body from day 1. With newer cars, they dip the
whole finished body in an E coat process that electrically coats the whole body in and out.
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
23 Windows of Awesome
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| posted on October 24th, 2009 at 05:55 PM |
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Maybe we should all invest in a giant tub to galvanise our vw bodies :P
would be a pretty cool finish... like gal look... slammed... swing axle camber with some tall fat rims :P
mmmmm....
gal.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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