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Author: Subject:  1835cc
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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 08:16 PM
1835cc


I've recently bought a 1970's Bug with an 1835cc Engine with Twin 40 Kadrons and I love it!

After a bit of research I've seem to come to the conclusion that 1835's aren't the pick of the crop. I'm not really fussed at this point in time (it's my first of many bugs to come, so any motor will do for me at the moment).

My question is, why are the 1835's not as accepted as the 1776's or the 1916's? I've herd they're not long lasting motors. Sorry if this is a repost, I just couldn't find much information on it all.

Also, if you're explaining why with technical jargon, could you do an "idiots guide to engines" style of answer? E.g. - The pistons are too small etc.?

Also, if I were wanting to increase the capacity to a 1916 or even 2000cc +, is it basically the price of a new engine all over again?

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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 08:22 PM



When you bore the case the outside diameter for a 1776 is the same as a 1835

A 1776 take a cylinder size of 90.5 and a 1835 takes a cylinder size od 92

Now - if the are both the same size outside diameter the only difference is wall thickness of the actuat cylinder

What does this mean??

When you give the car a work out it gets hot
hot results in warping of the cylinders

because the rings are hard steel and stay round, the now oval / egg shape of the cylinder causes leakage on the compression stoke

ie - blow by

This reults in crancase pressure and less "compression" in the cylinder

1585 - good
1641 - sip in - not so good
1688 (slip in) - evem worse

1775 - first machine stage - good
1835 - slip in - not so good

1916 - next machine stage - good




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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 08:27 PM



as barry said there just 1776 thinned down to fit bigger pistons

i had one years ago when i didnt know any better and it was a heap of shit also
i think it ate more oil than fuel
they get shocking blow by and run hot

but untill yours shows signs of doing that just enjoy it :tu:
as crap as mine was it still went hard
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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 08:29 PM



When problems happen - just throw a set of 1776 P&C's in there and all will be well

Nothing to worry about till later

Yours isnt a daily driver so no need to worry

Yes - they do make good power :tu:




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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 08:52 PM



Yep, as above. Although I've had great results with 87mm 1641 engines.



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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 08:57 PM



Haha the problem is it is my daily!



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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 09:14 PM



Then you will be able to give first hand results because all my crap is here say :D



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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 09:32 PM



I have a 1835 in my oval and i have had the motor for some 15 years.It hasn't always been my daily, but for the last 4 years i have driven this car evey day.I have driven it to Valla, VW Nats in Sydney (3 times) and many trips to Newcastle (about 300 ks return). I run a doghouse cooler,a external oil filter and twin weber carbs.She has a counterweighted crank, lightened flywheel ratio rockers and has seen 6000rpm a few times.It has never let me down.It does tend to mist oil out of the breather when driven hard but apart from that shes a beauty.
While i wouldn't like to drive it across the Nullabour in 40 degree heat she seems fine.Although i do take it easer when i feel the air blowing (though a open window) is hot. I run decklid standoff/ hoodjack type brackets in summer and have a row of vents on my engine lid.
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posted on November 15th, 2009 at 10:38 PM



Thanks for all the info guys, hopefully it'll treat me for a while by not dying :D

Just the other question - If i wanted to upgrade to a 1916, is it basically the same as going from a 1600 to a 1916 in terms of pricing?

Cheers and Big ears,
ollie




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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 07:18 AM



yes

You case is alread bore for 1775 / 1835

You need to make a bigger hole to take the 1916 cylinders

You will also need to open the heads up as well




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posted on November 16th, 2009 at 07:41 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by OMClarke
Thanks for all the info guys, hopefully it'll treat me for a while by not dying :D

Just the other question - If i wanted to upgrade to a 1916, is it basically the same as going from a 1600 to a 1916 in terms of pricing?

Cheers and Big ears,
ollie


Yes. Machining and assembly costs will be the same so you may be better off starting all over again with a standard 1600... and keep or sell your 1835




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