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NuZo
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 12:37 AM |
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What should i do???
Hi All!
NuZo Here!!
hvnt been around much lately due to work and such.
but thats not important :P
i need to figure out what to do with my bug...
Engine case has a crack in it and has been leaking oil like a mofo!
so in light of this, new engine would most likley be the option.
What i want to know is, would it be worth going for another stocker, a kitted up engine or all forward for the EJ20T.
My estimate on price for ej20T conversion would be somewhere near 10k(not 100%)
for a mild 1916 we are looking at 4-5k installed
and stocker.. mebbe 1k installed.
i dont really want to go stock, as iv been running around in stock beetles for ever! i would LOOOOOVE an ej20, but really i dont have 10k+ to throw at
my car.
Mild 1916 or something similar would be nice as its got alot more grunt then stock, but really, how long will this engine last? $5k is well and good,
but if its $5k every 5 years... well im better off getting the ej20.
and stock..man, i really dont want stock. its just so plain and boring(sorry, but im young! i need something to make me go wooosh)
Im stumped. my bugs been sitting outside for about 6 months...just sitting, waiting, slowly dying.
and it kills me to see it like this...
i hope some of you with answers can help me out!
is it better to just let it go? to some one who will have more fun with it? NO! i want and love my car, just blinded by my options!
Thank you all!
Please help!
NuZo
TLDR: crazy man needs help with engine choice, dying beetle

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donn
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 04:31 AM |
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Sorry, no help here, I've been throwing around those ideas for over 12 months, mind you my motor hasn't died I just feel I want a little more
go.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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beetleboyjeff
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 05:58 AM |
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Hey NuZo, I am onto my 3rd 1916, but I do get well over 100,000km out of them. I am a builder and tow a trailer quite a bit, so I do work them quite
hard, so just as a daily driver, I reckon you could get a lot more. I find it they are just as easy to look after as a stock motor, but have a lot
more go at a reasonable price. I am quite happy with them.
The first 2 failed for different reasons, the first cracked the case near the oil pressure switch (but was otherwise not too bad), and the second one
started recessing valve guides, but did suffer a bit from low oil pressure. My current motor has an alloy case and 044 heads, so I am hoping it will
last even longer.
I do love the sound and feel of the 1916 - just seems so more VWish.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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Phil74Camper
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 08:10 AM |
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There's an old saying - "Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?"
A nice fresh 1600 stocker will give you a small but noticeable improvement over a 1500. For slightly more performance you buy a 1640, which won't
need any machining of the case and heads. For normal driving it should last as long as a stocker. Bigger VW engines go faster still but cost more $$
as you noticed. And you should also upgrade the brakes and suspension if you go with the 1916 option.
If you really want to go 'woosh', keep the Beetle stock and go buy a VW Golf Mk3 GL ('95-98) - you can pick them up for around $6K or less now.
They came with the Euro spec 2.0-litre 95 kW GTI engine, so they are fast. Plus they come with all the mod cons like 5-speed box, modern suspension
and brakes, safety body shell, air-bags, air-con etc etc that a 'Subi' modified Beetle could never have unless you pay at least ten times more (if
at all).
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polak
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 08:27 AM |
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hey, my 1776 long block, flywheel, clutch and with 1300 miles on it is available..... from head to head everything was brand new when i built it
except for the crank and rods which were only first grind.... have dyno sheets to prove its power and with a shit tune it made 74.8bhp at the wheels
which in a few cases made more than quite a few 1916's iv seen.....$3500 just throw on ur carbs and ignition.... if interested call me on
0401554049.... cheers adam
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ian.mezz
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 10:06 AM |
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we did two ej20t and they cost between $4000 and $5000
with custom exhaust and radiators includes engineers report . they have both been going good for a year now .
in car from wrx bug
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11-HA7txWno&feature=related
.
the VWs with more then 90hp subaru powered
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Q_hJU9pd3A&feature=related
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NuZo
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 07:21 PM |
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wow ian, how did u manage an ej20t for 4-5k? is that including mechanic labor? or did you do alot of it yourself?
wow i always thought they were up in the 10k mark!!!
also polak! i might be interested, but only if they come with carbs? as i only have a stock 1500cc.
Cheers all for your replies!
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ian.mezz
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 07:56 PM |
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grinders are cheap
just cut it out and buy a kit and it bolts in, Easy , 
we got our half subaru for $1300
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 07:58 PM |
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hey ian, do you feel like doin another conversion, jsut asking?
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Joel
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 08:01 PM |
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ask him later hes run out of zipties and electrical tape
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 08:03 PM |
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okay, will do, i could shout some but.
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ian.mezz
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 08:06 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
ask him later hes run out of zipties and electrical tape
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no I haven't smarty pants I went to the hardware shop yesterday huh
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Joel
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 08:10 PM |
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hmmmph trying to outclass my crazy clarkes ones huh?
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NuZo
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posted on November 30th, 2009 at 10:17 PM |
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ian, what did u do about the FI and such?
how about the exhaust?
i cant fabricate anything, and my best tool collection is the tool kit out of my aprilia RS125!! lol... and i shit you not!
so pretty much, it would cost be a bucket load?
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ian.mezz
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posted on December 1st, 2009 at 07:19 AM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by NuZo
ian, what did u do about the FI and such?
how about the exhaust?
i cant fabricate anything, and my best tool collection is the tool kit out of my aprilia RS125!! lol... and i shit you not!
so pretty much, it would cost be a bucket load?
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as I said custom exhaust and radiators ,we cut and fitted motor ourselfs and a mate helpd with loom, we didnt go for bling and fancy stuff like Joel
 
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Joel
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posted on December 1st, 2009 at 07:40 PM |
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pffft bling is the new ratlook
Quote: | Originally
posted by NuZo
wow ian, how did u manage an ej20t for 4-5k? is that including mechanic labor? or did you do alot of it yourself?
wow i always thought they were up in the 10k mark!!!
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they are around the 10k mark
a gearbox that will stay in one piece with that sorta power isnt cheap
josh and ian have stock boxes and drive like a pair of old wimmen
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ian.mezz
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posted on December 1st, 2009 at 08:49 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
pffft bling is the new ratlook
Quote: | Originally
posted by NuZo
wow ian, how did u manage an ej20t for 4-5k? is that including mechanic labor? or did you do alot of it yourself?
wow i always thought they were up in the 10k mark!!!
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they are around the 10k mark
a gearbox that will stay in one piece with that sorta power isnt cheap
josh and ian have stock boxes and drive like a pair of old wimmen
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gear box $50 or 10 for a $500
like I saID you don't need all that fancy stuff
young josh's car does low 8s over the 1/8 mile and there isn't a day where when he leaves my place he doesn't spin his wheels 1300 swing axle box 215 hp
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Joel
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posted on December 1st, 2009 at 09:12 PM |
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i never said grannys dont spin the wheels 
havent u seen topgear? they do mean scandanavian flicks to
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trickysimon
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posted on December 1st, 2009 at 09:22 PM |
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Btw: You didnt drop off a VWMA to Hunter VW recently Ian, did you?
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coletrickle
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posted on December 1st, 2009 at 09:35 PM |
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My 2 cents worth if you want a faster than stock beetle build something you can afford to fix yourself if it brakes.I was in a similar back in 1993
and it started with the complete idiots guide to vws a pile of tools and a pile of 2nd handnew bits to build a 12001376 40 horse with ported heads
made 55hp@wheels .I"m now driving a 2332 w 48 idas built cr box and 140hp@w its a lot of fun and pretty quick for a daily driver on 91 octane.But
grins per dollar and sheer thrashabillity the 1376 wins hands down it's still out on the shelves i think i might dust it off and give it a freshen
up.I seriously think a lot of people build cars purely based on how it's gonna read in a magazine spend heaps of coin then find out that the end
result isn't what they expected!
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ian.mezz
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posted on December 2nd, 2009 at 01:09 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by trickysimon


Btw: You didnt drop off a VWMA to Hunter VW recently Ian, did you?
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WHY
YES i did .
I give free stuff out all the time.
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polak
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posted on December 2nd, 2009 at 02:16 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by NuZo
wow ian, how did u manage an ej20t for 4-5k? is that including mechanic labor? or did you do alot of it yourself?
wow i always thought they were up in the 10k mark!!!
also polak! i might be interested, but only if they come with carbs? as i only have a stock 1500cc.
Cheers all for your replies!
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hey, i can help out with dissy, coil and leads but i dont have a spare et of carbs and need mine for my new motor, plus they are too big. (thats y it
was running a shit tune... lol) but i may be able to chase some up for you if needed. cheers adam
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STIDUB
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posted on December 2nd, 2009 at 03:58 PM |
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fun & cheap - 1600TP
worth looking into - 2L Type IV (check costs of tinware and bits & peices though) theres a build thread with a nice 2L in a bug on here
somewhere....
costly if done RIGHT - EJ20T
alternative - EJ22 - see joels thread
if your going for more power, admit it your going to want to use it ALL, so factor in brakes, suspension & gearbox work.
actually that should be regardless, make it stop & steer before making it go more
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STIDUB - yep its still a work in progress
Vwdcq club car racing/ and crashing while my bug isn't finished.
The above are personal views, no more, no less
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colonel mustard
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posted on December 2nd, 2009 at 04:18 PM |
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I think you need at least front disc brakes if you want to go 1916. Rears would be good, but not essential. I dont think watercooled conversions are a
walk in the park... but it just depends what your really after. im hoping to go for 1916 for a while when i can afford it, why, because its a stepping
stone. I realise that oneday, i may want to go EJ20... but not straight up. looking at what Dave (stidub) has done (and spent), its just too much in
one hit for me.
realistically, you wont get a decent 1600 for $1k. but, a 1916 will cost you at least $5k...
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trickysimon
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posted on December 2nd, 2009 at 04:34 PM |
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Quote: | Originally
posted by ian.mezz
Quote: | Originally
posted by trickysimon
Btw: You didnt drop off a VWMA to Hunter VW recently Ian, did you?
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WHY
YES i did .
I give free stuff out all the time.
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One of my mates is an apprentice mechanic there
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DylanTheDubber
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posted on December 2nd, 2009 at 06:36 PM |
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Stand by your bug. The one thing you will regret is getting rid of it. My dad made that decision and now me and him wish we had a vw still. Hang in
there a motor will come up and you will get it fixed. just hang in there.
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NuZo
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posted on December 4th, 2009 at 12:38 AM |
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haha dylan, thank you for the words man!!
i have thought about getting rid of it, but like i said b4, i cant do it, i love it too much...
it would be like giving up one of my limbs!!!!
im just stumped man, i want it to work, but im really REALLY sick of the stock 1500. i ride bikes now and my Aprilia RS125 eats it for a snack!!
to be honest tho, its not just speed, but more tourqe, thing that used to piss me right off the wall was not being able to gain speed up even the
slightest hill.
i understand the gear ratio's arnt perfect, but its almost dangerous when a big old 4wd comes speeding up ur ass, and i cant do anything about
it!!
ej20T is by all means, the Most exe option, and yes, all breaks and suspension work will be done, this is standard, im not a lunatic!(much)
just want prices of pure engine's nothing more.
another thing is, my beetle has a fair amount of cosmetic damage on it. so, as much as i love it, the only way to fix most of that crap is for a full
respray, which for me would be another, 3k ontop!... my pockets are only so big!!
i think my most viable option lies somewhere in the 1776-1916 mark wheer its still air cooled, still easily worked on and no massive modifications.
polk, i'd very much appreciate if u email'd me @ n.nuzie@gmail.com to continue discussion of your 1776 
Thank you all! i love you all! man i hope to get this shit running soon! iv been beetleless for almost 9 months!!!

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NuZo
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posted on December 4th, 2009 at 09:06 AM |
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also! how hard is it to change an accelerator cable?
is it worth trying myself? or getting a pro to do it?
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71-BEETLE-SEDAN
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posted on December 4th, 2009 at 09:11 AM |
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Accelerator cable, easy as. took me five mins. All you gotta do is old one out and slide tyhe new one in from the inside of the car. Wear gloves to
pull old one out but.
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NuZo
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posted on December 4th, 2009 at 09:33 AM |
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what do u mean? like, use the old cable as a guide for the new one? or completely remove it first, then put the new one in?
i read somewhere that you have to take the rear left wheel off? is this true?
cheers for the quick reply mate
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