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Author: Subject:  not so new - electrical problems II
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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 02:27 PM
not so new - electrical problems II


Have bought and fitted new coil, dizzy (with rotor, cap, points & condensor), leads and plugs and still not able to start car. When testing spark from coil it seems very week and testing voltage across terminals I get approx 11.6volts. Should I be getting a lot more than this and if so what could be causing the problem?



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 04:48 PM



why are you saying the spark is weak, how are you testing it.

when you say voltage across terminals is 11.6 is that on the battery.




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 05:00 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
why are you saying the spark is weak, how are you testing it.

when you say voltage across terminals is 11.6 is that on the battery.


Spark is hardly noticable when you disconnect lead from distributor and test it upto an earthon the motor.

Voltage is across terminals of the coil
Thanks




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question.gif posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 05:20 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by baghall
Have bought and fitted new coil, dizzy (with rotor, cap, points & condensor), leads and plugs and still not able to start car. When testing spark from coil it seems very week and testing voltage across terminals I get approx 11.6volts. Should I be getting a lot more than this and if so what could be causing the problem?


Sounds like a battery problem..
or Your ignition switch is badly worn in the contacts

LEE



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 05:20 PM



testing voltage across coil tells you nothing about what going on.

if you have weak spark on a lead it could be many things you will need to start with the basics.

1. check battery terminals, all connections clean and good voltage. check the earth cables for corrosion both ends.
2. check voltage of battery then check voltage at coil, from positive terminal to earth should match battery voltage if not the problem will be in that cable.


give this ago and see what results you get if this checks ok then you have to check if the new parts you are correct or not.




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 05:39 PM



Thanks Lee
Battery is dropping to about 11.6volts when cranking so I assume that it must be the ignition switch. How do I connect a relay in as you suggested earlier.
Thanks again

Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by baghall
Have bought and fitted new coil, dizzy (with rotor, cap, points & condensor), leads and plugs and still not able to start car. When testing spark from coil it seems very week and testing voltage across terminals I get approx 11.6volts. Should I be getting a lot more than this and if so what could be causing the problem?


Sounds like a battery problem..
or Your ignition switch is badly worn in the contacts

LEE



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 06:11 PM



Thanks Thinker,
Voltage is same from coil to earth as for across battery terminals 11.6 when cranking.

Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
testing voltage across coil tells you nothing about what going on.

if you have weak spark on a lead it could be many things you will need to start with the basics.

1. check battery terminals, all connections clean and good voltage. check the earth cables for corrosion both ends.
2. check voltage of battery then check voltage at coil, from positive terminal to earth should match battery voltage if not the problem will be in that cable.


give this ago and see what results you get if this checks ok then you have to check if the new parts you are correct or not.




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 06:19 PM



what is voltage no load.



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 07:21 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
what is voltage no load.


across battery 13.96
coil to earth 12.05




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 07:28 PM



11 volts is good, a car can start with 9volts and a bit less.



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 07:46 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by baghall
Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
what is voltage no load.


across battery 13.96
coil to earth 12.05


well you have got a bit of voltage drop which could be the age of the wires but enough for spark.that rules out the old stuff.

next is to check coil, it should be ok if it is new.
take the high tension lead that runs from coil to dizzy. remove it from dizzy and hold lead 1/2 inch from engine block and get someone to crank motor, spark should jump the jump the 1/2 inch gap. if not the coil is the problem.




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 07:49 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
11 volts is good, a car can start with 9volts and a bit less.


Thats what I thought till I meet this car! HaHa aaaaaaaaaaaa




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 08:19 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
Quote:
Originally posted by baghall
Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
what is voltage no load.


across battery 13.96
coil to earth 12.05


well you have got a bit of voltage drop which could be the age of the wires but enough for spark.that rules out the old stuff.

next is to check coil, it should be ok if it is new.
take the high tension lead that runs from coil to dizzy. remove it from dizzy and hold lead 1/2 inch from engine block and get someone to crank motor, spark should jump the jump the 1/2 inch gap. if not the coil is the problem.


Well going on your advice here I have to assume that I bought a dud coil. Talk about bad luck. Will be trrying some more tests tommorrow in case I have got it wrong, but if coil dead I guess I'll have to take it back.




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 08:22 PM



where did you get all your parts from



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 08:30 PM



just a thought have got the power lead to coil on the plug marked 15 i think and the condenser lead to the plug marked 1.

if the car has been running if so try the old coil.

also i am assuming that you have set point gap correct and condenser is connect correctly




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 08:31 PM



a spark should only jump about 8ml
Do you have fuel??
with all this not starting and if you have fuel you may have to much fuel on the spark plugs???now.
whack the old coil back on.




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 08:36 PM



Will check suggestions tommorrow as neihbours may complain if I begin working again now.
Thanks again!




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 09:00 PM



I will post you a box of matches that will fix it .:lol:



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 09:03 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by ian.mezz
I will post you a box of matches that will fix it .:lol:

the old man told me long ago all you need in a tool box is wd40, duct tape and matches.
the wd40 for things that should move but dont.
the tape for things that shouldnt move but do.
and the matches to solve any problems that the first two dont fix.




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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 09:13 PM



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posted on April 2nd, 2010 at 11:04 PM



Aw guys I still love my car. I miss drivin it.



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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 12:38 PM



I am now out of ideas.
Tested everything still not firing. I give up. I guess it's time to get a mechanic or auto electrician to look at it.
Bloody annoying!:
mad:




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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 01:21 PM



what type of coil did you get.

what is your points gap set at.




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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 02:16 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
what type of coil did you get.

what is your points gap set at.


coil is a GT40, points gap is .016"

However I found that the negative terminal of the coil has power to it when on the postive terminal has power connected to it. Is this normal?




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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 02:25 PM



you will get voltage as the points open and it will go when the points close.

if you have voltage all the time you hav a short in the dizzy some where.




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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 04:09 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Thinker
you will get voltage as the points open and it will go when the points close.

if you have voltage all the time you hav a short in the dizzy some where.


Ok, no short in the dizzy which is good news, bad news still no idea of whats wrong, and all is shut in Penrith till Tuesday.




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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 04:27 PM



next thing is to see if timing is right.

with your multi meter on the coil connect to the line that gos to dizzy as you turn the motor over by hand at top dead centre on number one cyclinder your multi should show voltage as you get to first timing make 7.5 degrees before TDC.


after that check the leads are in correct order

no 1 lead should be roughly at the 4 oclock mark when looking down on dizzy
then in a clock wise direction no 4, no 3 and no 2.


good luck




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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 05:48 PM



Isn't there anyone down your way that can call in and see what's going on. Surely there's someone on here that lives close by that could call in and help your out. It's probably something real simple.:lol::lol:
hope you get it sorted soon.




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posted on April 3rd, 2010 at 07:46 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by rose
Isn't there anyone down your way that can call in and see what's going on. Surely there's someone on here that lives close by that could call in and help your out. It's probably something real simple.:lol::lol:
hope you get it sorted soon.


The mechanics that I know are closed and some won't talk about cars with you unless you are at their shop. It is a very different world down here compared to Newcastle. We only just got 24 hour shopping and at Kmart only.
Thbaks for the concern.




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posted on April 16th, 2010 at 08:39 AM



Hi
reading your posts and I had a similiar problem. Bought a complete new dizzy, the car started perfect a few times then nothing. Found the new condenser was shot. Maybe worth a try......


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