| [ Total Views: 811 | Total Replies: 19 | Thread Id: 83075 ] |
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 bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 10:15 AM |
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Extractors and Heater Boxes? Are J-tubes necessary?
Are heater boxes and some extractors mutually exclusive?
I see qute a few beetles with extractors and J tubes. This is a bit of a turn-off, as I want a working heater. (Besides, it's a requirement for an
RWC after 1971.)
What do people with J-tubes do for a heater? Put on another jumper and suffer the cold? Fit electric units?
Is it a major bummer to replace the J-tubes with heater boxes and associated pipework?
Thanks again,
Brett 
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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 Bizarre
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 10:49 AM |
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I am running heater boxes on my 1916
J tubes are required when larger than stock exhaust is used.
BIG motors.
Now though - you can buy big bore heater boxes.
That said - they aint cheap.
Even good stock heater boxes ain cheap. I have gone to the trouble of ceramic coating mine to last.
Most people with motors of decent size dont care about heater boxes
Futue te ipsum!!!
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beetleboyjeff
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 12:57 PM |
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I am running heater boxes on my 1916 also. I think you have to go quite big in engine size to need bigger diameter exhausts - so J-tubes.
From your ole' mate Jeff
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Joel
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 01:05 PM |
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most parts of aus dont even need heaters
i had working ones in my bug for years and swapped them out for Jpipes cos i just never used them
it can be for other reasons, once they start rotting out and leaking fumes into the car, new ones are BIG $$ if u can find them and good 2nd hand ones
can be hard to find where as Jpipes are cheap as and every vw place carries them
it can be a weight saving thing too, the earlier ones with the alloy fins inside are bloody heavy. all my late 70s bugs though havent had that kind,
just Jpipes with a shell around them
also if you run a 36hp fan shroud for twin carb clearance you cant run heaterboxes. even when the heaters are off they need airflow through them to
stop them getting to hot and cooking the heads
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Bizarre
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 01:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
even when the heaters are off they need airflow through them to stop them getting to hot and cooking the heads
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a point a lot of people dont understand
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Joel
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 01:14 PM |
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tell me about it, the amount of bugs and upright kombis i see with the shroud heater outlets plugged off cos the owner "thinks" they're improving
cooling 
its fine to block them off if you have Jpipes but not when the heaterboxes are still there
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 01:37 PM |
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Thanks again for the prompt replies. 
The Beetle I buy will be used daily and my missus will occasionally drive it (when I need the Pathfinder for towing etc).
SWMBO will not be happy with a non-working heater. Besides which, a working demister is required for an RWC in Victoria after 71(?) and very few
Beetles for sale out there come with a current RWC, without a huge pricetag attached.
Getting an RWC is usually a painful process where they pick on the most stupid, small things, like no demisters.
Unless one knows a friendly RWC inspector? 
This one Super for sale not far from me is running Kadrons, extractors, a 009 and electronic ignition already. But the lack of heater boxes, and lack
of choke on the Kadrons means it's probably not the best choice for a daily. Melbourne winters can be quite cold.
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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Bizarre
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 01:53 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bnicho
and lack of choke on the Kadrons means it's probably not the best choice for a daily. Melbourne winters can be quite cold.
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not true
The shorter manifolds stops fuel condensing
Many people run Webers, Dells, kads etc and have no chokes
Futue te ipsum!!!
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 12th, 2010 at 02:42 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
not true
The shorter manifolds stops fuel condensing
Many people run Webers, Dells, kads etc and have no chokes
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Oh, okay, didn't think of that! My Corona GT Coupe has factory twin side-draught solexes (similar to DCOE Webers) and it's a pig to start when cold
without using the manual choke. Then it spits and farts for a few minutes before it will run smoothly.
What are Kads on a Beetle like for starting and idling when cold? Do they go out of sync easily?
Here's the seller's photo of the engine, if that helps:
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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SuperOwen
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 12:00 PM |
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If properly jetted tuned and synced you will be pretty happy with kadrons. I had twin solexes with the electric chokes and the differences werent that
noticable except I think the kadrons went better!
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colonel mustard
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 12:03 PM |
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they stay in sync very well.
starting is a bit harder than stock, but if you want more guts, you have to comprimise somewhere unless you go for injection...
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 12:35 PM |
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Hi,
We are getting OT a bit, maybe I should start a new thread?
I like the idea of a little more grunt. I also like the idea that it gives me a base to work from if I want to buiild/fit a better engine later (1916
with a little cam etc). Hell, I might even take it to a few Autocross or Motorkhanas as is.
I don't want to annoy the neighbours (or SWMBO) every weekday at 6am starting the bug and revving it to keep it running until it warms up. Assuming
it's properly jetted and tuned of course. But if it's just a case of giving it a couple of pumps while turning it over to get it going, then fine.
I've read the various threads on Kadrons on this site and looked at a few links in them as well. The Kadrons seem easy to tune, but I see some
complaints about the linkages? Is it possible to tell if the linkages on this car are the crap ones?
I don't know who fitted these Kadrons, so they might be a "bung em on and hope" effort from a backyarder. I think I'd prefer a Weber or two
anyway, as I have more experience with them.
Anyway, I hope to talk to the guy today and possibly look at the car on Sunday. I've already lined up to look at a 74 L near Bendigo on Saturday.
The L is bog stock but the asking price is almost a grand cheaper and it looks tidier in the photos.
At the moment the focus is getting a tidyish, reliable, rust-free-ish bug that I can use daily with minimal upfront hassles. If it has a few
performance bits fitted, that's a nice bonus, but not essential at this stage. Half the fun of buying is the looking and thinking!
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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colonel mustard
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 12:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bnicho
I don't want to annoy the neighbours (or SWMBO) every weekday at 6am starting the bug and revving it to keep it running until it warms up.
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well maybe your looking at the wrong car/mods.
and you do live in a cooler part of australia... it will need a bit to warm.
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colonel mustard
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 12:46 PM |
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links for the L bug (the best beetle made..) in BGO? where abouts in bendigo are you meeting....(thats where im from!)
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 01:52 PM |
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Part of the justification to SWMBO for buying a bug is that I can use it as a daily. So it has to be reasonably winter friendly.
Do you live in Bendigo now Colonel? Not sure I should post up the link, you might beat me to it. This one is Mustard too. 
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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colonel mustard
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 04:30 PM |
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Nah mate, not for about 15 years. Live in Brisbane now. I wont beat you to it, i cant even keep my up to date. Supers are sweet man, a great choice.
im proabably not the best person to ask about how they operate in winter there, but the intake manifold needs to be warm, hence why these cars were
designed with heat risers.
good luck with it mate.
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 05:01 PM |
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Thanks.
Some nice pics
The NOT SO GOOD! 
This car is exactly the same age as me. It was complianced the same month and year I was born. 
There is also a white 73 L for sale in the next suburb. I'll probably check that one out too before I buy one.
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on April 16th, 2010 at 07:04 AM |
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Basically a very nice Superbug! It's great to see one still in standard condition.
The body rust is the biggest problem, and needs to be fixed before it gets any worse. If it was my car, I would pull all the windows out at the same
time to make the repairs and repainting easier and more thorough, then the roof lining could be renewed at the same time. Any good motor trimmer could
do that, as well as recover those seats in new black vinyl. It's a reasonably big job, but better to do it now than in a few years time when it will
be a much bigger job.
I'd leave it mechanically stock, the way VW intended it to be. Who cares about more power - stock Supers are great around town and easily do the
speed limit. And everything will work properly.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on April 16th, 2010 at 01:16 PM |
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Hi
To get around the WRC you could hook up 12 volt hair dryers under the back seat.
I often see cars for sale in Victoria that dont come with a RWC, do you need a RWC every year in Victoria?
I have twin Dells on a 1904 cc 1303, it runs sweet after about 10 seconds from cold.
Steve
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 16th, 2010 at 01:37 PM |
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Hi,
The rust is my main worry. I don't know whether I'd attend to the headliner straight away or not. Any ideas how much a headliner replacement
costs these days?
I actually have a pair of small 12v heaters I bought to use in the Moke, but never fitted. They are about 25mm by 100m so may be okay as demisters
potentially. But I'm not sure hwo many amps they draw, would need to test them.
We don't have an annual RWC in VIC but you have to get one to transfer a registered vehicle older than 3 years, unless it's to immediate family.
Officially the seller has to either:
a) cancel the rego and hand in the plates.
b) provide a current RWC.
There is a loophole I have used before though, that gives the buyer breathing space to get an RWC if the car still has rego. Essentially you send off
the transfer forms with a cheque for the fees and "forget" to put the RWC in the envelope. VicRoads then sends the buyer a nice letter telling you
that you have 30 days to send them an RWC of they will cancel the registration.
Most sellers can't be bothered getting an RWC as it's usually difficult. I've had some bad experiences with cars failed on the stupidest of things
over the years. 
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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