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posted on May 9th, 2010 at 09:08 PM
what's involved?
I'm thinking of lifting my buggy in preparation for a road trip, at the moment it's dropped nice and low, thats the way it was when I bought it and
I am keen to return it back to where it is now after the trip, just thinking that it may be more practical as I'm not sure what sort of road
conditions I will face, (not intending going off road) so here's the questions......
1. Roughly how long would it take seeing as I have never done this before?
2. Will it improve the ride noticably, at the moment it's pretty rough?
3. Will I need to change the shocks?
4. Will I need to give it a new wheel alignment?
5. Do I need any special tools?
6. Is it a one man job?
Thanks
Don
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bajachris88
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posted on May 9th, 2010 at 10:57 PM
Hi, Don, so we just talking a torsion bar adjustment of the rear? if its a swing axle... by raising the rear... positive camber can make the rear end
a bit more unpredictable with bouncing and rebounding around on the dirt. None the less... take it easy and get a feel for it... Either way its been
done and teh systems been raced and proven through the baja desert , so
don't stress. but yea,
1) can do in couple hrs and can be a one man job. Just take caution. the torsion bar is under alot of stress... you gotta be careful. I got 7 stitches
from trying to do it back up after pulling it apart. (although not directly related to the tension causing it, but non the less resulted in the floor
pan 'splatting' the right index finger flat... fun fun)
2) need a jack, bit of chain, socket set and maybe a pri bar or large flat head. (nuffin special)
3) no need for change in shocks, if urs still work, they will do. note that by increasing the preload on ur rear torsion bars for greater height will
'stiffen' them up, it will be a harder ride. so don't be suprised if u feel little pebbles on the road lol. no new parts needed, BUT! in the
process you will be in direct contact with ur rear inner and outter torsion bars (SORRY i meant bushes... typo (10/5/10)), and if they are worn, you
would be silly to pass up the opportunity to change them while u went ot the effort of pulling it apart.
4) Will need alignment of rear unless you mark where the rear hub carrier is along the spring plate. the holes for the bolts mounting the spring plate
to the rear hub carrier are slightly elongated to allow the rear hub carriers to be moved closer or further up the spring plate for wheel alignment
purposes. so mark at precise measure as precise as you can so you don't have to stress.
Heres the how to, or consult the Jeff Hibbard how to baja book. too much effort for me to write lol.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 05:04 AM
Thanks Chris, I'll do both front and rear if I go ahead with it, as I read your advise lifting it will make the ride harder, not sure that's what i
want, I thought by lifting it back to closer to standard suspension height I would get a "softer" ride, the way it is at the moment the only way I
get any improvement is by lowering the tyre pressure, I have driven it on the road down as low as 9psi but thats probably a bit low for a long trip.
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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posted on May 10th, 2010 at 08:46 AM
Lifting shouldn't make it harder unless you go way up, it's probably a harsh ride now due to very small or no travel before the suspension hits the
bump stops or the shocks are incorrect for their use.
Always do a wheel alignment after any suspension adjustments, even the rear, marking the spring plates could be ok IF you know it's been aligned
already AND it's within spec.
How long and tools ???? how fast do you work and what tools do you own ????
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