| [ Total Views: 1230 | Total Replies: 7 | Thread Id: 85746 ] |
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 Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on September 1st, 2010 at 09:02 PM |
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Kafer Bar / Torque Bar
Hi All,
The Kafer / Torque type bars that run over the top of the GBox and to and from the front and rear of the frame horns for strength / supprot...
Do they need to be adjustable or can i simply weld in a bar arrangemnet that triangulates and strengthens???
http://cal-look.no/lounge/index.php?PHPSESSID=876b7a5912bef283e93e85800e7f85a...
Plenty of different versions around... (yes i know craigs kit is excellent and easy to use)
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Aussie Dubbin
Fahrvergnugen
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 10:45 AM |
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bump
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vassy66T1
A.k.a.: Marcus Vass
Veteran Volks Folk
Wow ... are U reading this?
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 11:34 AM |
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Make it easy and use the kit. 
I do think it is important to be able to adjust the tension/load that the bars exert.
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BeetleBug
Casual Dubber
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| posted on September 2nd, 2010 at 05:47 PM |
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Here is my 2 cents, I`m currently using the truss bar from Bug Pack (ref the link above) but I have modified it by adding a chromoly tube over the top
tube because it bends when you tighten the truss bar. Other than that it fits perfectly fine and there is no need to cut the car. No wheel hop, 371
WHP turbo/efi.
Best rgs
BB
Norway
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on September 3rd, 2010 at 07:27 PM |
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Aussie
The adjustability is mainly there to make it easy to install, not all VWs are the same size and shape, there were broad manufacturing tolerances,
especially 40 or 50 years ago. You could make them with no adjustment to suite your car. There is a need to be able to remove the rear braces to get
a swing axle gearbox in. Then the top bars must be removed because it mounts to the shock bolt, which needs to be removable so the shock and the body
can come off. The position also relies on the length of the shock bush etc. You could make them fixed, but they must be removable. The shock bolt
is the best place to mount them because that’s where the action is, at the top of the shock. Just as the further out the fork you can get the
better. That one in the pictures that’s all in front of axle tubes and under the shock mount so it clears the body would not be as good. That’s
why it’s so heavy duty but stil it would felx the shock towers and forks out past the brace.
I was interested to see that one that used Heim joints on the top bar, and then has brackets from that bar to the rear with Heim joints again. The
top bar would be free to move. Seems to me that would tramp like a brass band. Who knows? Good luck with it, Nothing’s impossible.
Cheers
Tony
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13bwagon
Officially Full-On Dubber
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| posted on September 3rd, 2010 at 07:37 PM |
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yup what he said
if you have the pan off just make a nice setup and weld it up
BUY A REAL BUG A PRE S BUG...
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Hutcho
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on September 9th, 2010 at 08:48 PM |
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Does anyone else in Australia make these bars or anything else that will strenthen the rear? I've asked Craig but he has none available at the
moment..
I'm also after a Rhino trans kit and a HD trans cradle..
Sorry to hijack but didn't want to create similar thread...
Cheers,
Steve
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Gracey
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on September 10th, 2010 at 04:23 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by BeetleBug
Here is my 2 cents, I`m currently using the truss bar from Bug Pack (ref the link above) but I have modified it by adding a chromoly tube over the top
tube because it bends when you tighten the truss bar. Other than that it fits perfectly fine and there is no need to cut the car. No wheel hop, 371
WHP turbo/efi.
Best rgs
BB
Norway
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Hey BB,
How did you add a chromoly tube over the top tube?
Did you cut the tabs off and then re-weld them back on?
Andrew
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