| [ Total Views: 815 | Total Replies: 14 | Thread Id: 87072 ] |
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 bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on November 9th, 2010 at 06:42 PM |
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Does anyone ever seam weld the chassis rear forks for strength?
Or would it just weaken them with the heat treatment imposed by the welder?
Because if i remember right ,they are only spot welded aren't they...
regards,
Christopher.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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Birdman
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| posted on November 9th, 2010 at 06:49 PM |
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I have read about people doing it and have also seen plating kits to box them up but I would also be interested in hearing of some practical
experience?
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Newt
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| posted on November 9th, 2010 at 08:14 PM |
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Would you stitch weld them if you were going to do it?
Newt
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Craig Torrens
A.k.a.: Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 9th, 2010 at 08:14 PM |
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yep I seam weld mine.............and then use a K Bar kit for support.
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OZ Towdster
A.k.a.: Andrew Westwood
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| posted on November 9th, 2010 at 08:23 PM |
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Chris yes it is a good idea and i would add the benefit of K bar or as a Baja just build it into a good engine cage to support the forks from trying
to torque down
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
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vlad01
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| posted on November 9th, 2010 at 08:28 PM |
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yep its a good idea. I plan to do mine as soon as i can fine a dam swing axle type 3 sub frame so I can haz some frame horns in the first place. 
i also going to tig all the seams in the rear end of the body around where the sub frame bolts on.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Newt
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| posted on November 10th, 2010 at 11:01 PM |
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As a thought, when you seam weld them- do you end up buring the paint off the inside and open the way to rusting?
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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vlad01
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| posted on November 11th, 2010 at 07:00 AM |
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depend on how much heat you use. If you are any good with tig, then should be no problem at all. Most newer tigs have a pulse setting which is for
heat control.
Pulse is a no brainer setting for those who aren't skilled enough yet to take full advantage of the slope up/down feature.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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Aussie Dubbin
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| posted on November 11th, 2010 at 07:46 AM |
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While you're welding ive heard its a good idea to weld all seams that you can find. tunnel, frame horn, etc
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bajachris88
A.k.a.: Chris Leete
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| posted on November 11th, 2010 at 08:09 AM |
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Thanks for all the help guys
At the moment its only me and my trusty arc... the Mig needs to go in for a service.
That'll do  .
I'll park it on a slope and put a few litres unscented fish oil in there lol...
Thats if there really is... an 'unscented' fish oil.
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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 matberry
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| posted on November 11th, 2010 at 08:12 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Newt
As a thought, when you seam weld them- do you end up buring the paint off the inside and open the way to rusting?
Newt
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You betcha
This has got to be the biggest car killer out there, even with a pro job, it is often left bare metal behind the repair or welding job, and yep....it
rust's like a beauty!!!!
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Newt
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| posted on November 12th, 2010 at 01:11 AM |
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I guess the same would apply if you were plug welding on new pan halve's
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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matberry
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| posted on November 12th, 2010 at 08:40 AM |
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Yeah Newt, plug weldind pan 1/2's or any spot weld type repair has it's own set of issues. To get a decent weld, both surfaces need to be clean bare
metal, then when fitted together, there is an area between the two panels where rust can't help but form, two panels of bare metal touching each
other and definately open to air and moisture. The only options are protect the metal with weld through primer before welding, seal the join after
welding and using a non hardening, capillary acting rust preventative to get into the area, even where you can't see, I do all three on my jobs......
I hate rust and I dislike repairing it, but even worse, I hate repairing it where it's been repaired before.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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Newt
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| posted on November 13th, 2010 at 12:41 AM |
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Matt
Ever use penetrol to get into those nooks and cranies?
Cheers
Newt
It is as it is - If you didnt enjoy today, you've missed the opportunity.
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matberry
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| posted on November 13th, 2010 at 08:19 AM |
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Not personally Newt, I think it may set (dry and not stay liquid).
My fav is a home brew, 60/30/10, fisholene/new engine oil/diesel.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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