| [ Total Views: 841 | Total Replies: 13 | Thread Id: 87300 ] |
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 alansvw
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| posted on November 24th, 2010 at 09:41 AM |
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VDO Gauges to install
I need some gauges connected ,oil temp, cylinder head and boost gauge. Anyone recommend somewhere in Sydney that knows what they are doing and does a
good job ?
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ryana89
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| posted on November 24th, 2010 at 07:49 PM |
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You already have the gauges and sender units?
Wiring them isn't hard, if they're electronic gauges then all you have is a Power (+) wire, Ground (-) wire and a Signal wire (s).
If you can cut wire and use a crimper you're set.
2.0slow 92 MK2
Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia
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vlad01
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| posted on November 24th, 2010 at 08:40 PM |
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don't crimp  solder and heat shink 
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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 barls
A.k.a.: Mr indestructible
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| posted on November 24th, 2010 at 08:47 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
don't crimp solder and heat shink
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depends on your level of soldering. if your great solder, if not crimp. its not going to have that much effect.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on November 24th, 2010 at 11:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by alansvw
I need some gauges connected ,oil temp, cylinder head and boost gauge. Anyone recommend somewhere in Sydney that knows what they are doing and does a
good job ?
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Hi Alan,
post a pic of them front and rear on here...
and someone is sure to show You what to do...
cheers
LEE
if You are a a member of clubveedub in Sydney
someone should be able to help You do it... Lee
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- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on November 25th, 2010 at 12:04 AM |
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Hi
If your going to crimp buy the correct ratcheting crimp tool, nothing wrong with connections made with them.
Steve
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on November 25th, 2010 at 04:17 PM |
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Yes,
the $4.99 or $6-99 crimping pliers are rubbish and don't do a good job... they are too thin..
You cannot crimp properly with them..
and You can tell when a crimp has been made with those cheapies....
You can get GOOD Crimping pliers that only crimp..
with a nice wide crimp.... EXCELLENT..
or the crimping pliers that also strip the plastic off the wires...
both these are sold at Dick Smiths... or JAYCAR
I was cutting a wire off with the crimp/stripping tool last week when one of My fingers managed to be in the stripper part
it chopped a piece out of My finger besides squashing it......
hurt like hell.... lol
Best to use with one hand ...
and keep Your eyes on the other hand... lol 
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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ryana89
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| posted on November 25th, 2010 at 09:44 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
don't crimp solder and heat shink
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Enlighten me on how to solder these suckers then
Others than that, yes you are correct, solder and heatshrink.
I Crimp, solder and heatshrink when and where I can (obviously an exception above ^)
2.0slow 92 MK2
Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia
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SuperOwen
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| posted on November 25th, 2010 at 09:59 PM |
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Those crimp terminals are fine if you use a decent ratcheting crimper like mentioned above. Should cost $50 dollars or thereabouts from jaycar etc. If
done properly should be superior to a soldered connection, Just pay attention to how much jacket you strip back, part of the crimp should grab the
jacket to bear the load and the other bit the copper.
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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| posted on November 25th, 2010 at 11:39 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ryana89
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
don't crimp solder and heat shink
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Enlighten me on how to solder these suckers then
Others than that, yes you are correct, solder and heatshrink.
I Crimp, solder and heatshrink when and where I can (obviously an exception above ^)
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Well Guys...
I originally rewired My Beetle about 6 years ago...
and I was having problems with the female connectors coming off the male connectors... including the fuse box..
and the female connectors were copper, soldered and heatshrinked
I then found out a few months ago that the female copper bare connectors I was using didn't have anything to keep them on the males....
they were made to push into a plastic plug....
and had a bit to keep them in the plug..
So, I have fitted a new Non VW [push in fuse] FUSE BOX
and are now soldering the wires and using either plastic covered or bare crimp on connectors... which grip onto the male connectors.. so My problems
are finally being fixed...
EXCELLENT..
I can now put things in the boot without turning My headlamps OFF... lol
cheers
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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alansvw
Wolfsburg Wizard
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| posted on November 26th, 2010 at 12:16 AM |
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I will go to my local Dick Smith and get the right gear. thanks for advise. If i still have any issues with connections I'd still like to know a good
electrical shop I could use as backup... my local guy in St Ives is good but never does a clean job and seems to take a lot of shortcuts.
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donn
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| posted on November 26th, 2010 at 04:10 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by alansvw
I will go to my local Dick Smith and get the right gear. thanks for advise. If i still have any issues with connections I'd still like to know a good
electrical shop I could use as backup... my local guy in St Ives is good but never does a clean job and seems to take a lot of shortcuts.
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Then he obviously isn't "good"
I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
Aircooled Master
Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138% - YIKES --
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 posted on November 26th, 2010 at 12:34 PM |
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there are some bad auto electricians...
and some good ones too...
they either know their job... and do a good job...
they also need to respect the car... and not go drilling holes everywhere.. or take shortcuts...
much better to do it Yourself... and do the job You want..
and label the wires ..
I use masking tape and write on it...
Many Beetles from 1968> have some dodgy wiring..
who does this and why...
I don't know....??
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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vlad01
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
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| posted on November 27th, 2010 at 08:33 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by ryana89
| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
don't crimp solder and heat shink
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Enlighten me on how to solder these suckers then
Others than that, yes you are correct, solder and heatshrink.
I Crimp, solder and heatshrink when and where I can (obviously an exception above ^)
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easy. very light touch of solder on cleaned tip of the soldering iron to aid heat transfer. place the tip in the spade end (not where the wire goes)
presuming you all ready have the wire placed in, just let it heat until the solder will melt into the wire end when solder is shoved in. 0.7mm will
take about half an inch to fill it. keep heat until the solder wicks properly and your done. oh and let it cool before you touch it as the terminal
might fall off before the solder solidifies .
oh and this does work a lot better with the spades with insulation around only the crimp part. And if you still want it like that one in the pic but
using the less insulated kind, then heat shrink it after. makes it easier, quicker and becomes insulated like the one pictured.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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