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Author: Subject: Hood Jax
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posted on July 26th, 2003 at 10:47 AM
Hood Jax


A few were interested in waht they were in buy swap and sell.

Here is a pictorial for those interested.

Just more of a Tech point now

This is the hood jax

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posted on July 26th, 2003 at 10:49 AM


pins securing hood for normal operation

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posted on July 26th, 2003 at 10:50 AM


pull the pins and the lid comes off

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posted on July 26th, 2003 at 10:51 AM


install hood jax and pin in place

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posted on July 26th, 2003 at 10:52 AM


re-install hood into second hole

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posted on July 26th, 2003 at 10:53 AM


All done

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posted on July 26th, 2003 at 11:25 AM


What does the threaded rod do and what supports the weight of the decklid ?:o
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posted on July 27th, 2003 at 01:03 PM


You drill a 10mm hole in the U bracket and the threaded rod fits in there and the nut holds it there.

This is what supports the lid.

You cant see the hole on Blue2 cause i havent run the hood jax since Blue1 and i had a hole on them.
I am going to pull the U bracket off Blue1 and spray - just so i dont have a hole in the second one




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posted on July 27th, 2003 at 06:28 PM


those wheels are fooly shick, blue. and i see you have a oil reservoir overflow sump thingy. WHERE FROM? HOW DO I GET ONE!??!?!
need one for valla...
eep.
otherwise it's gonna be a coke bottle or something. running.. out.. of .. time...




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posted on July 27th, 2003 at 08:09 PM


Pete

its a CB Performance

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=241 

picked it up somewhere 2nd hand. They are good!
Dunno if anyone sells them here though.




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posted on July 28th, 2003 at 08:23 AM


ta blue, something else on my shopping list now :D



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posted on August 20th, 2006 at 12:06 PM



Hi folks, I'm just about to pick up another batch of freshly-made Hoodjax so get your orders in for spring/summer!

Lets more air in, makes your car go faster, drops oil temperature, reduces hot-idle stumbles, improves throttle response, makes the lame walk and the blind see!

Thought I'd 'bump' this thread because it's the best at explaining what the Hoodjax device is and how it fits to the rear of Beetles.

$80 plus P&H.


[ Edited on 19-11-2006 by VWCOOL ]




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posted on August 20th, 2006 at 02:03 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Leonard
and i see you have a oil reservoir overflow sump thingy.


Yes,
You have quite a system of breather hoses going to Your air cleaners in the top... [unusual]
I had the aluminium extension and had a hose coming down and up into My dry foam air cleaner
The engine blew oil up the hose into the air cleaner and filled the dry foam up with oil....
did take a while to do it...

So, now I have added a tee piece into My oil breather line
and back to an open breather pipe under the engine..
at first I had a rubber restricter piece on the open breather but oil was still pushed up into the New air cleaner...
not a lot of oil but still an oily vapour, so I've opened up the open breather under the engine and made the inside of the hose going into the air cleaner very small...

Only problem I'm having now, is when I add oil to the engine, because of the tee piece being under the oil filler
most of the oil goes on the ground....
so back to the drawing board....

I did check at the nationals and at Valla/nambucca and most cars only have a small air breather..
on their engines...
Yours is really good...
I presume You don't get any oily vapours in Your air cleaners... or nothing to complain about....as

The large upright reservoir should stop any oil getting blown out I would presume...

LEE



[ Edited on 20-8-2006 by 68AutoBug ]

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posted on September 2nd, 2006 at 07:08 PM



I have always run my valve cover breathers and OEM breather to a central catch tank (with air cleaner attatched) which drains the return oil to the crankcase... usually back via the fuel pump boss, as I run an electric fuel pump..... Never had any issues with vapour coming out the OEM crankcase breather with this arangement.... Any engine that can produce more RPM than a stocker has the potential to create greater crankcase breathing issues and ofcourse older engines start to produce blow-by also... Having an effective crankcase breather stops this phenomenon.... Just DONT plumb it to you carby aircleaners!.... It MUST vent to atmosphere to work effectively.

And I like the Hoodjax.... I have used a similar thing for the past 20 years on various VW's and it works a treat!




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posted on September 2nd, 2006 at 09:26 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by humpty
.... Just DONT plumb it to you carby aircleaners!.... It MUST vent to atmosphere to work effectively.



Hmmmm VW do??

Why wouldnt you put you case under negative pressure ??




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posted on September 2nd, 2006 at 11:23 PM



High reving engines can produce excessively high levels of crankcase pressure... The OEM set-up just can't cope with is.... And most aftermarket carb kits are NOT designed to burn off the extra oil vapour that is pushed their way.... And if you only pass it one side on a twin carb set-up (as I have seen many times), you run the risk of effecting the tune on one side of the engine..... the best option is add more outlet areas (valve covers is the most common area) for the extra crankcase pressure to vent too and feed this to a centralised breather box, which then drains any collected oil back to the crankcase... Its a very common addition to performance vehicles... Infact its in the rules for most motorsport activity I believe...



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posted on September 3rd, 2006 at 09:34 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Bizarre
Quote:
Originally posted by humpty
.... Just DONT plumb it to you carby aircleaners!.... It MUST vent to atmosphere to work effectively.



Hmmmm VW do??

Why wouldnt you put you case under negative pressure ??


Vw engines oil filler has a pipe going under the engine where excess pressure is exited, and a hose coming off the top that goes to the air cleaner, where any fumes are sucked in by the carburetor...
and any bad blowby can go down the pipe ,,
its a very good set up.... as You can add oil and it only goes into the engine, not down the pipe...

Lee




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posted on September 3rd, 2006 at 10:54 AM



Plumbing to carb air cleaners is fine and is in fact required by law. Oil won't get up that high unless you have overfilled your sump and if your engine is getting too much blowby, it's because your rings are stuffed

Anyhow, back on topic, fellers!




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posted on September 3rd, 2006 at 02:45 PM



thats why VW engines were the enemy of the USA pollution laws...
with the engine breather outlet under the engine....
and with no seal on the Crankshaft pulley...
heaps of fumes into the atmosphere..

so pollution is at a maximum
with air cooled VW engines

and yes, I have overfilled My engine a bit...
its hard to judge...
My engine has done less than 1000kms since the engine was overhauled... [10 years ago]

Lee




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posted on September 3rd, 2006 at 09:31 PM



the pipe going down was deleted in mid 73 when alternators started so that only one PCV went to the air cleaner
which makes for a leakier engine from the breather/filler

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j154/Vbug74/filler.jpg

but back on subject its a smart thing to do in summer specially if u have a twinport/doghouse engine in a pre 72 vw
even volkswagen worked out after 12months that 2 decklid vents wasnt enough for the new doghouse cooling system
i see so many bugs with these engines and no decklid vents and the owners dont know why their cars run hotter oil temps
-Joel


[ Edited on 3-9-2006 by DUB74L ]
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posted on September 3rd, 2006 at 10:00 PM



I said crankcase pressure.... NOT excessive engine oil..... Though excessive crankcase pressure can carry oil vapour aswell guys.... thats why high reving engines need improved crankcase breathing.... If you have never experienced the phenomenon, with a big engine, then you are not trying hard enough!...

Some of you guys who are old enough to remember when the BERG's visited these shores, may remember that god damn ugly breather box that Gary made for the Black car when he was staying with Jeff Unwin.... It was massive big white thing that was built to handle the huge amount of crankcase pressure that the BIG engine was creating.... In his early runs at Eastern Creek he had a few oil downs from excessive crankcase pressure.... sure this is an extreme case, but that was one of the reasons Gene Berg developed the 365 style breather/filler for TI engines in the first place.... And that was the type of breather they originally ran on the Black car... But even 365 style breather/filler couldn't cope with the increase in capacity!

Bigger engine + bigger revs=More crankcase pressure....

Result.... Its gotta go somewhere.

Thats why competition engines require more effective crankcase breathers with built in oil vapour traps....




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posted on November 10th, 2006 at 07:17 PM



Nice warm day today... So, who wants some Hoodjax? :bounce

[ Edited on 10-11-2006 by VWCOOL ]




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posted on November 10th, 2006 at 09:16 PM



Nice plug!....

:spin:




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posted on November 17th, 2006 at 04:32 PM
Nice plug - but it worked!


VWCOOL: How would one go about obtaining a set of your hoodjax?

Ta
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rsvdclap.gif posted on November 17th, 2006 at 04:56 PM



Yes,
I agree...
Summer is just about here....
Don't run a closed engine lid....

You will notice the difference...
its amazing really....
All the engine bay is cooler,, much cooler...

and No, Rain doesn't effect the engine at all.....
I leave mine open All the time....
Raining or not...

Lee

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posted on November 17th, 2006 at 09:14 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
and No, Rain doesn't effect the engine at all.....
I leave mine open All the time....
Raining or not...



I have to disagree here..... I have run stand-offs for years, but always close the engine cover during winter as my dellortos have gotten water in them and sometimes I've had a wet dizzy in extreme conditions..... That said.... Hoodjax (Stand-offs) work a treat in hot conditions.... A good investment IMHO.....




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posted on November 17th, 2006 at 09:49 PM



Hi Neil,
I changed My AIR filter to one with louvers so it doesn't block up with water...
that is possibly the only problem...

You can buy waterproofing kits for the coil and dizzy
if they are affected...

My Son, has twin webers and has run his open in the wet.
While you are driving, the rain doesn't normally go in there
its when you have stopped...
or you could put plastic or metal covers over the carbies...
or different air filters...
waterproof ones....

but I wouldn't drive mine in the summer without the engine lid open...
Not just the engine is cooler...
Everything is cooler, and thats got to better....

Lee

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posted on November 18th, 2006 at 02:39 PM



...or you could simply do what Hoodjax are designed for, and remove them in 20 seconds... :thumb



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posted on November 18th, 2006 at 03:54 PM



where can i get them in melbourne?
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posted on November 18th, 2006 at 03:55 PM



email or u2u VWCOOL (above), he makes em and will send them out to you...
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