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Author: Subject:  Engine misses on one side
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posted on May 3rd, 2011 at 05:01 PM
Engine misses on one side


My faithful Beetle has stumped the local mechanic! He has never been so flumoxed with a car before.
It is a 1976 Beetle, 1600 engine, single empi hpmx carb, pertronix ignition module.
It suddenly started missing a couple of weeks ago. really bad under load. It is only missing on the 2 cylinders on the passenger side.
Today the mechanic showed me something interesting. With the engine running, he pulled off a spark plug lead and held it close enough to the dizzy for the spark to jump across. Seemed to be running fine. Attached the lead properly again, started misfiring. Seems to be flooding on that side too.
Any ideas? At all?
Thanks.
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posted on May 3rd, 2011 at 05:55 PM



just change the spark plugs check for a crack in dissy cap and then the timing.
easy fix.:blush:




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posted on May 3rd, 2011 at 06:12 PM



also the rotor button
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posted on May 4th, 2011 at 09:15 AM



Talked to the mechanic again. He has already trid all the above. Made no difference.
Could it be the pertronix setup? The dizzy did get water in it not long before the problems started.
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posted on May 4th, 2011 at 10:29 AM



Try a cheap 009 and see if it is any different



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posted on May 4th, 2011 at 11:17 AM



Umm, yeah - electronic ignitions don't like getting wet. Pertronix, compufire etc. all basically the same... they LOOK waterproof but generally aren't.

I'd say throw a set of points at it and see what you get.




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posted on May 4th, 2011 at 06:57 PM



Put a new set of leads on it. Check manifold boot is not split on that side.



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posted on May 5th, 2011 at 12:44 PM



Also check the idle jet for that side, could be partially blocked, and check the idle mixtures
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posted on May 6th, 2011 at 08:08 PM



We have tried replacing the rubber manifold boots, plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor. No difference. Carby has been cleaned and cleaned again. Just waiting on getting another 009 dizzy to try.

Could it have anything to do with sticky valves? or any part of the head on that side?
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posted on May 6th, 2011 at 10:24 PM



so I am assuming that you did check the compression??
and you did change the spark plugs while you had them out??




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posted on May 7th, 2011 at 08:15 AM



this happened to me many years ago and my father cut the ead striped the rubber back on both ends and threaded one end through 2 holes and theother end through the other 2 holes and my old riley went great i asked what happened he said the cylender was either losing compression and oiling up the plug or the lead was rooted i didn't care the car ran
what you said about the lead jumping reminded me .so what does that say about your car eather vales are tight or a new wire would not hurt it will be something todo with the sparkegoodluck




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posted on May 7th, 2011 at 09:33 AM



So... the pertronix module that got wet has been in there the whole time... you haven't tried points yet ???



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posted on May 7th, 2011 at 06:22 PM



Just have to wait till I get another dizzy.
A friend of mine also said it could possibly be a bent pushrod?
We will wait and see. I'll let you know the result next week.

Thanks for your helpful input so far.
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posted on May 7th, 2011 at 06:33 PM



I'dd be checking the head to manifold seal again as these can be stuffed up quite easily ( even twice ) , to check if this joint is leaking , carefully spray some water around the area while idling and if the motor picks up revs a bit and or runs better then bingo youv've got it



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posted on May 8th, 2011 at 08:16 PM



tight rocker



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posted on May 11th, 2011 at 07:46 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by capstripes
Just have to wait till I get another dizzy.
A friend of mine also said it could possibly be a bent pushrod?
We will wait and see. I'll let you know the result next week.

Thanks for your helpful input so far.


A bent or broken push rod could be the culprit. Had this problem last year on a trip. It had the symptoms of a bad lead/plug, but it was the No.4 inlet valve push rod. It was snapped on the head end. The car would idle OK, be OK at high speed, but under load it was missing a cylinder.

It is a 1200 engine, but the same can happen on a 1600. If it is a bent/broken push rod, check to see what your valve clearances are like and whether the pushrod tube is blocked internally. To check the push rods, just pull off the rocker arm assembly and check the push rods on the left side. While you're at it, check the other side.

If it is a distributor, it would more than likely affect the whole engine, unless it is just a lead or plug. A single carb would again affect the whole engine.

Hope this helps.




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posted on May 18th, 2011 at 11:29 AM



Ok. Finally back.
Tried brand new dizzy. No luck.:td:
Mechanic has just removed engine and has has thoroughly checked the valves, pushrods etc. All very good.

So now we go back to the beginning.
He said it seems to be flooding on that one side. When he pulled engine out, lots of fuel sitting there. So must be back to carby.
It is a single Empi HPMX, so it does feed one side from each barrel.

Have you heard of this problem at all?
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posted on May 18th, 2011 at 12:15 PM



so the compression was good??

I have had that same thing , when you pull the plug lead away the engine ran better and it was just crooook spark plugs.:blush:

you have something funny going on there.:fakesniff:




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posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 01:51 PM



Mechanic has finally brought car back. He has given up on it. Now it runs worse than ever. We had to tow it home!
Bought replacement carb. back to 34 Pict 3. I have had it running just this afternoon. Nice.
Or so I thought. Took it for a quick test run. As soon as it hits a slight hill it just stops. No power at all!
Stop and it idles nicely again.

Any ideas?
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posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 02:09 PM



did u take it to a volkswagen mechanic?



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posted on June 3rd, 2011 at 02:09 PM



if your motor isnt just plain worn out from being over heated or worn cam shaft or something , try and advance the timing up to about 15deg and go for a road test and see what happens , see if motor pings , if it goes better and don't ping you may just try setting timing by ear.



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posted on June 7th, 2011 at 07:50 PM



How bout this for an out there theory? could the exhaust be partially blocked somewhere? Everything else has either been checked or replaced.
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posted on June 8th, 2011 at 11:09 AM



I'm liking the VW MECHANIC idea. Where are you ?



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posted on June 8th, 2011 at 01:07 PM



I am in Hobart. Only about 2 specialist vw mechanics. the mechanic i was using has been talking to one of them about the problem. His immediate suggestion? Pull the engine apart and rebuild it! What!
Doesn't sound like a good solution to me.

But?
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posted on June 9th, 2011 at 08:27 AM



do it by the numbers new plugs 2 carby kit 3 compreson test 4 tappets right setting 5 replace points AND condensor 6 do timing 7 recheck fuel line from tank to carby 8 burn the bugger and have a bbq



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posted on June 9th, 2011 at 08:35 PM



maybe you have checked it but is the timing advancing with RPM.



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posted on June 20th, 2011 at 09:15 PM



so did the bloke really try new spark plugs , really?????
then test drive ?????
did you pay for new plugs on your invoice.???
as it often the simple things.:blush:




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posted on June 20th, 2011 at 09:33 PM



A mate of mine and I worked on it again yesterday.
Mechanic said he had tried new plugs, new leads, new coil, new dizzy. But maybe not all at once?

We had the poor old bug idling away nicely on only 2 cylinders! No. 2 and 4 plugs were dead! Plus coil seems to be not quite right too. And coil to dizzy lead was cactus.
So this week will install new coil, leads and plugs.

I'll keep you posted.


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