| [ Total Views: 3275 | Total Replies: 39 | Thread Id: 90598 ] |
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 68Volkaru
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| posted on May 23rd, 2011 at 06:31 PM |
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The Citrus Sweetheart
Well, it pays to keep your eyes open.
I took the fam for a ride the other day, and just happened to glance into a backyard, and saw the following:
I then preceded to knock on his door, and 'queried' his lil gem in the back yard. Turns out, he wants it gone. So, we organized a 'viewing'.
This is what we found:
It appears to be in pretty good nick. Turns out it is a 71 that has been imported. All we have to do is try and find out if it was imported as a
'vert' or if it was 'verted' over here.
The lil fella has:
IRS
McPherson strut front end
Minimal rust: mainly in the sealing lips under the bonnet and deck lid
Only the one main ding, which is the size of a baseball in the left rear quarter
Soooo... we made him an offer, we haggled, and we agreed on an undisclosed amount of beer tokens, and hopefully pick it up in the next few days if
weather permits (and my tow guy doesn't get bogged). 
Plans: Well..... I 'did' have plans to do some major work to the "Green Hornet", buuut, seeing as that is currently running fine, I was thinking
of doing the 'Citrus Sweetheart" first, as a 'test bed' so to speak. The green hornet was for the missus, but given it has the sube donk, and I am
part sube, she has relinquished it to me, and has now claimed the orange 'thing'.
We are yet undecided on what we are going to do to it externally... or what ticker we will give it (I will now have a spare EA82T in the near future
as the 'Green Hornet' is getting open heart surgery and getting a new dicky ticker).
Will keep you all posted as things come about.... and as ideas reveal themselves.
Actually....... We are open to ideas....who knows, we may dedicate it to the people of AussieVeeDubbers and rebuild it with ideas from here (that all
depends on what gets submitted of course).
To kick it off, we have thought bout:
Doing it its original Orange
Doing it "Rat" style (keeping it festy  )
Doing it Matt black with pearl white sides, and parts of the bonnet (there is a matchbox car painted in the mentioned style that inspired the idea),
with a black interior, with sheet metal door cards... and various little touches.
The floor is open Ladies and gentlemen!
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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ian.mezz
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 02:09 PM |
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if you are going to put it back on the road .
before you spent money ,I would check with the RTA etc that you can do it.
ej20t like my old girl . heaps of fun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ElMIiHY7JYw
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68Volkaru
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 04:01 PM |
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I have been trying to track the vehicle history down, and have had 'some' luck..... tho I don't think it was an import, as no documentation can be
found on it.
Spoke to VIC roads, and they have had it on their system since 1994 as a convertible ('Tourer' in their terms) with no record of an engineers cert.
But, good ol RTA require one regardless.
Still, for the price, it is hard to pass up. Even with an engineers cert, it will make it a cheap bug.
Tha missus is keen!   and that's all
that matters.
(so I have been told)
P.S. Yes, that is supposed to be a thumb on the forehead
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
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i`ve got to finish this thing one day
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 05:10 PM |
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nice score ,will make a good summer cruiser
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Joel
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 08:07 PM |
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It's very unlikely its an import.
Have a look under the hood the compliance plate next to the hood latch will tell you.
Both my aus made 71 supers say motor producers limited
meets Australian Design Rules blah blah blah then its an aus made superbug.
from 72 they say Volkswagenwerk AG to meet ADR nos xxxxx
Imports after 70 will say Made in Germany with nothing about ADRs
Like Ian said do some research before you put any money into it.
As the engineers scrutinize choptop convertables very thoroughly to weed out the poorly strengthened ones.
Also the rollbar needs to be connected to the bracing in the under the floorpan, down the rear wheel arches and across to the windscreen.
Alot of the ones converted in the 80s when they weren;t as tough only have a roll bar welded to the body where the B pillars are lopped off and thats
it.
None of those ones will pass engineers certificate as is, I;ve seen several that have been modified to pass.
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 vw54
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 08:31 PM |
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wont be an import
best thing on that cars is the Bathurst globes
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Golde60
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 08:48 PM |
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judging by the sticker on the windscreen it was done by imported car wreckers, in springvale, melbourne
owner is mark holyoake, i used to get my car serviced out there many moons ago. he might know a bit about the car.
look em up and give em a ring
...................( O \ l / O ).....................
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68Volkaru
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| posted on May 24th, 2011 at 09:19 PM |
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Thanks all for your replies so far.
@ Golde60 - I managed to track him down this arvo and had a good chat to him. He does not remember the vehicle, but thinks it may have just come in
for servicing and someone slapped a sticker on there. He was amazed that I tracked him down from a sticker and took the time to ring him.
He agrees that it is not an import, after I told him that the Department of Transport and Regional Services (Car Import Division) had no records of it
being imported. He too suggested I check the plate in the front, but as the vehicle is not readily available to look at, I will have to see when I get
it(Which at the moment......weather permitting.. is tomorrow night).
As for not buying it.. I have already told the guy that I will take it...and at $500, why not?
Will keep ya's up to date with progress.
N 
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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VDUBXTC
A.k.a.: Jace
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| posted on May 25th, 2011 at 11:34 AM |
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What does it say on the rego lable? Hang onto that if it has anything sugesting Roaster or convertible. This will help with re registering it.
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Joel
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| posted on May 25th, 2011 at 12:35 PM |
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It's not a NSW rego sticker in the windscreen, either an SA or Vic one, which makes sense if imported used to work on it, sadly interstate rego
doesnt mean much to the RTA.
As long as the engine and gearbox is good its worth the money, but convertables are rust traps, especially when they've been laid up out doors like
that one has.
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rustydub
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| posted on May 25th, 2011 at 08:57 PM |
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Nice pick-up, how many spiders:? you know that the colours in your drive way now clash - you should sell it to the 'Golden Oldy' up the road..
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68Volkaru
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| posted on May 25th, 2011 at 09:20 PM |
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Welcome RustyDub.
Your on a forum? So, it is true. You can teach an old dog new tricks!
Cheers for the help unloading the orange 'Thing'.
Dog poo and spiders included.
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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68Volkaru
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| posted on May 25th, 2011 at 09:30 PM |
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Well, we took delivery of the orange 'Thing' tonight (thanks RustyDub for the helping hand).
It all started with:
(Look...Its RustyDub)
Busted.... That is not a happy smile.... It is a 'Hurry up and take the damn photo woman.. There is something crawling up my leg" smile.
First things first: Wrap it in tarps and Mortein bomb the lil critters. Then, out with the Karcher for a well earned tubsing. Then, the Full Monty.
Cheers
N
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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baghall
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| posted on May 26th, 2011 at 07:32 PM |
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Good find, just what I'm looking for as a donor car.
68 Baja - It's a growing pain!
58 Baja ute - and the pain spreads!
85 T3 Kombi - still growing
89 T3 Kombi - parts car
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rustydub
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| posted on June 1st, 2011 at 08:57 PM |
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Nice truck mate, what did you do with the Beetle???????
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68Volkaru
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| posted on June 20th, 2011 at 09:21 PM |
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Well,
Stripping has begun on the orange thing. Not too bad in the rust department:
Bottom of the right door well
Inside right tire well
Left foot well and heater channel (Seems to be the worst)
Front lip
Right bonnet lip
And
Most of it is surface rust, but that is about it so far. I am sure a lil bit more will reveal itself once paint stripping has started and after
blasting.
I managed to purchase myself a nice Mig welder on the weekend, so that I can practice and do all the work myself.
We are getting closer on a paint scheme and style. I think I might keep it quiet for now, and let it reveal itself as it goes.
(Hi 'RustyDub'. NOTE: Yes, we are grown men wearing gloves working on a car, but anyone who knows what the temps are like in Canberra at this time
of year at 8pm, know that it is damn cold!)
After sitting idle for 5-6 years, decided to have a fiddle with the Donk. Was a bit of messen round involved, as it had an immobilizer fitted.
'RustyDub' lent us one of his batteries, which gave us life. At first, it wouldn't turn over. There was just a ticking sound coming from the
engine. We then brainstormed and worked out that it was probably the immobilizer.
I managed to track the wires from the ignition barrel to the immobilizer, then the wires from the immobilizer to the donk, cut them and joined
them.
Turn the key...... and it turned over. But still no life. Pulled the dizzy cap off and noticed that there was no spark, so out with the multi meter.
After much stuffing around and resetting of the gap, it finally had spark.
Off with the carby cover to fill the bowl with some much needed motion lotion...turn the key....
and
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjOSa_QTySo
Oh, and 'The Green Hornet" sitting lonely and untouched in the driveway 
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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annosL
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| posted on June 20th, 2011 at 11:38 PM |
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you made a good deal there!
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rustydub
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| posted on June 21st, 2011 at 08:23 PM |
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I just had a thought Volkaru, we should build a heated tunnel from your shed to mine, especially now that you have a heater in your shed. All the
parts have turned up for me to put WeiBer back together.You will have to come up and show me how to put pictures on the the forum so others can see
what a VW packed street we live in. (Mr & Mrs RustyDub have 2 Beetles, 1 Type 3 and a Polo in a pear tree)
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68Volkaru
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| posted on September 6th, 2011 at 11:01 AM |
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Not much to report unfortunately, citrus has been nearly stripped of everything now bar the engine and left rear guard, then will come the paint
stripper.
Waiting on warmer weather and our neighbour Rusty dub to recover from surgery to give me helping hand whilst Neil is deployed overseas.
Will post pics one the paint stripping begins 
cheers
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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rustydub
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| posted on September 6th, 2011 at 01:33 PM |
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We should have a go at one of the guards this weekend to see whats under the citrus, and that will be straight after we find you some gears of cause.
And you fit my new sexy running boards.....guess you didn't know that you are fitting them for me whilst my wing is out of action.
Cheers, RustyDub
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68Volkaru
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| posted on September 8th, 2011 at 09:26 AM |
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hahaaaa
No prob's I can fit he running boards for ya
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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rustydub
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| posted on September 8th, 2011 at 09:16 PM |
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Cool, we can use your smooth plastic ramps, you will find them better to drive on. I don't think I can get my right hand on the steering wheel yet.
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68Volkaru
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| posted on April 10th, 2012 at 09:24 PM |
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Well, it has been a while since I have updated this. Been a while since I worked on the car actually. I am now back, and have been pottering around in
the garage over the past few weeks. I managed to score the Easter weekend to work on the 'vert' (thank you darling wife ), with the help of a mate from melb and a local from ol jerra.
I will let the pics do the talking from now. (Maybe the odd comment tho)
Wednesday night saw the donk lifted onto the work bench.... a few beers.... and....
With the donk now stripped, ready for cleaning, research for part acquisition and then re-assebly. This will hopefully happen in the next few months
as time and funds allow.
Thursday: Bits here and there and the turning of a dryer tumbler into a fire drum...
Friday:
I then thought it was time to split the shell from the chassis, cept I ran into a couple of hurdles. Who ever did the 'chop', decided to spot weld
the shell/chassis bolts to the washers..... and then spot weld the washers to the new rails....
But, a bit of this......
and I was able to get the shifter (only thing that would fit) onto the washers
We then spent the next hour undoing all the remaing bolts and little bits and pieces that held the two together.
Let there be LIGHT!
Partial light that is. The shell would not come off. So, another 45 minutes of poking around, reading the manual, googling/utubing and I finally stood
at the back and visually separated the two, and found this little fella:
A quick blind date with the ol grinder, and....
Saturday I was flying solo, so I decided to have a crack at repairing the dash from where the previous owner had butchered the radio slot, and had
aslo inserted some random switches....
Prepping:
My first go at welding sheet metal this thin:
Not a bad result, tho I am not really happy with it. Not after using the KCW resto site as inspiration. Those guys are magicans.
Sunday i was again flying solo, and decided that i wanted to make a dolly for the shell to move around on. I thought about using some to the random
bits of frame work that has been added to underneath the chassis, and to get to that, i had to strip it down.
Next road block!
The rear hub nuts, both left and right, were seized on. No amount of persuasion was going to get these lil lads off. With a breaker bar and the
addition of an extended bar, only saw the rear wheels turning on the concrete (Handbrake on AND in gear).
then i got a bigger hammer:
First:
NOPE!
A snappy trip to bunnings for a butane torch for some heating with rapid cooling.. and some more heating..
Then I whipped this up.... buuuut....
But, I won in the end. Me 1 - Nuts - 0
With a few hurdles on the drums (left rear pads wound out to the max so the drum would not come off - a mild soaking of WD-40 and i finally removed
them).
Then, one of the little hex head drive shaft bolt inners had been stripped, so some more messing around with a cutting disc and a cold chisel:
and finally:
Monday saw the making of a rear dolly (will get pics later) and that was about it.
Plan on repairing the rust in the shell, and replacing the floor pans when i get the parts. I have more than enough parts that need cleaning in the
'quiet hours' to keep me going for a few weeks.
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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 Bizarre
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| posted on April 10th, 2012 at 09:48 PM |
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excellent stuff!
If it is any help - with the lip where the bonnet and rear lid seals go. Just pull the seal off and clean it up.
Then put a mexican seal on the lids
Have a look here
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=36756&page=3
Futue te ipsum!!!
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68Volkaru
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| posted on April 11th, 2012 at 06:11 PM |
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Thanks for that Bizzare. I was wondering how I was going to either repair (even thinner to weld ) or somehow replace.
I will deff be adding that to my 'to get' list.
nice beetle by the way
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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ian.mezz
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| posted on April 11th, 2012 at 08:16 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 68Volkaru
Thanks for that Bizzare. I was wondering how I was going to either repair (even thinner to weld ) or somehow replace.
I will deff be adding that to my 'to get' list.
nice beetle by the way
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keep up the good work,
you can buy that seal at clark rubber.
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69bug
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| posted on April 12th, 2012 at 10:11 PM |
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love your work so far!
1969 1500
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68Volkaru
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| posted on April 14th, 2012 at 08:54 PM |
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Thanks Mezz, I'll go have a checkers.
Thanks 69bug.
Got a bit of work done today. Mainly just working on stripping paint for rust repair.
(NOTE: Dolly that I made last weekend on the rear. Works well. just need to make one for the front, so I dont have to lift it and drag it around)
Right heater rails:
****** Does anyone know if i can get the thin strips that sit ontop of the chanels? Mine are a little rusty at the B pillar and also dinged up, and i
was hoping to remove them and weld in some newbies.
Wiiith a lil bit of work ahead of me.
Looking forward to it actually. I have stumbled accross an awesome sheet metal fab forum, where the guy goes into detail regarding the bending and
manipulation of sheet metal. He makes it look easy of course, but, ya gotta start somewhere eh
Cleaned out the back. Not back to bare metal yet....
After the tip from Bizzare regarding the rubber seal lips, I got in and removed them (I reckon those spot weld drill bits are the shiz kniz
)
More work (Not looking forward to this bit)
Still have the right side to go. Wanted to show the missus how AWESOME the spot weld drill bit was.
Will finish taking off the lip seal tomorrow, and finish up using the wire wheel (twisted wire wheels on a grinder are up there as the shiz kniz) and then I will get in with the paint stripper and do the big panel
stuff. If timing goes well, I might even have a crack at some rust repair.
Not happy with how the dash turned out.
Have an idea to use a modern steering wheel, so all the 'accessories' will be on the colum stalks...... so, I am planning on cutting out my last
effort of welding, and also plug up all the holes so as to have a smooth clean dash.
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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cam070
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| posted on April 15th, 2012 at 02:35 AM |
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You should try taking the lip seal metal off using a screwdriver and hammer. That's how I removed mine front and back, just using the screwdriver
like a chisel. No filling required once it's gone and just a quick clean with a wire wheel and job done!
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68Volkaru
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| posted on April 15th, 2012 at 11:46 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by cam070
You should try taking the lip seal metal off using a screwdriver and hammer. That's how I removed mine front and back, just using the screwdriver
like a chisel. No filling required once it's gone and just a quick clean with a wire wheel and job done!
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Cheers for that. Will keep it in mind. Wont need it for the rear tho... as I have plans for that. Plus, I like any excuse to weld
After my dash, I need all the experience I can get.
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car. Oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. |
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