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Author: Subject:  1967 1300 "Race Bug" - Updated 29/06/2016 Vintage Speed Exhaust!!
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posted on July 31st, 2011 at 09:54 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens


My cam is like a fk89 advanced 4 degs, and runs the same with 4 plugs as it does with the 8.


ya shit stirrer :kiss:
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posted on July 31st, 2011 at 11:27 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
I have the Street Elim 2000's on my ragtop......temps run fine.

My cam is like a fk89 advanced 4 degs, and runs the same with 4 plugs as it does with the 8.


are you lifting as much as a fk89 with 1.1 rockers craig.....??
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posted on August 1st, 2011 at 08:59 AM



at the cam, yes.

I now have 1.25's on the motor, so .520" total lift.




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posted on August 1st, 2011 at 10:48 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
at the cam, yes.

I now have 1.25's on the motor, so .520" total lift.


its amazing how much hp pobjoy motors are making with 1.1 rocker cams....460 thou lift at the valve....the yanks would not believe its possible...:lol:
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posted on August 2nd, 2011 at 10:29 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by cnfabo
Quote:
Originally posted by Craig Torrens
at the cam, yes.

I now have 1.25's on the motor, so .520" total lift.


its amazing how much hp pobjoy motors are making with 1.1 rocker cams....460 thou lift at the valve....the yanks would not believe its possible...:lol:


my cam is not a 1.1 rocker cam.....and its not a pobjoy one either.




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posted on August 2nd, 2011 at 10:23 PM



here is some info i found about the unported s/e"s .all from darren krewnchuck....

Hi, I can't find any numbers for out of the box S/E's

However from memory I can tell you that on the intakes at about .300" they will be around 130-135 CFM and at about .450" they will be around 160 CFM and they basically flatten right out after that. Thus indicating the need for bowl/chamber shaping and a really good valve job.
Without ruining the ports cross sectional area you can easily get 190CFM out of them.

Home > CB Performance Parts > Heads and Manifolds > CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore) Price: $1,264.99
Code: CB1543

Shipping Weight: 25.00 pounds


Quantity:



These heads were designed on the CB Performance SUPERFLOW SF-600 Flow Bench for Maximum Port Velocity and CFM with all New CNC Intake and Exhaust Ports.

Flows At: 193.5 @25" CFM

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posted on August 3rd, 2011 at 04:20 PM



I think i'll go for the unported ones until ive got some carbs that flow to bolt onto it.

Even so; those a pretty decent flow figures for an out of the box head and a big improvement over the single ports!! :dork:




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posted on August 3rd, 2011 at 08:11 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by sander288
I think i'll go for the unported ones until ive got some carbs that flow to bolt onto it.

Even so; those a pretty decent flow figures for an out of the box head and a big improvement over the single ports!! :dork:


get some quotes on how much it is to hand port some heads before you order........i'll lend you some carbs and an exhaust if that helps
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posted on August 3rd, 2011 at 08:28 PM



What do you think of my engine case as a base for an engine?

It's an F series case with smaller oil galleries... would it be over doing it expecting alot out of the engine by bolting on S/E's?

I've been meaning to get on the phone to stan but havn't had a chance this week (or the time...:lol:)




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posted on August 3rd, 2011 at 09:18 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by cnfabo
here is some info i found about the unported s/e"s .all from darren krewnchuck....

Hi, I can't find any numbers for out of the box S/E's

However from memory I can tell you that on the intakes at about .300" they will be around 130-135 CFM and at about .450" they will be around 160 CFM and they basically flatten right out after that. Thus indicating the need for bowl/chamber shaping and a really good valve job.
Without ruining the ports cross sectional area you can easily get 190CFM out of them.

Home > CB Performance Parts > Heads and Manifolds > CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore) Price: $1,264.99
Code: CB1543

Shipping Weight: 25.00 pounds


Quantity:



These heads were designed on the CB Performance SUPERFLOW SF-600 Flow Bench for Maximum Port Velocity and CFM with all New CNC Intake and Exhaust Ports.

Flows At: 193.5 @25" CFM

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Good info on the S/E.

I know the S/E can handle plenty of heat, I've seen Greg Ward drive from Sydney to Brisbane and then race plenty of times, however the 044's have more cooling fins which in my opinion means they should be able to shed heat faster (cool better) then a S/E which in turn should be better for the life of the heads.
On top of that their better value then S/E as they come in several proven CNC formats.
However if you want the best then nothing beats JPM.
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posted on August 3rd, 2011 at 09:30 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by sander288
What do you think of my engine case as a base for an engine?

It's an F series case with smaller oil galleries... would it be over doing it expecting alot out of the engine by bolting on S/E's?

I've been meaning to get on the phone to stan but havn't had a chance this week (or the time...:lol:)


you wont be able to use it if you're going 1915




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posted on August 5th, 2011 at 08:41 PM



Ok so i've since spoken to Stan and went over the options and it was basically go down the 1600 route or keep it 1300. Because of the case mainly; I didn't want to buy a new case as well as new barrels, new heads etc... another 900 I didn't want to spend.

I've decided on being 1300 so if I end up actually racing I can run in the same class as the cooper's so i've asked stan to build a 1300 mini beater.

Looking at getting some reconditioned 1300 twin ports from justkampers at them moment; but have to wait to see what is in stock as they are a special order.

And I've managed to source brand new Mahle P&C's also from Justkampers.

Going to order some 40Idf's to bolt on and the rest i'll leave to stan. I've told him everything can be changed except the displacement (1285cc).

So watch this space come September.... :tu:




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posted on August 5th, 2011 at 11:08 PM



looking forward to seeing the outcome....good luck....
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posted on August 6th, 2011 at 12:17 PM



Sounds like a good option. Hope it goes well. :tu:



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posted on August 9th, 2011 at 05:13 PM



Good luck! Looking forward to seeing how this goes.
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posted on August 29th, 2011 at 04:01 PM



Brief Update,

Last post I got the P&C, i've now managed to get some reco' twin port heads from Jax VW Heads,

I've also got a restored 019 dizzy coming from Glenn Ring in the states; see link from the samba add, I got one in the screamer blue so the engine will look pretty swish; also if the car is retired from racing at any stage i'll jsut drop the front nad be cal-look! I'll keep my chinese 009 aside for an emergency and run the 019.

I havn't managed to sell the formula vee carb I have so that will get bolted on until I've saved some for the webers.




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posted on August 29th, 2011 at 04:56 PM



http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=986451 

the samba link :smirk:




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posted on August 31st, 2011 at 06:14 PM



Got a 1300 myself, so I'm very interested in how you go.
So far it's lloking great - well done sander.

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yes.gif posted on January 7th, 2012 at 04:43 PM
Engine Nearly Ready to start


Hey All,

Long time since last post; i've had a few delays in picking up the engine so have only gotten it last week!

It's all finsihed and I am very interested in seeing how it will run.

It's in and the picture below is just my dry fit of everything to just get the bugger going; eventually I'll get the tins powdercoated and pretty it up.. maybe

Been a pain setting up the tinware; as the cylinder tins are 2nd hand and were a little out of whack so it required some nip and tuck. Now my only issue (until I get it going) is the throttle cable is too long by about an inch; any suggestions?

Specs are as follows:

1285cc (69X77)
Mahle Barrels and Pistons
Rebuilt 1300 Dual port heads
Compression roughly 9.1:1
Stock valvetrain (rockers, shaft, springs)
40mm Kadrons (130 mains, 28mm venturi)
Pobjoy 37/68 Cam
AA Conrods
30mm HD Oil pump
Stock weight flywheel
Stock crank (balanced)
1 3/8" Header
Bosch 019 Dizzy

Oil will be some 25W50 Castrol Edge

In essecne it is basically a hot 1600 or base 1916 but under capacity so will hopefully produce better results without the more high performance parts.

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http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x463/sander19671988/DSC02903.jpg




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posted on January 7th, 2012 at 05:00 PM
throttle cable


just use half a split pin in screw clamp and just clamp it to the wire. making sure the the screw tightens up on the back of the split pin.



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posted on January 8th, 2012 at 11:17 AM



You might want to fit a fuel pressure regulator for your Kadrons. They only like between 1.5 and 2psi fuel pressure.

I have the same carbies and linkage on mine and I've mounted it here.


http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad172/smileyman1968/Alyce%20the%20Baja/SAM_1601.jpg


Mine weren't running very nicely until I fitted it.

Aside from that I am loving your build. Keep up the great work!



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posted on January 8th, 2012 at 08:09 PM



Update,

All connected and plugged; have a minor issue of a single wire connected to the wrong spot but it's now pissing outside so i'll wait till morning to start it!

Re the fuel; I checked the amount of movement of the shaft before installing the pump with only a 4.5mm difference from highest to lowest point so the pressure should be fine; but we'll see

Cheers

Shaun




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posted on January 8th, 2012 at 09:42 PM



Ditto for the pressure regulator... If the fuel pressure is higher than about 2.5psi at the carb it can push past the needle and seat and cause overfilling and missing and general nastiness.... Having said that they are great carbies, very simple !
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posted on January 8th, 2012 at 10:56 PM



Just read the whole thing fella good luck with the start tomorrow. Great read keep us posted



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posted on January 9th, 2012 at 10:52 AM



good luck sander,should be very fun to drive indead....post up some youtube vids maybe.....
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posted on January 9th, 2012 at 02:47 PM



Update;

Trouble in paradise; went to start the car this morning and nothing...

Battery is ok so I then go to the starter motor; turn on ignition then put a screw driver over the 2 points on the solenoid; again nothing.

Trip to Vintage and purchased a new starter; put it in and woo hoo it wurrs; but then the battery goes...

Jumper leads and the Tiguan come to help; so then its cranking cranking and then nothing; uhhh...

Pull the new starter out and the starter bushing comes with it... compare my new bushing with old and the old one is WAY oversized which explains why it isn't starting...

now i'm jsut hoping I havn't broken my new starter; a bit fed up at the moment and have now gone in for a beer and wll try it again later this afternoon and cross my fingers, I may need to get a new bigger bushing to stop the slop,

Cheers

Shaun

[ Just removed and re-installed starter with a larger bushing; it is now cranking properly but still not catching; will sort it out soon...]




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posted on January 9th, 2012 at 04:20 PM



Is it the same flywheel you had before.????

........or have you hit mismatch 6V/12V box, bush, flywheel, starter trouble
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posted on January 9th, 2012 at 07:16 PM



same flywheel as before; I got the starter going properly but now have no spark at the plugs so am working on the points.

The coil is good; its got a nice thick blue spark




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posted on January 10th, 2012 at 12:29 AM



Tantalizingly close... Stick at it as there is nothing like hearing the first bark of life......
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posted on January 10th, 2012 at 07:49 AM



I'm sure you're on top of it but maybe a spark plug rotation to see if dissy is 90 or 180* out of place??? Good luck so close



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