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 sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 09:10 AM |
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I got a better light to have a look in the tunnel and see what's going on and I found where the 2 pieces join (phew) I took some pics of it.
Inside where they join; has this middle mount moved to a weird location or is this normal? It appears to be mounting the accelerator cable tube
This is where this hole is
This is up front; is my clutch hook in a funny location or is this ok?
The trusty 1200 Bentley Manual shows the below
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 matberry
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 09:33 AM |
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Have you late pedals fitted to early pan?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 10:00 AM |
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If I do I wouldn't know; I've not touched the pedal cluster since buying the car in 2003.
Here is a UK pedal cluster from a 60-64 bug RHD
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matberry
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 10:50 AM |
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What are YOUR pedals though. Your pic shows the hook only, it looks like a welded hook which is the later pedals that are not cast assemblies like
your UK internet pic which is what we would have up to '67. The late pedal assembliy (welded pressed metal construction) have the clutch hook further
to the left in the pan, so adaption is required. I mod the pedals, maybe your car they butchered the clutch-tube with a late pedal assembly.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 11:03 AM |
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Ask and you shall receive; definately not an early one
And a pic inside the tunnel; I've got some better access now so have "joined" the pieces together. The back section is also loose so it needed to
be pushed backwards. No wonder I couldn't get a bow in the bowden tube, the guide tube was always to far forward.
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sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 11:06 AM |
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My cluster was pieced together by the bush mechanics
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matberry
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 11:15 AM |
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They pieced together the wrong pedals
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 11:33 AM |
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what do you think the best course of action is?
I can get the cable through and get the car going but it isn't going to achieve much. The pedal cluster well that is a cluster F*&K but it works
but I might try and find a replacement one for my model.
The guide tube though I might get it tacked into place where it is and then once I've got a new cluster have a new tube welded into place where it is
supposed to be.
I wonder if cold welding the front and back of the guide tube will get me out of trouble?
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matberry
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 11:52 AM |
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You need to weigh up what you want. To change to early pedals, you'll need to get the pedals (in good nick) and change the mounting point on the pan
where the outboard mount is. I'm thinking a new clutch tube securely mounted but to meet the late clutch hook, will be the easiest, you already have
access holes and the tube is loose now, so that needs fixing anyhow.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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dangerous
A.k.a.: Dave Butler Muffin Man
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 01:00 PM |
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That year bug was the first with those late pedals in Australia.
Daimo Pell's is the same model from memory, the last Aussie cars before the fully imported '68.
Whether VW Australia was smart enough to change the clutch tube position to suit? probably not.
Which may be why it has broken loose.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by westi
That's mad Alan.
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matberry
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 01:09 PM |
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Thanks Dave, my mistake, obviously late '67, one would think.
I'm sure the factory would have changed the pan as I think there is around 40-50mm difference in the two different locations (by memory)
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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sander288
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| posted on February 7th, 2013 at 01:27 PM |
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The speedo shows May 67
I think what I'll do is just get a whole new tube welded in and close her up; done.
Whats the best material; stainless, copper, aluminium or steel?
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sander288
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| posted on February 24th, 2013 at 05:29 PM |
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UPDATE 24/2/2013
The little beastie lives again; got the clutch tube fixed up and put the engine back in this weekend. Running all good now leak free. Just need to
check timing, valves & mixture, sync and top up oil.
She has been off the road for a little while now so It was good to take it around the block again.
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hellbugged
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| posted on February 24th, 2013 at 07:01 PM |
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Cool.
Yeah missed the updates Sean , sorry ... Same pedal assembly as mine.
Good to fire em up after a period of garagedness hey....
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sander288
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| posted on June 18th, 2013 at 04:16 PM |
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Took it for a brief run again today; had to buy a new battery for her after the 7 year NRMA battery final wouldn't take charge.
Had to clear some stuff from the old rental and didn't have the tiguan..... so Bug to the rescue (again!) took out the passenger seat and loaded her
up with some stuff. This would be about the 6th time she has helped me move house!
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sander288
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 11:50 AM |
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Been plagued by a sticky throttle since putting twin carbs on the car and poked around to see what the issue could be; turns out the accelerator pedal
has been minced together and re-welded in one spot so I found some rod ends which I got a few years back in error with a left hand thread; joined them
together with some threaded rod and attached to the accelerator. Lateral's thread on his resto and daimo's help put me in the right direction!
I would recommend this type of upgrade to your pedal; I now have absolute max travel and really smooth pedal; getting around the city is going to be
sooooo much better than before as a plus heel and toe should be possible! 
BEFORE
AFTER
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 12:17 PM |
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So when are the 1.25 rockers going on ?
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sander288
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 01:27 PM |
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Once I get around the purchasing them 
Going for some CB rockers "super stock" 1.25:1 they literally slip on without drama and use the stock adjusting screws
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1692
The other thing which I'll be getting before the end of the year is some titanium vale retainers to lighten up the valvetrain
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sander288
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 03:46 PM |
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changed the regular nuts to nyloc nuts that I had lying around and spaced the bottom attachment point out a bit so the angle on the rod end isn't as
severe.
Heel and toe is definitely now possible 
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hellbugged
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 07:07 PM |
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Flip the rod end at the pedal round the other way
Titanium retainers. Hmmmm, not for high mileage
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sander288
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 07:11 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
Flip the rod end at the pedal round the other way
Titanium retainers.... Hmmmm, not for high milage
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tried the rod end on the other side it interferes with the pedal edge and doesn't line up with the hole.
In all honesty it is all a bit over engineered for the purpose but it only cost me $3 to do because of all this shite I had
Do the retainers wear out?
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 07:15 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
Titanium retainers.... Hmmmm, not for high milage
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he does about 50km/year....so that won't be a problem 
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sander288
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| posted on July 8th, 2013 at 07:17 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Craig Torrens
| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
Titanium retainers.... Hmmmm, not for high milage
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he does about 50km/year....so that won't be a problem
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Pretty much the case at the moment but it's more like 100km/month (because thats high mileage....)
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fish26
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| posted on September 5th, 2013 at 12:20 PM |
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Interesting thread, this whole 1300 banter......
Just curious, you have a Tighe 148A 37/68 cam, where do you find the powerband is with your combo considering the cam is on the large side for a 1300
bitten by the bug..........several times
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sander288
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| posted on September 6th, 2013 at 11:10 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by fish26
Interesting thread, this whole 1300 banter......
Just curious, you have a Tighe 148A 37/68 cam, where do you find the powerband is with your combo considering the cam is on the large side for a 1300
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I don't have a tacho; so that is pretty hard to for me to tell.
Going off what Stan has told me; it should be at 5500rpm max and come in around the 3k mark.... that is based off a 1641cc - best guess I'm on
par....
It actually is a pretty strong motor for it's cc's. Driving it down to coffs and back the other month really gave me an indication of how it runs,
especially in all the back roads around coffs and lismore (due to detour). It is running out of breath though at about 130-140kph, which is the
exhaust I think.
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fish26
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| posted on September 7th, 2013 at 03:39 PM |
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Thanks mate, good insight
bitten by the bug..........several times
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sander288
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| posted on September 8th, 2013 at 07:04 PM |
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Stock Exhaust Mod
Soooo, despite all instincts to whack a good extractor on the thing like a big flange glass pack etc.... I've purchased a stock muffler...
BUT; I plan to ventilate this thing well enough that it will flow better than my GT thing that I have at the moment (which according to a volksworld
test made less power than a stock muffler anyway on a 1600).
I got it today and went to it with the cutting wheel as it was clinking on the inside; turns out the pipes off 2 & 4 had snapped off and come
loose in a couple of spots which meant they just pulled out. Unlike the muffler shown on the VWDCQINC website this one had 2 equal length pipes with a
crimp on the end. The photos were taken just after a bit of a clean out so it looks a little moist inside.
Plan is to replace these pipes with new ones without the crimp and without the holes so that they basically direct it out their respective tailpipes
directly; might look at directing the 2 & 4 inlets too, and then add on some straight pipes or TDE tail pipes. I'll then get it powder-coated in
stock grey colour or ceramic coated (inside & out)
Without adieu the photos
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sander288
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| posted on September 8th, 2013 at 07:11 PM |
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Selling vs Porsche
Well I've had a win on the selling for a porsche thing; the bug is NOT being sold 
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SuperOwen
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| posted on September 8th, 2013 at 07:14 PM |
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After cutting it open do you think it would have been easier to make a muffler from scratch a bit like an arbarth style system?
I like the idea of keeping it stock looking though, what tailpipes are you going to run?
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sander288
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| posted on September 8th, 2013 at 07:22 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by SuperOwen
After cutting it open do you think it would have been easier to make a muffler from scratch a bit like an arbarth style system?
I like the idea of keeping it stock looking though, what tailpipes are you going to run?
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Probably... but I also can't weld so would need to leave the car with someone to do this etc... plus have a "stock" looking can is part of the
appeal.
I think for pipes I'll be getting the TDE tail pipes; but this is up in the air; what ever I get I want stock looking
http://www.tde-kaefer-tuning.de/index.php?pageid=9
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