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Author: Subject:  Beginning the 61 Beetle project
MemberJ-Rod
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posted on November 17th, 2011 at 10:36 AM
Beginning the 61 Beetle project


Hi all,

I'm from Adelaide and new to this website and new to restorations. This looks like the place where I can learn and ask questions!

We have had a 1961? (chassis # 3741619) VW beetle in the family for 20 years. My sisters drove it before breaking it. Lack of oil was a problem...which I think led to a cracked crankcase? not completely sure, I will be looking into it soon enough. Think the engine is a 1200 with big bore kit.

The beetle was in solid condition and still garaged until 4 years ago when we shifted house and had to store it outdoors. It has sat there half stripped collecting dust and rust (hopefully mainly surface rust). The engine is still together but out of the car and covered in rust.

I now have a shed for the car, my aim was to strip the car and possibly sell the parts. However, my enthusiasm for the beetle has got the better of me and I am now keen to restore it (fingers crossed that there isn't too much rust)

Anyway enough from me for now, I will add some photo's to this thread of the beetle shortly. Looking forward to the chit chat.
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posted on November 17th, 2011 at 07:44 PM



When you say resto it, dou you mean bring it back to it's former glory, or did you have another plan in mind?
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posted on November 17th, 2011 at 08:19 PM



Just to have it running would be nice :D I guess it wouldn't be exact origional condition, but no major mods. I would like an origional colour, with all the crome and origional interior. I will keep the current engine if it is save-able! A little lower than origional would be nice.
Money is going to be an issue, but i dont mind taking my time and learning along the way.
I have no plans for it to be a show car...but something neat would be nice.
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posted on November 17th, 2011 at 10:08 PM



Well you are in the right pace here. There are loads of people who will be able to help and loads of places to get spares. If you need anything just ask and no doubt peope will be able to help you.
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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 06:18 AM



J-Rod

Iam new too to the forum and have a 64 Beetle been in the family since new... Still goin.

Get it on the road bloke, grab a 1200 engine and drive it

cheers and best of luck




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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 06:12 PM



Here are some pics of the bug sitting outside. Lots of work ahead!...plenty of rusty parts

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posted on November 18th, 2011 at 06:14 PM



Soms more pics

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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 12:28 PM



Which suburb do you live in and what do you need help with?

Dave
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posted on November 19th, 2011 at 05:16 PM



Hey Dave,

I live at Mawson lakes, but the car will be at Modbury until I rent a place with some room. Not sure what I need help with yet, I'm sure i'll figure that out once I start!

Cheers
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posted on November 24th, 2011 at 03:21 PM



Finally moving the 61 beetle indoors this sunday!

Just checked the engine numbers, the one in the pic above and still together is a 1300...will have to see if it can be cleaned up and saved. The other one, which is in pieces is a 1200 with big bore kit (this one has a cracked engine block and everything completely rusted).

It's a long way down the track, but any thoughts on my best engine option...try save the 1300? Look for something else? I'm not really interested in the power.

I want to atleast have a play with the 1300 to learn a bit more.

Cheers
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posted on November 24th, 2011 at 03:36 PM



Starting with some basics...The first thing you need to find out is the condition of the bottom end, ie main bearings. They are the backbone of your engine. Building an engine with worn main bearings is like building a house on dodgey foundations.
1300 and 1600 engines use the same (69mm) crankshaft. The difference is in the size of the piston. If the 1300 (77mm) pistons and cylinders are reusable then stick with them. If not, the 1600 (85.5mm) piston and cylinders slip straight in and are the cheaper option to replace.
1300 cylinder heads will need to be machined to suit 1600 cylinders and have the same size valves as 1200 engines. Again if the heads need replacing, you have the choice of using single or twin port heads.
Cheers Dave
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posted on November 24th, 2011 at 04:00 PM



Thanks Dave,

I'll get the engine apart, and have someone with better mechanical knowledge check it out with me. I have a VW book ordered for my xmas present to help! I know the heads were reconditioned just before this engine died (think thats when it had an oil leak and my sister forgot that!)

Fingers crossed the cylinders and bearings are ok...time will tell. Do the 1600 cylinders fit in the same case? excuse my lack of mechanical knowledge.

Thanks again
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posted on November 25th, 2011 at 01:53 PM



Q...Do the 1600 cylinders fit in the same case?
A...Yes. if it is a 1300 crankcase, 1600 piston and cylinders slip straight in.

PS...a 1300 single port engine number will start with the letter "F" followed by six or seven digits (numbers) ie F1972222
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posted on November 25th, 2011 at 10:00 PM



Thanks!

Yea it's a 1300 F1070615
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posted on April 9th, 2017 at 09:26 AM



Update - we have finally begun work on my 1961 beetle. We now have somewhere to work on it, now for the fun.
Time to complete stripping the car and separate chassis and body.
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posted on April 16th, 2017 at 05:08 PM



I'm starting to look for some information on body and paint for my beetle. Does anyone have a good reputable location in SA who will paint my bug or has experience painting beetles?. I will do as much of the prep work as my skills allow (not sure how much that is yet), but I want to pay for professional job. I understand this can get very expensive, but just trying to get some leads going.
Still not sure on acrylic or 2 pack either, anyone here had experience with either?

Thanks for any help!
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posted on July 27th, 2017 at 10:16 PM



Anyone got a good blaster they've used in South Australia? Was looking into dustless blasting, but I understand the sand blasters remove most of the excess and should be professional enough not to warp or damage the metal.
Looking for someone who also finished the car in a primer or rust proofing of some sort so I can take the car to my panel beater/painter.
Cheers for any advice!
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posted on July 28th, 2017 at 06:39 AM



The sandblaster is very important and you should ask to speak to other people he has done work for on their cars to see what they think of him. They can cause lots of problems if they are not careful. My sandblaster in Brisbane was an ex panel beater so he knew what to do. I would also be double checking and getting my compressor out to make sure all of the sand is out of all of the nooks and crannies. The heater channels and napoleons hat as well as the tunnel can hide lots of the sand.

Good luck on your search.

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posted on July 28th, 2017 at 09:24 PM



Thanks Yogie, I spoke to someone today about sand blasting. They were very honest about the pro's and con's of sandblasting and other stripping methods. They blast cars for some good car restoration companies and have a good understanding of where they can and can't blast safely.
I'll be taking the car to panel beaters then a good clean out before paint.
Cheers
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posted on July 29th, 2017 at 04:30 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by J-Rod
Anyone got a good blaster they've used in South Australia? Was looking into dustless blasting, but I understand the sand blasters remove most of the excess and should be professional enough not to warp or damage the metal.
Looking for someone who also finished the car in a primer or rust proofing of some sort so I can take the car to my panel beater/painter.
Cheers for any advice!

Skip the guys on Churchill Rd North, Dry sandblasting.
Call Mark Chiappin from Quill Falcon. He sells their Dustless gear so can put you on to a good Dustless Blaster. 0458455668.
Or Rapid Blast - 1800 421 204, they're made here at Salisbury Plains. The Owner is really easy to get on with and will put you onto a local Blaster.
I'd offer to do it for you but haven't bought mine yet.
Both systems offer a holdfast coating when they're done that is good for a few days. Stops the instant flash rust.




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posted on November 15th, 2017 at 05:52 PM



Hi all,

Quick update on my 61 - body and chassis has been separated, waiting and deciding on panel beater/painter still. Until then the body is sitting and waiting.

I've had the chassis degreased and steam blasted, onto replacing floor pans next. Have decided to go with original 18 gauge steel instead of thinner ones.

I now need to start putting in some orders for chassis parts, does anyone have experience with the different suppliers?

- vw heritage
- Volks.com.au
- just campers
- dasresto parts
- Mick motors

USA
- Wolfsburg west
- CIP1

????

Any help on quality, pricing, reliability would be much appreciated.

Cheers


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