| [ Total Views: 1457 | Total Replies: 18 | Thread Id: 93932 ] |
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 thebullfrog
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| posted on November 21st, 2011 at 08:22 PM |
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Stainless lines
Firstly, last exam finnished today of grade 12...freedom.
Now to business, engine is out, body is about to come off.
The question is how difficult is it to run stainless fuel lines, if you've never done it before, i've watched a few videos and read several articles
and have noted that the tunnel is the most difficult place to run the lines, also, for a bigger motor (1916 or higher).
What kind of additions do i need for the standard system, is it only a return/delivery line??
Are there any pre-cautions that need to be made, i have little knowledge on this topic.
Thanks,
Jeremy
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vlad01
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 05:05 PM |
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yes it can be done but requires careful planning and cutting access holes in the tunnel and welding them back. Placement of the lines is important! so
it doesn't interfere with shifter rod, hand brake stuffs and other cables.
As for holding in the lines, probably good idea to copy what vw have done with the stock lines. Or clamping blocks like what you see under most
modern/semi modern cars
I plan to do the same thing eventually and also silver braze AN bungs/fittings on the ends of them.
you just need 2 lines, supply and return, for efi that is. only one line for carby.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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thebullfrog
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 09:27 PM |
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Where can these be purchased from (links)? What sort of lengths are required and are there any ways around cutting into the tunnel. DO any connecters
need to be purchased and what kind?
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vlad01
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| posted on November 22nd, 2011 at 10:00 PM |
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hydraulic places may have them?
ebay 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8-AN8-Male-Stainless-Steel-Weld-Fitting-Bung-/1706...
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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HappyDaze
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| posted on November 23rd, 2011 at 07:08 AM |
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Be aware that stainless steel will work-harden [and break] if it is not well supported, and allowed to vibrate.
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
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vlad01
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| posted on November 23rd, 2011 at 05:21 PM |
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there is nothing wrong with mild steel so thats an option too and probably the better one.
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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thebullfrog
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| posted on November 23rd, 2011 at 10:52 PM |
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Thanks guys, its a bit to consider, how do those connectors work, does anyone happen to have pictures of these on or being fitted?
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vwo60
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 07:20 AM |
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Congradulations, in reality your freedom is now finnished and you can look foward to a life of servitude, on your subject, you will need to deceide
what you want to actually want to achive, fuel injection, carbs, etc, etc. that will determine if you even need to change anything, if you want to
change the line in the tunnel the only option is to cut access holes into it and weld them up after you have finnished as stated by a previous reply.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 08:56 AM |
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Freedom is the world of the month at the moment 
What i want to achieve:
EDIT: After speaking to Nino of Bocchino motors, he has turned me, he suggested one of his 1850cc's motor that putsout 165hp. Its not only has a
decent power put its also prown to not breaking down.
Being able to put out a decent amount of power and be able to highway cruise at 100+kmph.
Engine will more then likly be a Pobjoy engine.
I have no knowledge in engine building and the pickup and feed lines involved.
looking forward to my knowledge being broadened.
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vwo60
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 05:26 PM |
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If Stan builds you a engine he can guide you on the fuel line requirements, the 1850 CC motor with 165HP output is optimistic, to build any vw engine
with that power is very expensive.
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vassy66T1
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 06:54 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vwo60
If Stan builds you a engine he can guide you on the fuel line requirements, the 1850 CC motor with 165HP output is optimistic, to build any vw engine
with that power is very expensive.
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ditto that.
Cheap
Power
Longevity (lasting)
Choose 2 only.
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thebullfrog
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 08:30 PM |
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There are many options to choose from, and we could talk about it forever. However the 1850 comes in at a bit under 5 figures and is built with power
and longetivity in mind.
With that in mind now, i will also give Stan a call and speak to him in regards to this as well.
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vwo60
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 09:48 PM |
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I would like to see the 165 HP reading on a dyno, like i said power does not come cheap and you can spend five grand on a basic motor, carbs for that
would cost two grand. had a look on the samba and this 1915 CC engine with no exhaust, clutch and running standard cylinder heads costs $4295US.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=488765
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Craig Torrens
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| posted on November 24th, 2011 at 10:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by thebullfrog
There are many options to choose from, and we could talk about it forever. However the 1850 comes in at a bit under 5 figures and is built with power
and longetivity in mind.
With that in mind now, i will also give Stan a call and speak to him in regards to this as well.
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$6500 will get you about 65hp atw with stan, its about $100/HP from him.
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 matberry
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| posted on November 25th, 2011 at 08:24 AM |
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You have a pic of the fuel line under the fuel tank with the hose perrished and broken on p1 of your members rides thread. Here you describe it as
'The fatigued connecter which had done 40 years of service' It's no connector, just hose that slips onto the steel pipe, take the hose off and
replace with new VW hose (5mm) and bigger lines are'nt really required untill you have some real serious horse power, even 165 could run stock pipes.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
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thebullfrog
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| posted on November 25th, 2011 at 10:05 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by matberry
You have a pic of the fuel line under the fuel tank with the hose perrished and broken on p1 of your members rides thread. Here you describe it as
'The fatigued connecter which had done 40 years of service' It's no connector, just hose that slips onto the steel pipe, take the hose off and
replace with new VW hose (5mm) and bigger lines are'nt really required untill you have some real serious horse power, even 165 could run stock pipes.
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Thanks for that mat, ill get some new 5mm vw hose, thats what i want to hear in regards to if i have the NEED to run bigger lines.
Thanks Craig, $100/hp is an easy way to remember it for sure.
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TCS_58
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| posted on December 31st, 2011 at 06:25 PM |
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Well in that case I'll be spending 25-30,000 on mine haha
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vlad01
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| posted on January 1st, 2012 at 08:55 PM |
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haha so a stock engine is 5000-6500?
really? if so, thats ridiculous!
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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DubbyDo
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| posted on April 23rd, 2012 at 11:49 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vlad01
haha so a stock engine is 5000-6500?
really? if so, thats ridiculous!
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AS Craig said At The Wheels (ATW) Which from memory is roughly 2/3 of flywheel horsepower. So your stock 1600TP at 59HP is only
pumping out roughly 40HP ATW. So 65HP ATW could be up to 97-98HP. Correct me if I'm wrong, the only thing I am 100% about is you lose HP through the
drivetrain
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