| [ Total Views: 1152 | Total Replies: 9 | Thread Id: 96031 ] |
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 bugzla
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 posted on March 26th, 2012 at 06:31 AM |
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saco hydraulic clutch
has any body used one or have any pics of their install looking at a hydrlaulic set up for my manx sick joined cable.
cheers
stevo
Townsville
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on March 26th, 2012 at 01:05 PM |
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try a search on Volkszone.com. I've seen a few people do a hidden design inside the tunnel. Bit tricky but once in you can forget about it. Also
means that you don't have to extend the pedal lever outside of the tunnel.
madness is in the eye of the beholder  |
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MickH
A.k.a.: Michael Hutchinson
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| posted on March 26th, 2012 at 02:03 PM |
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be nice to Adam,he has oned installed.
tssnq.com.au
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on March 26th, 2012 at 06:08 PM |
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ha ha, I just looked at the Saco kit and the guy in the UK made that himself for a lot less than $250 plus $55 shipping.
its a nice bit of kit so up to him really
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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bugzla
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| posted on March 26th, 2012 at 07:33 PM |
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would like to catch up with adam can you give me his email or number as i no longer have it on my phone would love to catch up with him
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Adsman
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| posted on March 27th, 2012 at 11:48 AM |
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PM sent with my number 
SACO kit doesn't work out of the box. Master cylinder height is wrong, the angle for center of travel through the stroke is off allowing binding and
the spacing off the tunnel is wrong as well. Also the threaded fitting on the cylinder are crappy soft alloy. If you look at the link below you will
see the mods I made. It does feel light and good but I reserve my opinion until I get the motor running to check the preload. Currently set up by
measurements off the spare gearbox.
The positive is that the slave cylinder with the heim joint mounting kit works perfectly and the flex line through the tunnel was easy to install. I
do prefer hard lines still. Also installed system using silicone fluid so that leaks inside the tunnel don't cause rust issues.
http://dunebuggyandbajaadventures.freeforums.org/supa-sports-buggy-t1206-45.html
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
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psimitar
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
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| posted on March 27th, 2012 at 08:51 PM |
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ah, probably why the UK guy made his own brackets etc
Good job tho
madness is in the eye of the beholder |
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Adsman
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| posted on March 27th, 2012 at 09:55 PM |
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As you can see I believe in using what you've got. The bracket could have been done tidier using a folding machine and slightly thicker plate but
that would cost more money. The folded edges are only to add strength to the thin plate I used. If people are going to make a bracket up its probably
worth using 2-2.4mm stainless plate and folding a 10mm reinforcing edge to keep it neater.
I bent up my plate using an old piece of I-beam and an angle iron with g-clamps holding the plate. Then went for the old flog it method of bending
As for buying a kit. From memory it worked out better to buy the kit then buying the parts separately. Replacing the fitting requires NPT/BSP thread
adapters and fittings, cost about $10. Since I have the stainless and made my own bracket it cost about $340 to convert, including the cost of a
bottle of silicone brake fluid which is Expensive!
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
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Adsman
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| posted on March 27th, 2012 at 10:19 PM |
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From memory it was about $140 for the slave cylinder and the heim joint mounting kit posted.
A master cylinder that can universally mount (from different supplier) was around $120 + post.
Hard line with fittings $25
Reservoir, lines/fittings and brackets $?
Basically if you put in the effort you can do it for less.
What my garage isn't messy........Well chaos is a form of order isn't it?
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cb john
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| posted on March 28th, 2012 at 08:20 PM |
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I'm using basic Formula Vee clutch setup which is 3/4 " generic master cylinder / Repco / and Wilwood slave.Works perfect, but the hard part is
modifying the pedal assembly and relocating brake master cylinder to the right to allow mounting of the clutch master in line with the clutch pedal.
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