My sons 1500 has a cracked block so need a new engine.
We are thinking of getting a turnkey 1916 from Stan Pobjoy. At $8k it is expensive enough...
The other option is a new long single port motor... one that will last!
The thing is we were quoted $4.5k for a 1641 long single port motor the block is new and from Brazil and rebuilt other major components. So for a extra $3.5k we could get a Stan complete engine...
Is $4.5k about right for a 1641 single port long motor with lots of new parts and reliability is essential. ?.
Is there a trusted builder that could build a good solid 1641 single port...
I don't mind spending money as long as I get a good product and the quote I got was from a local vw builder and I didn't like it when he said that Brasil vw engine parts were good including conrods. Which I really want to stick with good bits... I just lost confidence in some of his comments..
1641 engines use a standard bore block so the extra ccs come from larger bores in 1600 cylinder barrels this results in cylinders with thinner walls and can be a problem as they don't handle heat as well.
I would prefer a 1600 over a 1641 for this reason or get the case machined for larger barrels and go 1916 or 1776 or whatever which are walled like a 1600.
1641 engines are a a way of a very slight increase in a budget fashion as the case does not need splitting and machining.
Stan has a good rep and loves a chat , Rod Penrose on here is worth talking to as are a few others .
Mitchell
waltermitty wrote:1641 engines use a standard bore block so the extra ccs come from larger bores in 1600 cylinder barrels this results in cylinders with thinner walls and can be a problem as they don't handle heat as well.
I would prefer a 1600 over a 1641 for this reason or get the case machined for larger barrels and go 1916 or 1776 or whatever which are walled like a 1600.
1641 engines are a a way of a very slight increase in a budget fashion as the case does not need splitting and machining.
Stan has a good rep and loves a chat , Rod Penrose on here is worth talking to as are a few others .
Mitchell
Thanks Mitchell,
Well again you proven my suspicion that this local builder was sus he suggestsd a 1641 and now that I remember when I called Stan he advised against 1641 for those same reasons... 🙂 and yes Stan was happy to talk to me.. 🙂
I hadn't actually known of Rod Penrose until recently so I will give them a call also.. the thing is the diffence will be roughly the cost for a long verses complete engine as I think the building will be of the same quality just the bits on top... bottom line is reliability is paramount.
Btw I read about Stan Pobjoy about 30 years ago in a vw mag when I lived in NZ'd he was welding counter weights on cranks then and I suppose the thought of having one of his engines has gotten me a little nostalgic. 🙂
I will be selling a 1679cc thick wall soon, pm me if you are interested.
Definitely stay away from 1641cc even if some engines seem to work and have survived abuse.
There is no doubting the reliability of Stans builds. he is set in his ways and it might be difficult for you to get him to build something other than his prescription.
I would resist however his insistence re twin hadrons as I don't like them and would prefer other options.
Rod Penrose also is well respected and has built many engines including some that have been the fastest in the world .
They are however by no means the only builders worth looking.
M
stans motors are good, we have a old one with webbers, its a bit camy for the street as when the power comes on she goes .
runs 15 over the 1/4 all day long . no need for 8 spark plugs .
😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲
Plenty and including the above mentioned engine builders are worth considering, what you need to do is figure out your needs, HP requirement, realistic purpose of the car and budget.
X 2 on twin plugs, IMO not worth the effort and money, spend it on a gearbox and stopping power.
Thank you all for your coments... I showed these to my son and he is determined to get a 1916 engine. Guess we'll be either talking some more to Stan or give Rod a call. Thanks again... btw had a look at Rods web site and it is very well put together easy to navigate and has lots of info... worth the effort 🙂 ...
Do continue to add comments as I'll be watching this tread...
Rang Rod to enquire about a new case as I have been recommended to start with by other reputable engine builders. Rod went on to enquire what model Beetle I had (1976) he then explained that if it still had the original engine case it would be an AS21 compound. In his words "the best case VW ever made. I could sell you a new case, but I would be ripping you off unless your old case cannot be rebuilt."
For Sale 1970 VW beetle, Monza red in colour. Fuel injected 2213 stroker engine with recent top end rebuild including brand new heads with long throw spark plugs low klms since rebuild.
Haltech engine management. Gene berg stroker crank (90.5 mm bore x 86mm stroke), berg oil coiler, new high amp alternator,Type 3 gearbox with lock out shifter, genuine 16 inch (hand polished) porsche fuchs wheels , saas seats. New running boards. Porsche 944 front discs drum rear. A lot of dollars spent located at salamander bay (near newcastle nsw) $13000 no silly offers thanks regretful sale only selling as Iam moving on to another project. Phone 0413521516
More boost + More fuel = More power
1968 Beetle fastest run 8.96 sec @ 161 mph 4th Nov. 2001
2010 New Beetle 8.12 sec on 8th march 2014 http://www.rodpenroseracing.com.au
Dont forget its not just the cost of the engine if you go down the higher performance route.
You then need to look at fitting better brakes and suspension, if you have twice the original power you need twice the original braking power.
Brad heard from Rod the other day and his new 1916 is nearly finished And may get on the dyno this week.... if not no biggy as the wait will be worth it... we had to take it off the road 4 weeks ago as there was about 250mls of oil leaking out of the crack every day and had left a trail up the street and into our driveway.... But gave me plenty of time to strip the back and do some body and paint work as well as tidying up a few bits including new boots, trans mounts and wiring....
All that is left to do is get rid of the regulator under the back seat do some wiring as we are getting an alternator with the new engine...
