i think jenny is doing a subaru conversion thats why dave. But i was told for my V6 the standard cable clutch is fine!
or you could find a 411 or 412 box and adapt it they have hydraulic clutches!!
cheers
rhys
kombi_kid wrote:u wouldnt be using the suby clutch etc anyway!!!unless ofcourse ur using a suby g'box
cheers
rhys
Why not ? We are using the mazda clutch with the V6 conversion and VW transmission.
Jenny, you can do it and it ain't that hard. A few places around do a kit like CBB in Sydney. I have hydraulics on my Manx as I went underslung pedals and all sorts of other crap that people told me not too. :P:P
I don't know what clutch the PO has put in my Eureka. I do know that it takes an awful lot of muscle to push the clutch pedal to the floor! The receipts he gave me include one from Indian Automotive for a clutch kit @ $454, which was purchased at the same time as the adaptor plate & flywheel ($420) gearbox mounts, bonder tube (bowden? his hand writing is shocking) and gearchange coupling.
The receipts also show the gearbox is from an L bug and was reconditioned and 'beefed up' by Indian Automotive for $1500.
Is it a very heavy spring feeling or is it stiff to push in as well and does it come back up fast and smoothly? Could be a clutch cable tube full of crap or rusty or broken/frayed cable? 🙁
One of my rotary setups uses the Mazda clutch in an extension type bellhousing and its clutch is pretty heavy and actually has an over-centre feel to it which makes it hard to take off without stalling it or dropping a burnout. 😀
The PO had installed a new clutch cable and bowden (?) tube thingy that attaches to the transaxle housing. It is not hydraulic, but because it is quite difficult to push all the way in I thought it may pay to convert to hydraulic. The receipts don't say whether this clutch kit was an original item, but if it shouldn't be that hard then maybe its an uprated item?
56 astro, yes that was what the PO paid. He first told me that it was a Porsche box then when he got out the receipts it turned out to be an L bug box, which had been beefed up with some Porsche parts. I think he got ripped-off. I almost felt guilty when I bought the unfinished Eureka project off him at less than a quarter of what he'd spent on it...
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
If everything in your clutch system is OK and its hard to depress because it has a heavy duty pressure plate, we lenghten the clutch arm on the gearbox 1/2 an inch by cutting and shutting using another arm.A lot less pedal effort but a small loss of travel-adjust the pedal pivot forward to bring the clutch pedal pad closer to you.
My Eureka clutch saga continues...
A couple of people have had a look at my setup and said that my bowden tube thingy doesn't look right - not enough slack?
Looking back through the receiprts I see that this '68 beetle chassis was originally a semi-auto that has been converted to a manual, so I have a couple of questions:
1. Do the bowden tubes come in different lengths - can I take this one out and replace it with a longer one, or
2. Do I have to lengthen the tube that comes out the tunnel where the bowden tube sits in?
if there is not enough bend in the bowden tube, then you will need to shim the end of it with washers. The end on the gearbox will have a metal part on it that will accomodate the washers and make sure their is enough bend in it. Also check that the bowden tube isnt broken at all because if it is then the bend will be wrong. It should bend like a slight S.
Steven