Some pics of the final test assembly-have stripped it out now.It is booked in on Jan.5th for a swim in an acid tank to get rid of the funeral car look.Its going to be Double Yellow to be a mate for my New Beetle.
This will be going in when it returns
very very nice nb look forward to seeing it when finished
stuipid beetle breaks everytime i drive it.....
Very nice! Love the German look 😎
Still love the funeral car look too 😉
Will make a mad ride, dude :thumb
those fenders on an oval makes baby jesus cry 🙁
Hi nb turbo,
nice car, does that mean that u have the original fenders & W decklid. If so and your willing to sell em, U2u me, its xmas after all!
:tree:party:tree
mirp mirp went the hair lipped dog
hey Himmell,
I've got a W decklid, and a good LH F guard.
Most people seem normal, till you get to know them.
Hi turbo,
Just a thought about acid dipping; I have heard that if you acid dip a car there are ALWAYS places that your spray painter can't get to and that leaves bare metal exposed anfd that means.......rust.......or are you going to dip the car in paint like thay did at the factory?
Just my 2cents worth!
Have fun with the rest of the resto.
Regards
Mike
Yeah, check into media blasting dude.
Harsh call about the guards, Cray. I think aero guards look mad!!! I like it (a couple of things I'd change) but it's NBTurbo's car and kudos to him for building it properly and how he likes.:thumb
I reckon it has a wide body Porsche look to it, which I like. 'cause I like nice curves (asthetically) and cars that can take 'em (the road variety)😎
The mob doing the acid dip will be applying an etch primer to whole car-it's the same as the black stuff you see on new body panels.I had the sunroof panel bead blasted-I told the prick how rare these are and how much care needed to be taken and he still managed to warp it-the panel beater went off his head because he had looked at first and couldn't believe how straight it WAS,and it was his suggestion to blast it.Yes I still have all the guards and deck lid.I bought it with the original rear guards inside as it had fibreglass ones fitted to cover the Porsche mags,but the deck lid has been louvered.I will be using the guards on my next project.
Forgot this-I have also booked it to have Endrust squirted into all the areas where they rust before the painter gets to it. Will go into the heater channels,especially up front where the pipes come off for the winscreen demisters.
When thats finished, you wont want the nb.
Too Cool.... 😎
Steven
nbturbo wrote:...I have also booked it to have Endrust squirted into all the areas where they rust before the painter gets to it. ...
It's looking very nice!
Is that the right order (endrust --> paint) or should it be vice-versa (paint --> endrust) in case the endrust drools and stops some paint adhering properly?
hth
Peter Hill
1975 Type 2 Double Cab
modulus.com.auawesome! what wheels are those?
kahn?
Nice looking car with Aerolook guards
Hi nb,
Looks like things are moving along with your oval. Keep up the great work!!
Cheers
We were going that route on our oval but some deadshite stole the guards ,He was an in the know loser because he moved 4 other guards off the pile and took the aeros from the bottom.
We know who it is and are waiting for the right moment or for the goods to be returned
Looks extremely good
Reguards Harko
Sorry-been to Adelaide for Xmas.They are Speedies,17x8 Holotype with Ford stud pattern.I cut the Speedie logo from the plastic locating bung in the centre and machined up 4 aluminium discs (1.5mm thick) the same diameter and got a signwriter to make up the VW logo.It's made from a reflector type material which makes them glow at night.I just used silicone to stick them back on to the original plastic locater.
Sorry to hear about that-a real pain in the arse because I know how much you had invested. You should not have them stored under other things because they are so thin and would be easily damaged.I don't have a lot of room for storage so have to keep them inside our Mitsubishi van until the painter will take them.Do you reckon the Prick who took yours will try to use them or sell them on?Good luck with situation.
Have you grafted the sunroof section into the roof yet???
Have you got all the bits. make sure you add the drain tubes into it as well. they were origionaly lengths of plastic tubing
No-will be done after it's been dipped-the whole back half of the frame is only glued to the original roof section.It's actually only welded to the body around the opening.I kept all the original drain tubes which are still in good nick,but will replace them.I haven't decided where to run them yet- might alter where the front ones go.
Yes-getting a rush of blood.I am back into the fuel injection again.Have made up a surge tube for the tank and its being welded in at the moment-will pick up early next week.I finally got the tank back last week from another crowd who were welding in a ring for the guage unit-they had it for at least 12 months and what a bastard of a job.I asked for it to be Tig welded so it would be neat looking and they had some young prick weld it with Mig who obviously needs lessons.As I told the bastards,I have a Mig and could have done a job that bad-thats why it went there.Any how have found some one else with a Tig and asked if I could watch him weld-his work is good.I am making a new intake manifold and have found a different method of holding down the injectors.Am using a bakelite looking clamp from a 6 cyl. Nissan which means the fuel rail can be more flexible to allow a better fit into the engine bay.Still using 4 lt Ford injectors but have machined off the plastic that holds the O ring for the fuel rail and can just push a hose over it and clamp it off.The injectors can now come around a bit towards the front of the car and won't hit on the body.Will keep you posted
This will have a bottom welded to it and hang out of tank 50mm.Fittings will face L.H. side of car
The front tubes ran down into the front pillar area and drained into there. thats a good place but i would expand the opening by cutting the whole lower section of the pillar away so water escapes easy.
therear went into the section beside the rear seat from memory so make sure the drain holes on the lower sill section are clear. I would use the stock positions for the drains.
Thats what I didn't like-so will run the fronts out into the front wheel well area.Where they go thru' the body will use rubber grommets and run the tube down to the floor pan level.The rears of this car ran into cavity behind the rear side trims.I thought I may be able to let them drop into the engine bay and run out like the later big window drain tubes did.
yeah you could do that for the rears ... longer tube required... but its only plastic i dont think that would be a problem.
didnt the front go into the pillar area ???
Yes-but it had all rusted out so couldn't even figure how they meant for the water to escape.That area is always pressure with rusting so figure will keep sunroof water away.The rear had also rusted out but it looked like it just fell into that cavity and couldn't see how it was meant to get away.I would like to see it drain away outside of the body.It's easy and with grommets stops water getting back in.Main job I think would be to make sure the drain openings up top are always clear especially if they are parked under trees.Mine will always be put in the shed with a cover
So your grafting the sunroof into an Oval shell.... What distance are you going to fit it from the front screen,??? I think this would be critical as you need to get in the right area...
Not using the windscreen for a reference point.We are using the "B" pillar and measuring forward.There will be a larger area between the top of screen and to the opening of the roof because of the smaller front screen.
