The beam is coming out of the bus to be played with and hopefully narrowed. It has been a while since anyone has been in and around this as you can see.. We are looking to get this out. Getting it out is another thing. Anyone help me with getting the steering arm off the front end? Undid the nut(and split pin) but the arm won't come up and therefore out.. Anyway..
End of another day. Tracking down type 3 rear to go in these holidays as well, so hopefully we might see some action with mods there too..
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
you da man
Scott R.
PRAISE THE LOWERED
What type of rear swing or irs jim?
N!
Rear swing...
Can anyone help with that steering arm and removing it from the beam itself?
Jim,
You need to buy a tie rod end breaking tool - not the pickle fork variety but the one with 'jaws' and a bolt you screw down to pop it (can drag one out and take photo if I really have to).
Generic one that will work is about $20 - $30 at any auto store like autobahn etc
RobK
Really? Just to get this one bolt out of the hole it is in?
Man that sucks, but anyway. Wouldn't mind a pic if you could please Rob. And I haven't forgotten about you either Rob..
another way is to place a dolly (or heavy hammer head, a lump hammer would be good) on one side and give the opposite side a good hit with another hammer. the pin (the bit the nut goes on) fits in a taper and a thump with the hammer on opposing sides momentarily opens the hole part enuf to release the friction grip in the taper. When done properly, the bit with the pin part just pops up and is easily lifted out. good luck.
they took me away haha, hope the medication works
space is a bit tight for any shock stuff Tony
.....hammering often leads to mechanical disaster and/or personal injury!
(but then experience is the best teacher too Jim......)
RobK
p.s. the toll will be handy to undo yer tie rods ends too. You won't actually get the drag link out unless you undo the steering box end as well. You won't get the beam out unless you remove the drag link completely (and the front shift rod for that matter as well)....
You need a manual too Jim methinks.
RobK
yeh, just buy the tool, you will find yourself using it all the time once you've got one!!!!
good luck, it's always a challange removing parts which havn't budged for far too many years😀
kai
i have same prob with LH tierod.
undo castle nut, spin it round- secure top with lever down,
hammer up from bottom on castle nut....
no go...
RH side fell apart but LH is stuuuck
Never ever hit the nut up, you'll do more harm than good.
You can see from the pic where it's been hit before & that's where YOU hit it.
If you want to keep the tie rod end, put the nut back on so if you have a miss you get the nut not the thread.
Well my friends are gone & my hair is grey, I ache in the places where I used to play.
Hi JIM
Its really best to get a manual and also use the tool, it is $20-$30 but as people have said before, you will get your moneys worth out of it.
And NEVER hit a threaded rod with a hammer, always put the nut on and hit that.
Welcome to the joys of owning a splitty,
I am used to doubleing the time I think things will take .
And also double or triple the amount of cash you think it will cost.
But it will be worht it in the end, if that ever arrives.
Cheers from
Mr Cynical.:jesus
Dave
tool for breaking (err - that's releasing) tie rod ends etc etc
RobK
you arent perhaps mounting the type 3 rear higher than the stock rear would you . . .. . thus giving you a drop and keping susp geometry the same....... just a thought, dont know how much room there is but it'd be just like channeling the rear 🙂
Adam, this is the front.
Thanks folks. I'll go get one of those jigger-ma-whosey-whatsits...
I'll let you know.
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
Good stuff Jim keep it up.
Back into it today. Firstly, my hotty new fridge, and getting closer to the end product. It was cream, you probably know the type..
The goal is to have it Matt Black, which I finished today, as you'll see, but also have flames coming from the bottom, but only on the bottom half. Anyway, the chrome is okay, but not great. The actual mechanics of the fridge are okay, after I replaced the electrical plug, see pics, I plugged it in, and away she goes!! Nearly finished, but not quite...
Still a bit to go, other than the flames I mean, but its getting there..
yeh, i know jim hehe, i meant the rear end tho??
Nah, the same. They have to be mounted the same, and modified and so fourth..
http://home.no.net/jhu/Biler%20page/Swingaxel.htmOne of the first things I did today was go buy one of those tie roddy thingies.. Then wrapped it on the bolt in question, a few turns later, and VIOLA!! Man this thing is awesome.
There was some carnage however, the shift rod tube was our first casualty of war.. Upon closer inspection, it was rusted pretty badly internally, so it was bound to happen sooner or later anyway.
Therefore, the grinder came out, and cut the tube, and the beam dropped a little further... Anyone got a spare shift rod tube? 🙂
I then pondered how the hell to disconnect the brakes, as the cable is literally holding the beam up. Couldn't wrap my head around how to undo the pin that connects the cable to the brake pedal assembly, so I decided to get into the tie rods.
Is this normal? A third shock?
BenettonVW wrote:Is this normal? A third shock?
steering damper
😉
kai
Of course! Guess I've never been under a bus and pondered before.. Just looked wierd..
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
there should be a steering damper on a beetle and a notch aswell .
when I changed beams I undid the linkpins and left the spindles and wheels connected to the brake lines and sat them on crates I didn't see the need to do more work than neccesary.
Oh! and when the beam comes out keep an eye out for shims on the chassis and try to put them back the same way I believe they are important for alignment
Keeping it real !
Ahh.. I wondered that. Disconnecting the brake cable? (I would think it would be some sort of rear brakes cable that is other than the handbrake.. I know how stupid that sounds.. Maybe it is the clutch cable.. I am getting confused now.. 🙁 )
As you can see, I still have my learners with buses..
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
You will have to diaconnect the two Handbrake cables( at the base of the lever in the cab) also the clutch cable and the shift rod (replace the shift rod nylon bush when you put it back) and presto the beam should come out
have fun
S
Keeping it real !
