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running-in oil

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oval TOFU Bitte, ein Bit!

2,946 posts · joined Jul 2003 ·

#134251
I tried a search on this topic but it evades me... What oil should I use (engine) for running-in? I know oil for this specific purpose exists, I havent seen any for some time - not 'non-friction modified oil?

I've read in 'Drive' (The Age) that the first oil change should be at about 500Ks then 1000ks, then every 5000ks...


comments? opinions?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...

Astro Boy Seriously Crusin Dubber

154 posts · joined Jun 2003 ·

#134255
is this a brand new engine or a reco. and in what VW. personally i would Castrol GTX 2 all year round for VW's but someone will probably correct me.
Save water, drive an air cooled Volkswagen.

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,789 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#134257
You can get Penzoil running in oil. Think it is a straight 30 weight

read here

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/engnbrkn.htm

but basically

The FIRST oil change should be straight away... like after 15 mins of cam break in.

The drive it hard for say 50 km.
Oil change

and again

Than at 500kms

Then 5000


TTFN

Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!

Craig Torrens 6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion

8,040 posts · joined Jan 2003 ·

#134320
Astro Boy wrote:is this a brand new engine or a reco. and in what VW. personally i would Castrol GTX 2 all year round for VW's but someone will probably correct me.
I agree :thumb

Running in oil :jesus

What I did was run my motor for about a minute or two and then dumped the oil. I did this about 3 times. The third time I ran the motor for about 5mins .
I then did 1000k's and replaced the oil, this being the first service.
Then every 5000K's

This was using GTX 2, although I now run the car on Formulae R (GP50).


70AutoStik Insano Dub Head

730 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#134353
Penrite have a "Running-in" oil, it is non-friction-modified (still multigrade, but without the long-chain modifier additives) and has zinc diophosphate (might have spelled that wrong) to aid in the surface hardening of the cam. For the main part this happens in the first twenty (or 15) minutes of life as you hold it at 3000rpm (or 2500, or half the designed redline - depends who you talk to.) You then dump the oil and refill it, many recommend the next change-out (of the second half of the running-in oil) at 1500km, but I think you're pretty safe with the 500km suggestion.

The only cams I know of that don't need any running in are the extremely expensive hard-welded and/or pre-run cams used by professional strip racers (their engines don't live long enough for a running in procedure to be practical...) But suggestions of how that is to be done vary widely, even from very reliable sources. Blue74l's suggestion is how we always did it in the old days (our rings and honing weren't that good back then, so we had to,) but there have been reports of aftermarket cams failing or going flat with such procedures in recent years.

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#134380
we have runnng in oil here in Sydney its lighter in viscosity so it tens to penetrate better, let me know if you want some
I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

Che Castro ankle straps

1,945 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#134438
yeah I used penzoil running in oil when i rebuilt my engine. changed oil and filter straight after cam break in - you can see all the metal particles in the oil when its in the sun. changed again after 50 , then 500, and 5000.

now i'm using Penrite HPR-10, its a 10-50w semi-synthetic. the thinner viscosity doesnt put as much pressure on the oil lines and seals during start up. It holds oil pressure better at operating temp than valvoline 20-50w.
Jon

oval TOFU Bitte, ein Bit!

2,946 posts · joined Jul 2003 ·

#134464
Its a 1500 going into a beetle...

I'm only getting new P&C's and reco-ed heads... so I won't have to dump the oil after 15 mins of run in?

So.. firstly, use the run-in oil and dump at firt interval, then use the normal stuff? -or use the run-in stuff for the first two intervals and then the normal oil?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#134485
Only use the Run in Oil for the first 500 miles or 1000klms. Dump it and use what ever oil you intend to use.
I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

Che Castro ankle straps

1,945 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#134870
the purpose of the run in oil is to let all the wear surfaces of the engine (such as the bearings, journals, piston rings, cylinders, cam lobes, lifters etc.) wear against each other to sort of machine in itself to a perfect fit. Run in oil doesnt have additives to lower friction - so it helps in the process
Jon

oval TOFU Bitte, ein Bit!

2,946 posts · joined Jul 2003 ·

#134886
Yeh, I knew the low friction-reducing qualities of run-in oil, just wanted to clarify how long to use it. So, cheers fellas!

Dak on!

So, what's a good oil to use? heheh
Just kidding... I know oil stuff... phew! that could've been a long thread!😀
...and Robert's ya father's brother...