One of the big problems with an IRS rear end is the shock canisters and the way they hang down and catch on things. There is several methods for dealing with this. The one that I find the best and easiest to do is simply modifying it by an inch and tapering it backwards. This allows you to still run the factory shocks and get full travel from the rear end. If you are notching your spring plate or modifying your bump stop to get that extra few inches it will also mean stock shocks are still long enough.
Basically you cut out the flat area above the shock mount holes and then weld it up again. I will get some better pictures of a set I am doing soon and show exactly where to cut. Until then you should get the idea from the finished product. No metal is added and it really is a simple thing to do.
The finished product, you can see the difference. This is free ground clearance.
The front is tapered backwards to assist in sliding over things.
Make sure you test fit the shock and ensure you don't limit its movemnet
Enough.:P The big problem is when they get caught they take weight of your drive wheel which in turns means you are stuck ... which is very uncool.
:cry
so do you want lots of pics taken when I set up my high mount shock set up Brad??
for anyone not in the know, I have an early link/king pan with notched, irs, bus trans rear (fairly high) and because of the very nice exhaust I have clearence probs with the shocks, so going with a high mount set up is cheaper and more effective than building a new exhaust..
Desert Moose wrote:hey Brad lookin' good but lol , did you do the top mount as well or have you lost shock travel
What is Shock travel ??? I am guessing the amount of up and down movement a shock has when bolted to the suspension. If so then yes I have lost 25mm of it.
BUT ,..... I have lost no wheel travel and that is all I care about. The stock length Monroe Gas Shock works fine and allows my trailing arm to swing through the full arc.
I have left my bottom spring plate stopper in place as I don't need any more wheel travel and wanted to leave as much stock as possible. I can get another 40mm or lift out of the rear if I want by moving it down and still retain stock shocks and mounting position.
I have type 2 CV's on both ends of my axle. With Porsche stubs on the outside to allow
What is Shock travel ??? I am guessing the amount of up and down movement a shock has when bolted to the suspension. If so then yes I have lost 25mm of it.
BUT ,..... I have lost no wheel travel and that is all I care about. The stock length Monroe Gas Shock works fine and allows my trailing arm to swing through the full arc.
I have left my bottom spring plate stopper in place as I don't need any more wheel travel and wanted to leave as much stock as possible. I can get another 40mm or lift out of the rear if I want by moving it down and still retain stock shocks and mounting position.
I have type 2 CV's on both ends of my axle. With Porsche stubs on the outside to allow [/quote]
Cool. I'm not that good with stock arms/ spring plates.
And I see your point about stock stuff ( its easy to buy if you stuff it on a trip). Plus if you did lose any travel you would make it up on ground clearance.
Hey Brad, I don't suppose yopu ahve the pics to show exactly where to cut do you? I can see roughly how much it is so there is no real hassle. Just wondering cos I am doign this in the next few days.
Jamox, have you done this yet...???
If not, check out how we did mine..
IRS, boxed trailing arms, Very simple to do, (email me for full details) and while they were being boxed we cut the ugly shockie mounts off and moved them to high mounts on TOP of the trailing arms, set them up for double shocks per side if I want to put another set on later..
Top mount is incoperated into the rear top bar of the engine cage and this bar plumbs through the wheel well and into the rear section of the full cage..
It's a bit of work, but if you're going full on, it's the best way I could find of setting up your rear shock...
Have a look..
I hate to admit it, but man, I think you're right....
Struth Danny! I like the sound of it but just thinking about it gives me the shivers.
I have already done my mods. I made the kombi kit, transferred all my suspension bits, modified stuff, put it all bak in and WALLA! Stuffed mainshaft bearing in the gearbox.
It still makes me want to cry. I am so dissapointed. At least it isn't goign to be too hard to get the engine and gearbox out. How hard is it to change a mainshafdt bearing?
Anyway, that is why I might give the shockie mods a miss for a bit. THat and the fact that I would have to make a roolcage (are they legal???) cut holes in my car (jeepers) and probably stuff it and end up with an alfoil ball.
So yeh. THanks for the idea, I would love to have a looka t your set up; and I will one of these days.
Well one day I might come for a drive down to Dumbleflung and suprise you...:P
Oh, forgot to mention... My car is a convertable as you know, now they are required by law to have a roll bar, so I thought, why not stretch the frendship a bit, and make it a full race cage...?!?!?
I mean, it can only make the car Safer..... Right...???😎
[Edited on 12-1-2005 by WABaja]
I hate to admit it, but man, I think you're right....
