they are contact patches where the bearing has been sitting. the case could be out of round, or the crank journal ovaled. bolt the case together without the crank and check it with an inside micrometer, and check the crank also.
don't stress too much as odd contact patches under bearings are pretty normal, as it shows which angle the crank bearing is under the most load. it's always a good idea to check that everything is as round as it should be when you have a motor apart 🙂
look at the colour on your bearing shell ! worn in one area more than the other.
You also need to make sure that all the bearing cradles (holes) are in a straight line. No good if they are all perfectly round but they are not perfectly lined up with each other.
I took it to get it checked and crank balanced. Now I am told the case is bad. When the 2 halves are bolted together, the flat areas (circled in red) inside the case are not coming all the way together. You can just see a small gap. I was told the case need to be "faced" and line bored. I poured a lot of money in this engine already so its giving me the real sh!ts now. What do you reckon?
Check it yourself, take the centre main bearing out, take the old rubber seals off the main studs, bolt it together, torque the bolts to 25 ft lbs (?) and have a look, put a torch at the other end of the case, if you can see light between the case halves then it needs facing and line boring.
If its that bad its kinda getting to the end of its usefull life.
If you are building a stocker, you may get away with it - it might last 50,000 miles, but maybe not
Your case gasket (between the two halves) is too thick.:P
Facing? Theory sounds okay, but never heard of it being applied to VW cases. Looks like it might need a line bore, but with the two main bearing saddles bnot mating with each other...erg. New case time me thinks..
$$$ in it? Try new large valve heads, new 90.5mm P&C, new heavy duty oil pump, balanced the lot, new airfilters, new linkage, new manifolds, dual 40IDFs, sandblasted tin & 6V 200mm flywheel. I bought it (it was an 1835) from the Forum "needing rings only". Yeah right. I am just sick of pouring money in it. I think I am pulling the plug.
what they said 🙂 you are only as strong as your weakest link. Look at the colour of #3 main its well and truly rooted. Keep in mind that big ends wear twice as fast as mains so if they are good then yoru crank is bent, case out of round or your bearing crush has been set incorrectly. From my experiance I'd source a better starting poimt or else you will be pouring good money after bad.
karmannghia60 wrote:$$$ in it? Try new large valve heads, new 90.5mm P&C, new heavy duty oil pump, balanced the lot, new airfilters, new linkage, new manifolds, dual 40IDFs, sandblasted tin & 6V 200mm flywheel. I bought it (it was an 1835) from the Forum "needing rings only". Yeah right. I am just sick of pouring money in it. I think I am pulling the plug.
Hey Raf, if you've got all the "good bits" already but just a bad case, can't you just replace the case. Easy for me to say, I know. But it would be an even bigger waste if you pulled the pin now, wouldn't it?
VW car, VW engine ...... keepin it "real"
35MPG on 101.3kPa
Take it to Volkspeed in Bayswater and ask to have it checked.
From what you say it just might need facing and line boring.
If you have the motor pulled apart like this then its the best time to do it and know that its all correct before putting back together.Get it crack tested as well because you spend all this money and if the case is cracked well its a waste of time.
Don`t get stressed mate it all part of the fun.
Everything 36HP !
Change over king and link spindles
6-12volt semaphores