I want to rust proof my karmann. The left hand heater channel was pretty rotton, the outer was replaced and a new reinforcing was welded in. its a convertible. the right was never opened up and Im preying its not as bad as the left, because the car has just been painted. I know it was silly to go ahead with the paint, and not look inside the other channel, but most of the rust for some reason was on the left hand side of the car.
Anyway, assuming there is still rust lurking in there some where, how long will rust proofing the car hold this at bay? can the insides be blasted with rust converter first and then rust proofed? what about electronic rust proofing?
check out the range of POR-15 stuff....
www.ppc.com.au i think...
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
Fish oil is the best anti rust agent.. its inexpensive.. runs everywhere... can apply with spray gun, brush or squeeze trigger sprayer.. Lasts forever.. it just seals the metal & keeps the air & water away from the metal. It used to smell like fish for a long time, but nowdays You can buy deodorised fish oil.. Don't buy the el cheapo stuff its no good.
Motorpro or Killrust etc are good brands... If You fish oil a rusted piece of metal, it won't rust any more.... just make sure the fish oil doesn't get wet while its drying. The drying time varies according to the air temperature.. One or two days in the hot summer.. maybe up to a week or longer during the winter... I have been using it since 1968....
and highly recommend it.. You can apply it again & again over the years and it just builds up.... its very runny so it gets into joins in the metal etc...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
thanks for that youve sold me. How can I saturate this stuff right through the heater channels now there all closed up?
Probly like they do on other cars drill holes spray in and plug holes with rubber plugs,but im only guessin dude goodluck.😉
Can You get it into the heater outlets near the floor?
and take the rear seat out.. and in later beetles there are holres that go into the heater channels. I don't know why these holes are there, but if they aren't in Your car, You can also drill holes and use a blanking off rubber grommet afterwards....
Motorpro make a pressure pack can of Fish oil, so You can squirt away to Your hearts content.... Remember that You can't use too much... it doesn't hurt anything... its just like oil but dries... when You spray inside the doors, the excess will just come out the drain holes... leave the doors open...
You can remove it with turps or maybe it was thinners.... probably kerosene would remove it also... within a few weeks.. after that it sets hard... its great stuff...
Just remember, the cheap pressure pack $3 -$4 stuff isn't any good....
cheers
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
You can get a gun with a hose on the end of it. They are not very expensive only about $20. The fish oil comes in a litre can and the gun screws in the top.
Yeah drill 13mm (1/2 inch) holes and put the hose inside, then squirt away and put grommets in the holes.
The left side of most cars rusts first, because a car spends a bit of it's time parked on the road and the car will lean to the left. This means more often the water will run to the left side of the car. Therefore rust left first.
Thanks guys
where do I drill the holes? under the sill? wont weaken it will it?
I would drill into the heater channel under the rear seat ..
but a 1/2 inch hole isn't going to hurt anything...
I also sprayed heaps of fish oil into the heater outlets on the floor in the front.... another trick, is to use a pressure pack can with the small nozzle and stick the nozzle under the windscreen rubber on the top and let the fish oil stop any corrosion going on under the rubber... The rear window rubber is probably more important, as they are prone to rust under the rubber... as I said, it doesn't hurt anything... and You can wipe away the excess with a Rag... it takes a while to dry... different brands seem to differ with their drying time.. also depends whether its just a fine coat or 3mm thick..
and the temperature plays its part too...
Don't forget.. don't let the fish oil get wet before its dry..
Although I have used a paint brush & 4 litres of fish oil on My car plus 4 large pressure pack cans, the pressure packs are probably the best , as You only need a 5mm hole to put the nozzle thru and it really sprays a fine mist everywhere....
I See Big W have PowerPlus Fish Oil & Auto One have their own brand & Motorpro also... around $7 -$9 a can..
They is also rust inhibiting additives in fish oil these days.. and not much smell.... not like in the 60s... Car used to smell like a fish shop for 6 months... You were lucky that the cats didn't eat Your Mud Flaps..!!
regards
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Cool. That's all really helpful, thanks guys! I've been wondering the same kinda thing recently (got a Bay though).
Aurel
can you paint over dry fish oil?
cumonghia wrote:can you paint over dry fish oil?
Yes. It doesn't really totally dry just gets less sticky after a couple of days depending on the temp.
I used Kill Rust primer over Kill Rust fish oil with no probs. This also stopped any lingering fish smell.
what baout lanolin? i have heard its pretty good?
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
Can you buy liquid fish oil (ie - not in a spray can: I realise that I sound daft, I'm used to it) and then use one of those garden hand water sprayer bottle things? That would seem like a cheaper larger-scale option?
Also, if this scheme would work, any ideas where this material (the 'liquid' fish oil) is obtainable?
Aurel
PS: I'm not sure if I'm 'hijacking' (?) the post, sorry if so...
auto one and probobly supercheap should have it....i have definatly seen it in auto one
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
I bought a 1L can of deodorised fish oil from Milsom's Auto Paints in Ferntree gully. Under $20.
I've also thought about the using one of the pump up type of gardening spray bottles. Attach a flexible tube to the bottle, insert a spray nozzle in the tube, feed tube into heater channel. Fill bottle with fish oil, pump up the bottle, pull the trigger and drag the tube through the channel. Hey presto, fish oil sprayed all along the length of the cavity and no drilling holes.
There may be some technical details to be worked out, but I'll get there one day.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
so... how did it all go PurpleT3?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
Ahhh. Haven't got there yet. Now you've reminded me, I might have to have go at it.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
Hi there.'
Well I ended up getting an aerosol spray of fish oil. It wasn't meant to be the ultimate in long term protection, but should help for now... budget stuff, see.
Sure is smelly, even deodorised. Luckily I won't be needing the car for the next two weeks.
I sprayed under the car, into the chassis rails and all the holes I could find down there. One can did moderate coverage between the axles, but I put a fair bit into the sealed sections. I also gave the battery trays a go. Couldn't do up front nor a few inside spots because I ran out.
I spent the morning getting bruised and sore fingers from cleaning dirt out of holes with wire, and brushing off the underside (which was still quite clean).
See how it goes hey?
Aurel
PurpleT3 - hahaha get busy! *whip!*
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
