So you are running a mechanical pump on the case out to the tank ? and an electric pump from the tank to the cooler to the case??? What is the pump volume based on ? RPM only ??
Its all getting to tricky for me !!! How long have you been planning the engine, and overall combo ??
[Edited on 30-5-2004 by AdrianH]
What I was asking was what type of turbo cooling ie. intercooloer or not, air to air etc...
fark this should be awesome 🙂
Hows the tranny gonna handle all this power?
[Edited on 30-5-2004 by Che Castro]
Jon
Lots of new questions to answer...
Ok, the oil pump for lubrication and scavenging the sump is purely mechanical, so volume is rpm based. The oil tank is located inside the car behind the back seat (under the speaker tray). The cooler is located underneith the tank, to the right of the gearbox.
I've been collecting parts for this engine for about 3 years now. My 1641cc turbo engine has allowed me to try diferent things and to work out where I can make improvements, as well as learn a lot of things.
Turbo aftercooling, my current plan is to use two small water to air intercoolers (one each side of the engine), and a radiator under the rear left guard. There will also be a ERL 2 stage water injection kit that will be controlled by the EFI system.
As for the transaxel, there are two ways I might go. One is to rebuild my current transmission into a rhino case and add a superdiff and big side plates, or alternatively import a completely worked over transaxel from rancho. My rear tyres are 205's too, so I expect to brake traction before breaking the gearbox.
A friend of mine here in cairns is importing rancho transmissions and scat engines for use in VW powered trike's, which are then assembled here in australia. I'm hoping to place an order with their gear.
Definantly staying with swing axel though. I'm not into going around corners too fast, and much more prefer straight lines. 🙂
[Edited on 30-5-2004 by iswinkels]
And evan more questions,
Where are you locating the turbine itself
Are you using 95mm p and c's ??? Thought I read 2380 somewhere ??
there was a post on the web regarding lag .To stop this there was a regulator fitted from Metal work * I find the post and let you now .I sell the reg fitting ect and valves in perth * just to let you know * :rudolf
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
Jak Rizzo wrote:In regards to hp, the last time we went to the dyno, Leighs 2007cc turbo got 155hp @ the wheels at around 5000rpm with only 13psi boost, should have been running 15psi. He has since fixed the boost & ran a 12.9 quarter in a 900kg street car.
Hi
Shame your so far away I would love to have a look at your car and have a good chin wag. Leighs time was done during bracket racing, so he was backing off and taking some boost out so that he didnt break out.
I've also gone the Porsche brake route, if you have any questions or problems drop me a line.
http://www.clubvw.org.au/steve.htm
1302Steve
Lowbug, Well the turbo is located under the rear apron (based on a CB hideaway header, but chopped up and modified a little).
Adrian, yes it is a 2380cc engine.
Seagull, I don't get how fitting some kind of regulator is going to reduce lag? Fact is we are talking about allowing the turbine to spool quickly at low rpm, short of having a smaller exhaust ar turbine, or a VNT turbine (ideal) there is little can be done.
The only bolt on that *realy* helps eliminate lag is nitrous, which would be over kill for the engine i'm building...
1302Steve, I agree. I've read a lot about your car on your website and the germanlook.com forum. I agree it would be great to be able to compare notes and experiences. If you are on MSN at all feel free to contact me for a chat, or email me directly. I'm online most evenings. Thus far I've made contact with only one other guy (in the US) that has a turbo bug that I've been able to share notes with. Fortunanty he has the same engine management system too, so we have been able to share ECU maps too.
Cheers,
What an awesome build-up!! I love seeing current technology in use on 60-year-old engine designs! :thumb
Kruizin Kol
Me Too! With the exception of the lowered stance, porsche wheels and 2 1/2" exhaust it looks stock from the outside.
The new body is being painted pure white, so it will look even more like a sleeper... little will the unsuspecting wrx sti/skyline gtr know... 😀
Man.... I'm totally awe struck, awesome dude, awesome!
I'm interested in the comp ratio calc but the formulaes didn't work with the attachment. Is the original available on the net at all.
BTW hats of to what your doing will be eagerly watching
yeah, wrx sti, skyline, porsche, lamborghini diablo etc etc.
What a rocket !
Keep the updates coming please, its fantastic reading.
Absolutely. This is an excellent post. It explains everythign really well too and there isn't anyone 'knocking' other peoples ideas and stuff. Fan-bloody-tastic. Subsequently I have started reading up about EFI and turbos and it is a fascinating subject. All the power dude; literally!
Dance like a blind person
Here's another copy of the deck height calculator spreadsheet. I fixed the bugs with the formulaes on cylinders #3 and #4, and unprotected the document so you can make modifications easily now. Hopefully they were the errors that you meant.
I don't remember where I originally got the spreadsheet from, but it's an excelent little tool.
As for the remaining parts for the engine, it looks like i'll be going with a pair of CB street eliminator 2000 heads with a mild port, custom length aluminium pushrods from aircooled.net and empi or pauter 1.25:1 roller rockers.
I've ordered my spacers and shims so I can do a final measure up with everything bolted firmly in place. After that I'll be ordering the heads and remaining parts.
It will probably be about 6-8 weeks till everything arrives and is machined and ready for the next phase of assembly, that being to a rocker cover to rocker cover stage.
The panel shop has most of my "new" '66 shell in final primer now. Chrome strip holes, a few rust spots, bumper overriders, exhaust cutouts, and previous bad panel work have been fixed/welded. It's looking pretty sweet!
I'm going to try and get some more pictures this week. If the weather holds out, it might be ready for the spray booth mid next week, which means my weekends are about to get very busy with the complete re-fit and rewire of the car.
Has anyone ever tried sourcing an aftermarket power window lift kit before? I'm thinking of converting the single piece glasst to use an electric lift system and have no idea where to start looking in australia...
Thanks for the feedback to everyone! It's good fun being able to share my obsession with other vw freaks!
Cheers, :beer
Hmmm, there are a few kits around.... my local Tandy bloke (whom I get my Jaycar stuff from) stocks electric window kits, but I couldn't tell you the brand.
Some kits obviously won't suit the space you have available. I've been wondering whether it would be practical to use the kombi window actuator system (cable driven) so that it is possible to mount an electric conversion virtually anywhere in the door..... this may work on a Beetle too....
Kruizin Kol
Damm , I've drooled over my key board.
That is one super Tough combo, how light can u make the car?
Should be able to get even lower ets with set up and light weight.
Regards,Glenn>
Very impressive indeed! Do you expect any problems with compliance for your new engine with QLD certification requirements? Any forseable probs with the oil tank inside the cabin (behind rear seat)?
Looking and sounding great!
Alan
I've got the plates on the car for all the existing mods to date, but I didn't think about the oil tank requiring approval. It will be concealed under the speaker tray, so I figure what they don't see won't hurt them.
As for the weight factor, it will weigh in close to about 780-800kg. That give a power rate ratio of 3.75kg:1kw, which is better than a porsche GT2.
I've changed my mind on the cylinder heads again... going for CB CNC 044 round ports in favour of getting better cooling from the more surface area of the heads (instead of the SE2000 heads).
I'm going to check out the new '66 shell this morning. It's getting its final spray this next week! Body/chassis swap happening next weekend (lots of work).
Ian when I hit Cairns later this year I am definitetly looking you up for a photo session (test ride?) hubba hubba 😉
if you dont mind me asking. what was the total cost of this conversion. (engine only). not brakes or anything.
thanks
anthony
Truthfully I don't know exactly what it cost... Real enthuesiests don't keep recepts 🙂
At a ballpark guess though I'd have to say this would be an approximate breakdown...
Bare engine to long block - $4500
Oil cooling and fittings and oil lines $500
Porsche cooling system - $1000 (Home made shroud, materiels inc)
EFI ECU, plumbing, tank mods, fuel lines - $1800
Exhaust system + header - $1500 (including all modifications i've done so far)
Garrett GT25-320 Turbo - $1600
MSD, Coil and Ignition parts - $1500 (including recent conversion to distributor trigger, allowing full sequential injection)
That would be about it I think. As you can see most of it isn't the actual engine, its all the other parts needed to support it etc.
The 2380's still on hold for the moment... The new bare shell will be finished inside of 2.5 weeks now, in Porsche Arctic Silver, instead of white. Saw the body last weekend and it is perfectly straight.. I'll post some new pics later.
Oh, and yesterday I was interviewed by ABC radio about my car. They had me do a walk around and talk about the things that have been done to it. Then had me start the car and rev it a few times. I gunned it twice, first to 4500, then to about 6000. I nearly frightened the reporter out of her skin!
They played it on the radio this morning at about 8:30. I'm getting a cd copy of the broadcast later too, so i'll make it available for download from my website.
Cheers,
[Edited on 23-6-2004 by iswinkels]
Ask Wes about the electric windows, he has them in his Baja and has fitted them to another Guys Beetle as well.
Brad
Why copy when you can own an original ?
Meyers Manx AustraliaWhat pistons and cylinders are you using ???
I've put the power window kit on hold for a little while. I've got enough going on without taking on yet another major modification. Ive started making up new looms for the new shell when it comes back from the panel beaters.
AdrianH, both my engine used mahle forgies, the 1641's using 87 and the 2380 is using 94's. Both have mahle top and oil rings, with total seal second rings. As i'm not going to push the power output into the 300+ mark (with the 2380) i don't think I need to go to wisco cnc forgies, (though the endless possabilities with gudgen pin heights were tempting).
The latest pics of the body. At this stage its at about the 3rd coat of high fill primer. The panel beater tells me the body work is that flat, that i could get away with painting it black, so i've changed the colour to arctic silver instead of white.
It would be a shame to paint in a plain colour when so much effort has gone into making the lines and panels perfect.
Here's the pics...
Another picture.
Another picture.
[Edited on 23-6-2004 by iswinkels]
