Hi there.
You probably remember this from the engine mods section. But this continuation doesn't really apply to that subject
Anyhow, dropped the engine out after a lot of misery (1800). After it was out I realised the transmission is supported. It's a 1600 transmission. I've never pulled the motor out of this car before. When I had the transmission swapped from the auto to the 1600 manual, I didn't do it.
Anyway, to the point:
Would I be able to get away with putting my S beetle's 1600 in temporarily? (only needs to go a few thousand kms)
Thanks.
PS. Picture attached of transmission....oily, innit!
[Edited on 26-6-2004 by General_Failure]
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Sorry about the second posting of the question. I don't know how it happened.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
you can swap the super bug gear box if you like just make sure the nose section is the same . If its a single side plate it would be a better box for a van any way .seagull
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
I wouldn't have to swap the box, would I? I only want to put the superbug motor in because my van's one carked it, and I'm looking for a temporary measure until I can fix it. The transmission in the kombi is already a 1600 box.
So, apart from the tinware etc, what I'm basically saying is this....The mount that's on the transmission in the van, am I right in assuming that my van has the ability to have a hanging engine like the T1s?
Sorry about this, but I know a lot less about the t2 than the t1.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
your motor should go staight in , sorry I was reading 1600 gear box hee hee
did you throw the auto out ?
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
I just replaced the 1600 gearbox on my 72 1600 Kombi. I think that if you have an 1800 you must have a later model kombi. 1600 Kombis have a rear support bar that fits between the chassis rails. You might find if you dont have a removable rear valance then your superbug (1600) engine will have nothing to support its weight. In addition to that you need a universal engine case to be able to mount the rear bar, which your super engine may not have.
I think you may struggle
Cheers
Steve
I have no real idea about this but I can tell you what I do know. The 1600 bug motor has no support on it and doesn’t need any because of the frame horns in a bug. Although the bell housing supports the Bus box, it needs the rear support because the housing is inadequate to hold up to the torque twist. You can make a mount to hold the back of the engine using the case bolts (this is used in the states on most off road buggies) I have one if you need a pic.
I hope this helps
Moose
:thumb
True, It is a later model van. it's 73 or 74 (cant remember atm) and it spent the majority of its life as an 1800 auto. but when I bought it for the princely sum of $200 the auto trans was half buggered. It worked out cheaper to manualise it.
I didnt do the conversion. I lacked the tools, expertise, parts and time. So I was kind of surprised when I dropped the engine out to discover the transmission was supported. Because I thought the kombis with the T4 motors just had an unsupported transmission. So all kombis have the engine mount. hmm.
The beetle engine case is a mutant unfortunately. some freak mated a t2 and a t1 case half.. apologies if that person is reading. but seriously, what were you thinking!
So my only real option is to repair the 1800 now. anyway. I'm pulling the heads off today to see how bad the damage is.
Oh yeah, the homebrew engine mount sounds interesting.
Thanks all!
Tristan.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
sounds like it might be time to go water cooled. It might actually work out cheaper too. But this is just and idea.😉
I'd love to go for H2O. I was looking into it recently actually. But unfortunately I'm on a third world budget atm.
Didn't get as far as taking the offending head off today. But it's all ready to do tomorrow morning.
What I can see through the inlet of no. 4 and it's sparky hole scares me a bit.
There's a lovely gouge in the valve seat I can stick my finger through (although the valve looks perfect...weird). And looking through the sparky hole I can see a lot of metal. I stuck my finger into the exhaust and the valve stem feels like it is still there....Feels like. ahem. I'll find out tomorrow. And the piston is jammed at about the top of the stroke too. so I really don't know what's happening.
Ever notice how mechanical failures happen at the worst possible time?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
General_Failure wrote:..snip..
Anyway, to the point:
Would I be able to get away with putting my S beetle's 1600 in temporarily? (only needs to go a few thousand kms)
Thanks.
PS. Picture attached of transmission....oily, innit!
[Edited on 26-6-2004 by General_Failure]
I have seen this question asked several times on TheShopTalkForums. The general opinion is that with a
lot of work you can put a beetle type motor in a later model kombi, but it is not worth the time and effort when the 1700-2000 carb motors will bolt in.
