Somebody (who has gone off line now) suggested i put a "1600 barrell & pistons" into my 1300 for a bit more grunt - and said that this will keep the serial no's in tact (or something to that effect".
firstly - what does he mean by a 1600 barrell & pistons - is this the engine or something attached to the engine??
Also - what does he mean by keeping the serial no's in order??
I like his idea coz it saves my 1500 engine for my smashed 1500 should I rebuild it??
You buy a set of barrels and pistons for a 1600, you then take your heads off then the barrels and replace the pistons and barrels with the new ones, you now have a 1600cc motor but with still the same serial/engine number as it says on your rego papers.
Cheers
Dave
Thanks Dave
firstly - how much would that cost (approx.) and secondly, would that affect the 'originality' - or not to a point of losing $$ (am concerned that as we would be paying top $$ for the 1300 due to it's originality - don't want to spoil that in terms of value). Or would it add value??
Wouldnt make any differance to originallity and will give you more power, also you can change it back if you keep the old barrels and pistons, would need to change the carby for a bit bigger one.
If you go to sell it most people would prefer a 1600.
Dont know about cost, ring some shops
Cheers
Dave
I'm feeling better all the time.....
thankyou
One more thing , the 1300 is not rare so dont worry about it not being original, there are millions of them.
Cheers
Dave
I keep attaching the originality to the price tag we are paying - are we paying for "originality" or are we just paying for a 71 1300 in excellent A1 condition.
I guess what you are saying is that the value is in the conditon - not in the originality - do i have that right??
Dave - how much would you pay?? Maximum for a 71 1300 in top condition - full history - well maintained.??
My only remaining unanswered question is are we paying too much - and I know everyone says it is worth what you are prepared to pay - but I don't want to get 'ripped off'.
condition makes more of a difference to price. originality is more like icing on the cake. With engines originality means even less (unless it is for example a matching serial numbers 1200 engine on an oval) as most aircooled engines have probably been rebuilt several times over the last 40 or so years.
Besides it would be quite difficult to source 1300 or 1500 pistons and cylinders as only 1600 (85.5mm dia) pistons and cylinders are really readily available. The 1300/1500/1600 engines are more or less completely interchangeable.
Jon
Thanks John - can't believe all the useful info I am gaining/learning.
Are you able to guide on what you pay for a top 1970 1300 - excellent condition inside and out
If your 1300 ain't broke then don't fix it. Drive it first and see how it goes, my 1300 goes along nicely in traffic. Just cruise, you will only be 1 minute or so slower getting to your destination than if you sped the whole way.
I might be wrong but I think the 1600TP is actually more fuel efficient than a 1300DP!
Steve
cb, They're not ignoring you, but nobody is going to say what a car is worth without seeing it.
I paid $2000 for a '68 with original body paint, no rust, and very tidy interior. The mechanicals were also in good nick and some window rubbers had been replaced. Basically, it was a great basis for an easy resto, but needed a few 'shopping trolley' dents ironed out. I thought it was a good price, and so did everyone else who I showed it to.
Obviously though, if I wanted it to be straight for that 'restored' look, it was going to need some panel-beating and paint. Although the work required wasn't major, this still costs a considerable amount of money, unless you can do it yourself. A dead-straight car with perfect paint is going to be worth considerably more. That said, how many 30 year old cars do you find in that condition?
It's very hard to put a price on a car without seeing it..... Straight body, new paint (done properly), good motor, original condition interior, etc, etc.... It could be worth as much as $15,000... or as little as $3,000. Even then, the price will vary depending on a) how reluctant the owner is to part with it/what they think it's worth, and b) how badly you want it and how much you can afford to spend.
I know this isn't much help to you, but YOU need to decide whether YOU think it's worth it. That said, you can always get a few VW-oriented mate's to check it out with you, then have a yarn about it later over a beer. They'll soon tell you what they think if the seller isn't present. 😉
Kruizin Kol
Thanks Kruizin Kol.....I kind of figured that's why no-one was answering - and that is understandable. I appreciate your comments - thanks again...........
Wayne Penrose Volkswagen on the south coast has a new 1300 piston & barrel kit in stock . If the engine is enlarged to the 1600 pistons & barrels , it is not so easy to change back to the 1300 set as the 1300 cylinder heads have to be oversize machined to accept the new 1600 barrels . The carburettor on the dual port 1300 bug is suitable for the 1600 enlargement but has to be re-jetted to suit .
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cbhotdogd wrote:Somebody (who has gone off line now) suggested i put a "1600 barrell & pistons" into my 1300 for a bit more grunt - and said that this will keep the serial no's in tact (or something to that effect".
firstly - what does he mean by a 1600 barrell & pistons - is this the engine or something attached to the engine??
Also - what does he mean by keeping the serial no's in order??
I like his idea coz it saves my 1500 engine for my smashed 1500 should I rebuild it??
These are barrels and pistons or P&Cs or P&Bs 1300-1500-1600 p&Bs will interchange in the case but the heads will need machining about $100 or buy new heads-
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=163 and the serial nos are on the case SO that wont change unless u change engines or the case>
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1341 enjoy
😉
