Can anyone recommend electronic galvanic rust prevention?
As in the units that bolt to the body of the car and act as a sacrificial anode
4 of 50 Commited Dubber
71 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
rust gone for ever
VWFREAK VWFREAK
2,577 posts · joined May 2004 ·
I bought a unit called RKILL CP3, from the middle east about 10 months ago. I paid about $80 AU. Works like a treat I think (I bloody hope). The item is actually made in Tawian.
I haven't had a problem, but I'd try a better known brand in Australia. I've seen similar units for around $150 + depending on make.
Use fish oil if this dosen't meet the budget, $3 a can from GOLO.
I haven't had a problem, but I'd try a better known brand in Australia. I've seen similar units for around $150 + depending on make.
Use fish oil if this dosen't meet the budget, $3 a can from GOLO.
MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth
3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
Hmmm....stick to the fish oil. The units work OK when all is fine....if you remove them or they stop working your car will rust faster than it ever has....:blush
tssnq.com.au
555bug WRX Bug Boy
1,123 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
those units are a total scam, in fact i believe there was moves in the usa to have them banned. Save your cash and get some fish oil or hot gal dip everything.
aggri1 Insano Dub Head
824 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·
I think it had something to do with no electron return path. On a ship there's a whole lot of lovely water full of ions to carry a nice current. Air is somewhat harder for electrons to move through. Even dirt can carry some current, so they can use sacrificial cathodes (or whatever, anodes, same crap, different sign) on pipes in the ground.
I don't quite get it, but I have also heard that it's dodgy.
Fish oil - wear clothes that will never need to be smell-free again! My lovely old flannel smells after one long nappisan soak, two washes, and several WEEKS on the clothes line. But my bus should be happy.
I don't quite get it, but I have also heard that it's dodgy.
Fish oil - wear clothes that will never need to be smell-free again! My lovely old flannel smells after one long nappisan soak, two washes, and several WEEKS on the clothes line. But my bus should be happy.
PurpleT3 Fahrvergnugen
880 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·
Either a sacrificial anode or cathodic protection system is something that needs to be carefully designed and installed. Not that I have used one, but I would be very wary of a DIY system that costs $80-$100. Like Mick said, if you are not very careful you can end up making it rust faster. Put your money into a good paint job, fish oil etc. If it really worked for $150, everybody would have one.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
4 of 50 Commited Dubber
71 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·
Thanks
Last post probably sums it up for me
Go Fish Oil!!
Last post probably sums it up for me
Go Fish Oil!!
Andy Andy\'s Adventures
2,820 posts · joined Nov 2002 ·
Galvanic protection is only of use to something that is grounded, a car isn't so they are of little use.
There is also electronic units run from your battery that do a better job, but are much more expensive (~$400-$1000).
That money spent on paint and rust proofing goes a long way. Make sure you get rust proofing into all the hidden areas, there are heaps in VW's.
That said, I have fitted an electronic unit to my Kombi, in addition to paint and rust proofing. I'll let you know in 10 years if it did any good.
:thumb
There is also electronic units run from your battery that do a better job, but are much more expensive (~$400-$1000).
That money spent on paint and rust proofing goes a long way. Make sure you get rust proofing into all the hidden areas, there are heaps in VW's.
That said, I have fitted an electronic unit to my Kombi, in addition to paint and rust proofing. I'll let you know in 10 years if it did any good.
:thumb
VWFREAK VWFREAK
2,577 posts · joined May 2004 ·
If your still after even more ideas, try useing sacrificial anodes (leg ingets). They work by the lead sacrificing itself before the steel does.
Works on ships, so why not cars? just an idea.
Works on ships, so why not cars? just an idea.
PurpleT3 Fahrvergnugen
880 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·
DO NOT USE LEAD!!
Lead in ships is used as ballast or something similar. Lead is more cathodic (inert) than steel, so you will end up protecting the lead by sacrificing your steel body panels. Not part of the plan.
The method of protection (sacrificial anode) you are referring to works by using something more reactive, like zinc or magnesium in contact with the steel. This is the basis of hot dip galvanising (and cold gal paints). It also only works if you have an electrolyte to complete the galvanic circuit. Simply attaching blocks of metal to the car body will not work.
The only method which may work is the expensive type of impressed current protection Andy mentioned.
Lead in ships is used as ballast or something similar. Lead is more cathodic (inert) than steel, so you will end up protecting the lead by sacrificing your steel body panels. Not part of the plan.
The method of protection (sacrificial anode) you are referring to works by using something more reactive, like zinc or magnesium in contact with the steel. This is the basis of hot dip galvanising (and cold gal paints). It also only works if you have an electrolyte to complete the galvanic circuit. Simply attaching blocks of metal to the car body will not work.
The only method which may work is the expensive type of impressed current protection Andy mentioned.
Ain't nothin' like the wind in your hair.
lugnuts Custom Title Time!
1,070 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·
no!!!!4 of 50 wrote:Can anyone recommend electronic galvanic rust prevention?
As in the units that bolt to the body of the car and act as a sacrificial anode