I just broke a handbrake cable in my 69 bug, I've been perusing the workshop manual for the procedures to change it. Also been pricing around for the work:
- in town - 2 cables available - $55 each, plus $90 labour (total $200 for the job)....can't get me in until at least mid next week
- ordering cables from Canberra VW place - $44 each, mail $7, total $95 for the cables
- so counting on me being able to borrow a 36mm socket and breaker bar from someone closeby, and getting the cables in.....what is the advice from the masses concerning being able to do it? It doesn't look like a huge job and I'd really like to do it myself to learn about the car.
So, advice? Easy job, hard? Thanks....
Very easy job, easier in fact than replacing a gear cable on a mountain bike.
However like you say the hard part is removing the axle nut and the drum.
You may also find that only one cable has snapped, looking at where the cables mount on the handbrake lever will tell you which one. But best to check the other one if it's not broke, as it may not be far off.
The only advice I can think to suggest is that you may choose to check the condition of your rear brakes while they are apart, ie leaky wheel cylinders?, thickness of brake shoes etc...
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
Funny that, just put new drum shoes and rear cylinders on the car 3 months ago for rego. So the rear brakes are good, just need to replace the cables. Yes, only one has gone but I'll do them both.
So the worst bit is removing the wheel nut for the drum?
Replace both sides of them when you do the job
Its easy unless something goes wrong... 🙂
As Dave said, replace both sides. The other one's not broken yet, but it soon will be.
It's worth investing in a 36mm socket and breaker bar, it will pay for itself in this job alone. It will also fit the gland nut on the flywheel. 🙂
Also, shop around. I'm fairly certain you can get a better price via mail order, and it will only take three days to your door...
[Edited on 19-10-2004 by KruizinKombi]
Kruizin Kol
Actually priced a 36mm socket in town and the prices are too painful...hoping to borrow one. Anyone found some cheapies in the capitals? Might be worth me sourcing one next time I travel to the 'big smoke'.
Oh, and due to the hassles we have had with delivery here, I'm going to buy the local ones...an extra $15 but I get to know I have them for this weekend, rather than waiting, waiting....
Buy one for yr self ... 36mm socket n breaker bar 3/4 inch if possible
mine is 30+ years old and still going strong used it heaps of times.... never be without it thats if yr playing with VWs...
vw54 wrote:mine is 30+ years old and still going strong used it heaps of times....
mmmm Dave so if you bought that when you were 15 that would still make you >45...
😉
I'd be careful about divulging any more info like that
😀
I agree with the comment "look for a 3/4 inch bar and socket". My 1/2 inch doesn't quite cut it!!
CU
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
If it's the type that has a plate that balances on the handbrake lever and is balanced by tension in the two cables, try to figure out a way of keeping tension on the non broken cable. When one of mine went, the other one started to creep into the drum and ended up getting mashed in between the drum and the brake shoes.
Great, mashed good cable...this just gets better.
Thanks to all for your help, working on another (cheaper) angle now, see how I go.
By the way, I've been told there is a way of replacing the handbrake cable WITHOUT removing the drum...I can't see how...but anyone know?
I hope to talk to the person this weekend to get the details....I think its duff info but we'll see....
Mashed cables might happen if you keep driving it, and the non broken cable is no longer under tension and it gets pulled into the inside of the drum more than it's supposed to. It happened to me but then I am extremely unlucky.
I did one the other day here, cost $25 for the cable. A very easy repair. Have fun.
phantom wrote:By the way, I've been told there is a way of replacing the handbrake cable WITHOUT removing the drum...I can't see how...but anyone know?
If you have the Type 3 drums you don't have to undo the axle nut as that holds the hub, and the drum slides over that. So you can take the drum off and replace the cable without removing the axle nut. But yours are still beetle ones so that won't help.
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7040
Check these jobbies out for 36mm hex heads.
[Edited on 20-10-2004 by Chewy]
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could always jsut carry a brick or the yella pages :P
Yeah do it yourself, it would take you an hour tops.
for a beetle you have to take off the drum to unhook the cable off the brake lever.
It might even be an idea to replace the actual handbrake with an early pre-68 one as these have a different design where the cable attatches. There is no plate that balances, instead it is solidly attatched. This means that if one cable goes you still have the other side.
Jon
While you've got it open it might be worth checking out the rear wheel cylinders and the brake shoes unless you know they're good. I found that my rear cylinders were leaking, so I replaced them while I had the drum off.
Sounds good, a friend has sourced some cheaper cables and they should be in for the weekend. Working out to loan a 36mm socket and bar so hopefully all will come together by Sunday!
Thanks to all for the advice.
