Need some more undercoat now!
Good to be working on her again.. over and out.
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
A little bit often and it will get there.
It is worth it in the end.
Cheers
Dave
Good stuff Jim - glad to see some more progress!! That stripping is hard work...I took the easy way out and had my bug blasted (although found more problems than I originally anticipated).
Looking forward to the next pics over chrissy/new year! :party
dude, those flap things are mad hey? They are exxy but worth it.. Are you matt blacking straight away? You seem to have a vision.. go nuts
Looks like one of them there hippy buses to me.
Cheers
Dave
Thanks lads. I gotta talk to you some stage about your rear end Dave.. of the bus that is.. not that there is anything wrong with that. 😀
Well, like everything, this is a learning experience in so many different ways. Till now, I have used the expensive pressure pack spray cans, as I haven't had a compressor. Now, due to my generous friends for my 30th, I now have. So, I mixed some paint.. bit of this.. bit of that.. and bingo bango..
[Edited on 20-12-2004 by BenettonVW]
So, whilst I am learning.. it isn't too bad.. experimenting is good fun.. :P
Anything that was bare metal yesterday needed to be covered today. 4 litres of Satin Black, and I was into it.
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
And finally the required artistic shot.
The black gives you a taste of what it will be like eventually. So the high fill to go on after the whole bus looks like this, then the black to go back on again after that.
At least we get a taste now!
progress is lookin good :thumb:thumb:thumb
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
Good shit bro.
Steve
Another 4 flap-pads.. wahoo..!!
Slow progress, but it is a pain in the ass..
looks tiresome and i havent even moved out of my computer chair lol, have you thought of trying out paint stripper ? or is it too messy ?
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
About 90 minutes. Cool huh. Black on again tomorrow.
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
you can look at my rear any time big boy, sorry, I mean bus boy.
cheers
dave
Thanks Dave. You went went straight axle yeah?
That HAS been paint stripped. Steve and I stripped it a few times.. This thing is magic.. Sorta like a grinding disc, but nowhere near severe.. Leaves little marks, but thats fine by me. Etch it, high fill, and black again and no one will ever know.. Thats how insignificant these are..
Pretty cool.
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
looks like it cuts through the remains of the paint quiet cleanly 🙂 is the interior going to be the same color ? (satin black)
Founding member of the C'town Rat-Pack
Seeing my avatar says son of Jim, if you looked at my rear would that be incest????
Just checking dont wont to encourage you to break the law.
Straight axle with PMGBUS plates, the beetle box stays as is and just bolts in, limits rear tyres and you have to use beetle solid wheels with a max of 165 tyre.
Cheers
Dave
Okay.. Hmm.. Is he still making these plates?
I'm going with a Square back rear.. no dramas there is there?
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
I think so.
Cheers
Dave
57kombi wrote:you can look at my rear any time big boy, sorry, I mean bus boy.
cheers
dave
sorry, but aint i bus80y???!:duh
Simply Cruzin'...
you can use the rear end out of a square back but you will have to modify the axle tubes to make it work,
you need the short end casting axle tubes and what you have to do is make these the same overall length of the long end casting axle tubes,
to do this you cut the short end casting tube as close to the base as poss so when you weld them back together your new boot will cover the weld, then using the overall length measurement from the long tube minus the lenght that you have left on the short tube and this is what has to be added to the short tube i think it has to be 28mm longer ,
you will also need to notch out your spring plates and redrill the plate to accept the beetle or type 3 axle tube ,use oval bearing caps i think the bearing number is 6208 its easier than it sounds you could probably use your axle tubes from the redux boxes if you can find out the overall length of a long axle tube.
i hope that makes sense
cheers darren
[Edited on 21-12-2004 by t2 sauerkraut bug]
Yeah that makes sense. Are you running straight axle Darren?
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
Sorry Wes.
I'm not really two timing you.
Cheers
Dave
yep i am running straight axle , i learnt how to make it up on the samba lowering thread just have to make sure when you weld the axles back together that you weld them nice and straight, the way i did it was got a off cut of round bar from a steel supplier that fit nice and snug inside the axle tube, i then double checked the length after putting on the new longer bottom piece ,tacked it in 3 spots around the tube then fully welded after checking the length to be sure
check out the thread below, remember theat after taking of the redux hubs you have to flip the diff or change to 1500 swing axle box, i stuffed up and got a 6v box but it is still going to work just added a couple more unnecessary jobs to the list
http://www.aussieveedubbers.com/forum/viewthread.php?action=attachment&tid=15586&pid=110174&aid=11375
also i have read somewhere that people have been using the long axle tubes with no mods to them , the length would be ok but the shock tower mount would be in the wrong spot ,not to sure how they are over comming that
Okay, cool. Darren, plenty of people have talked about this method, on this and other forums, but I haven't talked to that many that HAVE done it, with the acception of Dave and yourself. I am weighing up the pro's and con's with this method, or a bolt in Indian IRS kit, other than cost of course. This thing is going to be LOW, so I dunno about swing axle on a bus.. hmm.. negative camber doesn't look the same on a bus I don't think. Not quite as good for some reason..
The Squareback box that is going into it is coming out of a 66. Would that make a difference for example? I think it is 12V...
P.S. Bodywork can be tedious..
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
Also I heard that link method does create some dramas with toe in/ out. Is this true?
THE LOWEST WITH THE MOSTEST BLING BLING WINS!!
i am not to sure about the toe in and out probs but to compensate for it you could elongate the holes to allow for adjustment and get a pro to set it up once its in (wheel align), i traced a early beetle spring plate onto a cardboard sheet then traced that onto the spring plate and cut it out.
as for going really low check out
www.lowlifevw.com and you will find most people on there are using the straight axle method and there rides are on the deck, i think that without mods under the car you will get lower using straight axle , but there is a part under there that you can cut out for the irs and will go as low as you want , i cant say about that because i dont know.
if i was you and allready have a 12v box to go in id go straight axle , you allready have all the parts so its only time to make it, if you dont like it go irs later
just my 2c
by the way i am no expert just comenting on what i have done on my bus i hope it helps
darren
here is a pic of mine and this would be just under as high as it can go after straight axle