Porsche Style Fan vs Normal Doghouse

Roukis Slammed & Awesome Dubber

77 posts · joined Feb 2003 · 28 Feb 2003, 10:05 am

#28903

I have a Porsche style fan on my dual carb 1776. Do these make the engine run cooler than the standard doghouse.

On hot days I need to prop the decklid up so get more cool air in. Also the fan facing the back of the decklid (when closed) doesn't help as there is not much fresh air circulating there.

Also

I have a VDO temp guage that is attached to the bottom of the berg sump. Will this relay an accurate temperature reading of the engine. Anotherwords should I be reading the engine temp. from another more critical point (dipstick etc)

Che Castro ankle straps

1,945 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 28 Feb 2003, 2:08 pm

#28939

the porsche style fan will definitely make the engine run cooler as it pumps a lot more air, it'll need a larger intake than the standard doghouse because of this.

You can cut a hole in your decklid behind the licence plate which helps with the air intake problem

The sump sender will generally read a lower temp than the oil in the galleries.

Jon

Roukis Slammed & Awesome Dubber

77 posts · joined Feb 2003 · 28 Feb 2003, 2:36 pm

#28949

I don't want to cut a hole in the decklid (W style). I will just keep the decklid open slightly.

Thanks

aussiebug Officially Full-On Dubber

246 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 28 Feb 2003, 4:12 pm

#28984

Che is right about the sump plug temp sensor - it will read a little lower than the "real" oil temp.

The Berg dip stick sender is slightly better positioned (in the bulk of the oil) , but the best place for a sensor is close to the oil pump inlet.

Re the Porsche fan, there are several solutions to getting more air (yes I know you don't want to cut the lid, but I include all possibilities)

1. Standoff lid hinges. These work but spoil the line of the car in my opinion. I haven't seen the HOODJAX type but it they result in the lid being closed when required, then they would be a better solution.

2. Standoff number plate with hidden holes behind. Almost impossible to see from the outside and with the Porsche fan, would be well positioned.

3. Graft slots into the lid - Kombi front air grill sections for example. These are still VW and look vaguely early porsche with their vertical slots, and for the Porsche style fan would be in a good position too.

4. Put slots in the sides of the engine bay - into the wheel arches. This certainly works - there is a company in Perth which makes two seat bugs with the rear part covered in - no under window or lid slots - only the slotted engine compartment sides are used. But this will result in some road grime being pulled in and so the engine (and fan) dirties up faster.

5. A half tennis ball or similar over the engine lid catch to crack it open at the bottom. This will certainly help and it can be removed easily if you want to lock the lid.

Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repairs and maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.vw-resource.com

Dasdubber DAS Resto Haus

5,746 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 28 Feb 2003, 4:23 pm

#28992

Be aware that if it is an 11 blade porsche fan you can run the risk of overcooling your engine (unless your compression ratio is up there to produce some cylinder head temps). It will take the engine longer to reach operating temperature after start up - some say overcooling is just as bad as undercooling.

The 5 blade fan does not pump out as much air and therefore doesn't create as many problems - still forces more air than the doghouse set up. One of the vw mags last year I think did an article on this comparison (maybe it was earlier than last year as I flip through my old mags often).

www.shoptalkforums.com in the type4rum has had some debates about this issue.

www.dasrestoparts.com.au

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 28 Feb 2003, 11:39 pm

#29093

Yes, I believe the best solution is the top of the engine "W" lid open, as the air coming over the roof is captured by the open "W" deck lid... Those engine lid hinge clips sound like the "bee's knees" (old Scone Saying).. to Me... The only other viable option would be the fibreglass scoop that screws to the rain channel on each side of the car and forces all the air coming over the roof into the normal under the rear window air intake... I have one of these , but they may be difficult to find... Open the top of the engine "W" lid with a set of after market clips and You can still Lock the engine lid (if You have a lockable handle & key):thumb:thumb:thumb:bounce:bounce:bounce

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Che Castro ankle straps

1,945 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 2 Mar 2003, 12:11 pm

#29329

the guys at V-Force have access to the molds for fiberglass repro's of early convertible decklids. these can be made with a big hole behind the licence plate to feed air to the porsche shroud.

v-force ph: 9743 1247

The doghouse is sufficient for even a 2.3L engine (with an external cooler as well of course). Just try to get a Fuel injection shroud, they are rare. They have a venturi at the back which increases cooling by about 10% or so. Use silastic to seal up all the tinware so its tight as a drum.

[Edited on 2-3-2003 by Che Castro]

Jon

2443TT Fahrvergnugen

962 posts · joined Dec 2002 · 2 Mar 2003, 6:56 pm

#29365

I've had no problems with my Porsche cooling on my '66. I live in Cairns NQ, and it averages about 32-35 degrees.

I warm the engine up to about 60 degrees prior to driving anywhere, just to be on the safe side. The engine is also using a 96 plate oil cooler with electronic controlled fan. The engine also has a deep sump. Oil capacity is about 5.5 litres.

When the engine was naturally aspirated, the oil temp would average 105 degrees, and would not run over about 110 degrees when I was pushing the engine.

Now with the turbo on the car, when pushed the temp gets up to a maximim of 120 degrees, but quickly gets back under control when I drive normally again.

Porsche cooling with external oil cooling is great for anyone who has an engine that is fairly modified, but doesn't use the car as a daily driver. The warming up prior to driving would be anoying if you use tthe car as a daily driver.

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fullnoise Fahrvergnugen

964 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 3 Mar 2003, 9:32 am

#29426

Try removing the engine tin between the engine and gearbox. Granted this may suit a stock set-up better but that's what I do. My fan draws air from under the car. The vents in my engine lid (56 cabrio style) just help let hot air out. Before I had the vents in the engine lid I made a bolt-on stand-off for the bottom of the engine lid. I didn't want to cut holes in my W decklid either.

My cooling is helped by a 96 plate messa cooler and thermo fan above the gearbox too.

I'm surprised the results of the Porsche fans aren't better. The results above still seem a bit hot.

CYA, CT

esratrams

fullnoise Fahrvergnugen

964 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 3 Mar 2003, 9:36 am

#29427

Just found this. Vents and deck lid stand-off on a really hot day. I think the lower stand-off is ugly too. That's why I took it off straight after racing.

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esratrams

Roukis Slammed & Awesome Dubber

77 posts · joined Feb 2003 · 3 Mar 2003, 9:46 am

#29428

I like "iswinkels" set up. I already have a external oil filter but without the remote fan. I think I will be installing a remote fan for sure.
Keeping the boot lid open from the hinges will be my last resort as I really like the look of the lid closed on my Oval. Does anyone know what type of fan/setup to use. The oil cooler I have is bolted above the gearbox. There is room for a fan.