hey all, tried this question before the last crash with no response, does anyone know about rubber that fits on the actual deck lid instead of running through the channeling on the rear apron ond body? does it work for pre 68's, is there any advantage to keeping the older style rubber? does it matter if there is rubber at all if you use standoff hinges?
Never heard of it mate, and quite honestly, cant see the attraction.
That engine bay rubber is usually pretty easy to fit - have you lost the 'groove' that the rubber sits in ?
the groove is rusting away, i was thinking of grinding it off
Yes I ground the channel off at the front & rear and now use Mexican rubbers which fit onto the engine lid and bonnet..
Those channels do tend to rust out.....
I did buy some new channel but never used it....
The Mexican type rubbers are available from Vintage Vee Dubs...
Not expensive....
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug
.
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
are they suitable for pre 68's?
Yes-If you have got rid of all the original metal channel.You can also buy the Mexican type rubber that attaches to the engine cover from Clark's Rubber stores.They have a listing with the original VW part number- got mine from them.
SWEET THANKS GUYS:beer
yeah here is that rubber still attatched on my oval.. really you can't even see it.. hope its of some use...
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
i can see you've taken off the channeling. i needed some encouragement to get the angle grinder out
:beer
Yep DO it
I have this done on my Orange smoothieeee.... it looks so clean. The metal section is only spot welded on about every 50 mm or so... you can lever it off n trim of the spots after
do the same to the bonnet rubber as well. ... less chance of rust starting
Yep the rubber is available from Vintage in Sydney ( 02-9789-1777 ) for yr Engine Lid .... no its not a deck lid...
mmm, not sure whot you mean but definately i haven't taken da grindage machine to my sweet little oval..
heres another angle that may be of some use..
fractal geometry; the inner most limits of mind altering abuse
Fantasy
http://seventhchronicle.com
Z = Z2 + C1/r = 1/0 = infinity
Barrels
www.barrelman.com.au
VW Workshop - aircooledgarage.com.au
allcooled.com.au
Not much use worrying about the rubber if using standoffs for your engine cover.The rubber is used as a seal to prevent road debris and the exhaust heat from entering the engine bay when the cover is attached correctly.
Hmmmmm the smoother the better I reckon... it's called the Brazil look... :thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb
PS: I haven't tried this better engine bay seal with Hoodjax - feedback welcome!
[Edited on 23-2-2005 by VWCOOL]
Pay your debts, CxxT
VWCOOL wrote:Hmmmmm the smoother the better I reckon... it's called the Brazil look... :thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb
PS: I haven't tried this better engine bay seal with Hoodjax - feedback welcome!
[Edited on 23-2-2005 by VWCOOL]
he he , ive looked at this a few times and only just got the brazilian look:duh ill be getting the rubber soon, ill let you know
anybody looking for the rubber from clark rubber, the item no. to ask for is 10690
:thumb they said 4.5 meters for boot, and 4 meters for engine lid. i dont know if that sounds right though:duh
4 metres for the engine lid sounds like a lot. I doubt the car is even 4 metres long. (but then I'm terrible at estimating distances).
No, its NOT 4M for the boot lid....
although the bits I bought from Vintage Vee Dubs was much too long for the boot....
A late model engine lid takes 1.5M , so an early deck lid would take slightly more ....
So, 2M would be plenty for an early deck lid .....
It just pushes onto the lip of the deck lid....
Actually if You are going to use stand offs all the time...
You only really need it where the lid touches the body....
to prevent the lid rubbing the paint off the body....
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
With the boot section.... the bonnet lip doesn't go across the top , near the windscreen.... so it cannot be used there...
I noticed the New Mexican Beetles still used the old type rubber across the top of the boot....
I have seen Beetles with adhesive foam material used across the top... but I haven't been able to find any that will not become "unsticky" in 40C degree temperatures.....
so I may have to use an original piece across the top of the bonnet....
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I think it is around $30 and $45 for engine lid and bonnet respectively from VVDS. This is what I was quoted.
akean1 wrote:VWCOOL wrote:Hmmmmm the smoother the better I reckon... it's called the Brazil look... :thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb
PS: I haven't tried this better engine bay seal with Hoodjax - feedback welcome!
[Edited on 23-2-2005 by VWCOOL]
he he , ive looked at this a few times and only just got the brazilian look:duh ill be getting the rubber soon, ill let you know
How'd you go with Hoodjax and a 'Brazilian'?!
Pay your debts, CxxT
