Two bolts accessed through tweeter/woofer holes and one through the port hold them in place - all of which are a pain in the ar$e to access but to have them hidden from view it had to be done.
Das they look insane!
A plastic wire fitting (like those used for bulkhead fittings instead of an o-ring) was used to route the 16 guage Stinger speaker wire through to under bonnet area.
After a bit more fine filler, I cut the filler panel to shape which will cover the 6x9 holes.
This is the filler panel if you didn't guess already :P
If I had my time over I would have recessed the sub or made the box so it could be inverted (but rollcage gets in the way)....but still looks good I think.....will look better after paint.
QUOTE: The sun in this pic made it a little hard to get good photo.
Mate, for what its worth you could just describe an addition too your car and everyone would already know it would not only look shit hot but the finish would be perfect........
Thats a damn good reputation too have! Hate to see ya house renovations.... one can only imagine the quality there. Nice work as always... If you change ya mind on the sub box all together, just send it my way 😉
1958 Beetle, 1966 VW Beetle, 1996 Holden Statesman!
Its an obsesion for engines and fuel.... 😏
quite a ride. you know it's a good thread when you're compelled to read all 38 pages...
those cups are gonna look sweet chromed 😉
let sleeping dubs lie
Peter Leonard wrote:quite a ride. you know it's a good thread when you're compelled to read all 38 pages...
those cups are gonna look sweet chromed 😉
Nah won't be chromed or fully polished....just a slight change to make them a little different (nothing too extreme).
Cheers for the compliments once again. :kiss
I managed to thread some clear plastic tube through the heater channel last night (from under the rear seat up into the under bonnet area [not using original heater]) so I can run my wiring from the battery to amps, ignition etc and back to to fuse box under rear seat on the passenger side....trying to keep everything hidden and as neat as possible.
Dasdubber wrote:Two bolts accessed through tweeter/woofer holes and one through the port hold them in place - all of which are a pain in the ar$e to access but to have them hidden from view it had to be done.
Hey Das, in the picture you posted, what are the holes, in the kickpanels, facing each other in line with the tunnel?
EDIT: The one you posted on 25-4-2005 at 19:38
[Edited on 28-4-2005 by Octa]
'We teach best what we most need to learn'
VW no more... sigh.... well, at least it's a cousin
*puts hand up*
they're ports. they're ported enclosures due to low volume and space constraints. I reckon you should put a couple of little tiny streamers next to them so when it's pumping they flick around :thumb:thumb:thumb
it's gonna be a hack of a sound stage. splits are definately the way to go, with the largely non-directional low frequencies coming from the back. You can get little ~15 degree angled bosses for the tweeters to point them up further if you need to btw das, but when mine were in the top of the front door panels they seemed to offer reasonable clarity. alas, since being t-boned a while back I never re-installed them in the front and have lost considerable high-mid definition. I take it you have no real need for a separate crossover with the two amps? I bags first droolride 😀😀
let sleeping dubs lie
oo how bout gunmetal/anthracite/haematite....
ooooo
*waits for cups to reappear*
*starts getting ideas*
*leaves it to you*
let sleeping dubs lie
Yep Peter has it in one - the ports were calucated using box design software (some of which is over my head) to obtain optimal response from the midbass woofers. As stated above with a low volume the efficiency of the woofer's movement would be adversely affected, therefore a 2in diameter port at 5in length was calculated to provide the best response.
I haven't decided yet whether to run the front splits active (off the amps) or passively (via the dynaudio crossovers)....probably passive to start with. I tried to keep the tweeters as far away as possible from the driver/passenger in attempt to equalise pathlengths from each tweeter - hopefully that way the sound stage will be further enhanced (better Left/Right separation). The time delay feature of the headunit will help as well with the tuning. Fairly simple system compared to some, but hopefully will sound quite nice. :P
Peter, you must think like me re. the wheels! I had the tyres stripped today, so hopefully in a few weeks they'll be back in all their glory. Front spacers for the wheels will be made next week as well.
[Edited on 28-4-2005 by Dasdubber]
Good work! As always.
Thats creative using the old heater channeling to conceal the wiring. Not to mention neat and practicle and all those other things. Good thinkin 99.
Do you need an active heater for a car to pass roadworthy laws. As in does it need hot air can you just blow cold air?
1958 Beetle, 1966 VW Beetle, 1996 Holden Statesman!
Its an obsesion for engines and fuel.... 😏
Tis bug NEEDS to be on the front cover of every Bug magazine on the planet!
Awesome. Cant wait to see it finished.
Jon.
[Edited on 28/4/2005 by upliftin]
BLUE_62 wrote:Do you need an active heater for a car to pass roadworthy laws. As in does it need hot air can you just blow cold air?
As far as I am aware you need to have a working windscreen demister/fan setup - I will be mounting a kombi electric fan (used for the heater) under the amp rack with hoses connected to the windscreen vents. If hot air is required, a rethink of my plans may be in order. I'll check with the engineer next time I talk to him.
Jon, nice beetle! I love the smoothy hubcaps - looks nice and tidy.
no updates today???? *cries* I need my fix man!!! lol
'73 Bay - Fergus
Been busy yesterday puring 4 1/2 cubic metres of concrete! Plus down the coast surfing 😉
Nonetheless, I managed to feed some plastic tube through both heater channels to route the wiring - the brown stuff you can see down in the a-pillar is wax. Obviously all the dust and crap in these pics will be cleaned up soon!
Here is the drivers side under seat area that will house the optima yellow top battery....and the Stinger 1/0 gauge cable which will power the amps under the bonnet.
Hopefully some wiring will go in tomorrow!
Noice. Bet that wire is gonna be fun to terminate.. what connectors are you using?
let sleeping dubs lie
Out of interest Das, No heater? (not that you need one here)
kkk
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Peter, I'll be using stinger platinum terminals for battery and same make distribution block to divide the 1/0 into two runs of 4 gauge for the amps.
Nah, no heater. Not really necessary here in Brissy - never had one in my old beetle...just had to wear a thicker jumper every now and again 😀
Anyway, big day on the wiring today - took a couple of hours to lay out all the cables to figure out what had to go where (wanted to avoid pulling the wrong cables through the wrong spot!).
I kept most of the power wires through the right heater channel, and most other wires through either the left heater channel or through the roof (where original harness ran).
After a bit of lube (silicon spray) assisted slipping the cables through both tubes - especially the thick power cable.
Knocked up an MDF mounting box for the fuse panel - wires everywhere at the moment but it should be pretty sano once done. Painted it in body colour so it looked the goods (sorta).
As you can see, I still have a bit of work ahead of me :o
Umm stringy fun !!!
Da Time For The Aircooled Revolution Is Upon US.
Brothers & Sisters Lets Hit The Streets, Roll As One. And Feel The Power Of The Aircooled Storm.
that is a lot of wires. Is that just for the stereo or the regular loom included (lights, indicators, etc)?
'We teach best what we most need to learn'
VW no more... sigh.... well, at least it's a cousin