I need help on how to fix this if anyone else has also experienced this and fixed it. It is on a 65 beetle and the passenger door just swings open when cornering, not good for bike riders and not door for my doors near poles 🙁
I threw my best mate out of the pass, side a few months ago in the fast street car we built.
Right in the middle of a busy intersection.
After he was ok we laughed our asses off!!!
Re adjust the stricker plate on the door pillar upwards,by moving 2 screws in side the unit itself.
Sounds like you have some sort of body flex....
All the bolts in place from floor pan to body??
"O.S.K"
We make it happen!
I thought it might have been body flex to but wasn't sure. I have moved the striker plate up as much as i can and still happenes. I don't know where the bolts to floor pan are but ill check it out. thanks for the help.
Sounds like the sprung striker inside the door unit has worn out.
Grab one from a wrecker or i can send you one of the many i have as spares.
A.
"O.S.K"
We make it happen!
Now that you have had the technical response that will get it working, we'll jump in with the obvious humerous responses!
Say it with me - 'duct tape'.
Not a fun thing to happen, I remember going out with the passenger door on my dad's Vauxhall Viva when I was young...hated every right turn since then!
[Edited on 26/5/2005 by phantom]
How about getting really really fat friends that wont eject so easily, and if they do will withstand greater impact.?
Loves a lolcat
I saw a car a few years back. The owner welded the drivers door shut because the hinges were stuffed!
the floorpan bolts are under the car, all the way around. Just look under the runner and you'll see them. Can't hurt to make sure they aren't loosening, but as it's already been said, probably not your prob.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I don't think the body/pan bolts would be loose unless someone has loosened a LOT of them.....
Its probably the door striker or door latch that is faulty....
make sure the striker plates buffer [rubber] still works OK..
a sudden jolt will only open a door with a faulty catch or buffer not working...
heres a pic..
Lee Noonan -- 68AutoBug ---
http://communiuty.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
how to adjust the striker plate...
the rubber buffer at the top should be spring loaded....
Only door I saw that opened like that had the buffer missing and a piece of rubber glued at the top of the door......
Had been fixed by a non VW Mechanic....
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
The rubber fell off the tailgate on my kombi. That was interesting.
It's just as bad if they aren't in exactly the right place. Doors won't close or they will rattle like nothing else.
Once you have adjusted the latch to your satisfaction, take it for a quick drive. Best to get any problems sorted out before you have to go on a long drive. It can be very distracting having a door rattling.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
