I have put a 68 1500 motor into a 1970 beetle
Having trouble changing gear, especially 1st, 2nd and reverse..
Was suggested it might be thrust washer...
pulled clutch out and found this:
Photos show the clutch , that came with the motor...
photos of the thrust bearings are on right, the one that came with the motor, and on left, the one that was in the car...
Also noticed some marks in the bell housing as seen in the final photo..
any suggestions on whether this clutch is compatible with this thrust bearing and any other ideas as to why you need to be a weight lifter to get the car into 1st when the motor is running?...Gears change easily when motor is not running
thanks in advance...
The marks on the bellhousing look like they were from removal/insertion of the motor. You tend to get those marks if you have to wiggle the motor out.
If it was a fairly linear wear instead of just static tooth marks I'd be worried.
Question about the clutch: Is it just the photo or is the clutch plate horribly off-center?
1st 2nd and reverse? Did you re-adjust the shift plate under the gear lever for the new transmission? I really hope it isn't that. If it is, you went to a lot of unnecessary trouble.
edit: The shift plate can stop you from getting into those gears quite effectively if it isn't adjusted for your transmission. It can even feel alright with the engine stopped.
I always had that problem with the shortshifter (ended up pullng it out again) and when i put the type3 transmission in my S beetle.
[Edited on 12/6/2005 by General_Failure]
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
could be that your synchro cones in the gearbox are gone, this means rebuilding the gearbox...
when you say adjust..how would you do that...
We took it to a mechanic on Friday who adjusted something under where the clutch plate is, which meant we could drive it home, but we are not wanting to drive it too much if there is something else wrong...
do these components appear correct?
you undo the 2 bolts on the gearstick and slid it ether left, right, backwards and forwards till it will change gears easily. note only do this if you are having trouble selecting the gears when the engine isnt running.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
barls wrote:you undo the 2 bolts on the gearstick and slid it ether left, right, backwards and forwards till it will change gears easily. note only do this if you are having trouble selecting the gears when the engine isnt running.
I always had the nearly but not quite problem. It felt ok with the engine off. When I started up I could get it into gear with some struggling. With the shortshift I'd always end up in reverse instead of 2nd.
Give the shift plate a try. Just mark where it was before you move it.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
General_Failure wrote:barls wrote:you undo the 2 bolts on the gearstick and slid it ether left, right, backwards and forwards till it will change gears easily. note only do this if you are having trouble selecting the gears when the engine isnt running.
I always had the nearly but not quite problem. It felt ok with the engine off. When I started up I could get it into gear with some struggling. With the shortshift I'd always end up in reverse instead of 2nd.
Give the shift plate a try. Just mark where it was before you move it.
yeah your right mate make sure you mark it as it can save a lot time if its not the problem
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
For sure. I learned the hard way to mark it. It also helped if the bolts ever worked loose. Primarily with the shortshift.
It's only a few minutes of time and minimal effort to check of it is the problem, so it can't hurt.
Fingers crossed for you pusscat that it's only a maladjusted shift plate.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Some diaphram clutch units (like your one) for VW's have a circular plate piece attached to the end of fingers in the centre of the clutch plate. This allows the clutch to be used with the old style throw bearings.
Is the clutch of your original motor? Did you use your original throw out bearing?
That's what we're wondering, if perhaps we are missing a bit off the clutch?...
The throwout bearing thingys are pictured above. THe one on the left is from the chassis of the 70, the one on the right is from the clutch plate taken out of the other car with the engine....
I am pretty sure that there should be a tubular guide peice that slips over the gear box input shaft too. I noticed in the pic that there is a threaded hole right below the shaft. This guide helps to align the throw out bearing and stop it from incorrectly contacting the clutch fingers.
From my experience when you use a diaphram style clutch in a T1 or T3 you need to have either the circular peice that fits on the fingers or the tubular guide for them to work properly.
you guys are on the money..thats a late pressure plate fitted to an early throw out ..they dont like each other..swap the pressure plate with the pad style as already mentioned and while you are at it swap the clutch lever around ...you may get a little better pedal feel !cheers dsk steve
