Hoping someone can help me....
1600 Kombi engine.
Oil leaking from very common place, where the engine meets the gear box, right in the middle at the bottom, beteen the studs.....
Took the engine out, changed the flywheel seal and O ring.... still leaking!
There isnt much end play in the motor? Where could it be coming from and how can I stop it......
Cam plug? dont know much about this?? can it be fixed if its coming from there?
Gearbox oil? could it be coming from there//.....?!!!
HELP please...............:sandrine
Low Slow and Cruising
Gearbox oil is thinner, and tends to be greyish when it finds its way out. Honey if its new of course.
That is a nasty little problem you have there my friend.
How bad is the oil leak?
If it's bad enough to be noticable, may I suggest pulling out the oil filler in the transmission (when cold!) and sticking your little finger in. If you cover your finger in oil you need more. If not then it's not the transmittion.
If you need more oil, top it up, and then recheck later to see if it's leaking.
How much oil does your motor use normally? any usage spikes recently?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Quite possibly a cracked case! Remove the flywheel and inspect behind the flywheel on the oil cooler side of the crank case for a verticle crack.
Dozza wrote:There isnt much end play in the motor?
what do you call not much??
3 thou???
Can you feel it??
Should only be able to feel it.
there is a drain back hole near the seal - is that blocked?
any burs on the shimmecutting the seal??
Futue te ipsum!!!
try this quick tip ...when flywheel is removed splash the case with lavish amounts of talcom powder......blow off the excess and sit back and watch...if the case is cracked a oil line will appear thru the talc..if there are no lines the case is ok....try and do this as soon as the engine is pulled..ps degrease the troubled area first ,then apply the talc when its dry..cheers steve
Dozza
Took the engine out, changed the flywheel seal and O ring
Was there a good surface where the oil seal runs?
or was it grooved?
Grahame
visit my club site at
www.vwdcqinc.org.auheah check that lip on the flywheel dozza
lucky u not in London mate..
Karmen
56 oval resto 60 Cal KG
58 & 62 beetle parting. 74 panel parting
63 Baja 80 GLD parting
58 donor split 11 window 63 Splitty sgle cab /son's
96 Seat Cordoba GLX daily drvr.
Thanks guys....
Karmen... Yeah I am not in London, lots of friends there though..... I know someone who has a friend that was killed! I think a lot of people in London were expecting it though...
..................................
Will try the talc idea when I get the engine out....
Surface was good around the oil seal..... dont think it is that...
Wouldnt there be more oil leaking if thew case was cracked? The leak isnt that bad, say 5, 10 drops after the engine is cut
Can it be fixed if its cracked, or is that a silly question, already recently changed this motor for a one with a crack in the case by the oil pump!
Low Slow and Cruising
I had this on a type 1 case, had the engine in and out half a dozen times replacing the oil seal, checking it again and again and it ended up being a cracked case that only leaked when hot.
If the groove that the "o-ring" sits in is not spotlessly clean you can get a leak from there. It happened to me, took engine out to fix oil leak (main seal), back in to find a worse leak, back out cleaned groove spotless and no more leaks. Im talking O-ring not main seal.
Cheers
SAS
Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers
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Another thing to check is that the fly wheel shims have not cut a groove in the crank shaft. It is possible for the shims to cut a groove down to the flywheel dowels and cause oil to leak out the dowell holes. You cannot repair this. Crank is junk basically.
carn't ya redrill and increase dowel size Grey?
you can also remove the wire spring inside the seal and cut of a few mms and rejoin it to icrease the tension, be careful - i would check the run of the seal by hand on the actual flywheel.
I imagine you could carefully put water in the seal , to the top of the rim of seal----to see if it leaked through while it sits on the horizontally positioned flywheel
Karmen
56 oval resto 60 Cal KG
58 & 62 beetle parting. 74 panel parting
63 Baja 80 GLD parting
58 donor split 11 window 63 Splitty sgle cab /son's
96 Seat Cordoba GLX daily drvr.
No you cant re-drill. The cut will be thru the outside of the crank down thru the dowel holes. Where the seal and shims sit.
No you cant re-drill. The cut will be thru the outside of the crank down thru the dowel holes. Where the seal and shims sit.
any pics to explain grey 57 i was talkin of loose dowel situa'n OR elongated holes in the flywheel Dozza!
but should have quoted hay
cheers
Karmen
56 oval resto 60 Cal KG
58 & 62 beetle parting. 74 panel parting
63 Baja 80 GLD parting
58 donor split 11 window 63 Splitty sgle cab /son's
96 Seat Cordoba GLX daily drvr.
You guys..... I am a little confused now.....:duh
Low Slow and Cruising
ok, a groove can be worn on the flywheel from the actual seal connection esp if the seal is old and HARD.
2ndly if the fywheel has been loose the dowelholes into the crank can be elongated causing some oil to seep -make sure there is no gaps
Karmen
56 oval resto 60 Cal KG
58 & 62 beetle parting. 74 panel parting
63 Baja 80 GLD parting
58 donor split 11 window 63 Splitty sgle cab /son's
96 Seat Cordoba GLX daily drvr.
Its not from the seal , its from the big round shims that are used to set the end float on the crank. These are between the flywheel and the shoulder on the crank. If the flywheel loosens slightly these shims start to rotate on the crank and can cut a trench thru into the dowel holes. You would see the damage straight away when you inspect the crank.
If your dowel holes are elongated then its probable that the flywheel has become slightly loose.
