I have a twin port 1600 engine sitting out of a Kombi at the moment. Had it running when I bought it, was told a head had gone but they werent 100%
There is definately some end play, but I am not really sure of the best way to check it. Do I need specialist tools or is there a easy way to check it.
If its excessive can I change the shims to reduce it??
When I grab the pulley wheel on the end of the crankshaft as you would expect it does move with a slight clunk, I know this is suppossed to be very slight, but without years of experience I would trust myself to guess how many thous of an inch it was! I dont want to rebuild the top end just to find the end play was to much later down the line.
All advice much appriciated
Cheers
Dozza
Low Slow and Cruising
.004 is S. F. A. if you can see any movement then its nackered ,you should be able to just percieve the slightest movement
yes - if you can see it, it is too much. Yes you should be able to "hear" it.
Have a look at a feeler gauge. You set your rockers at .006" Yes - you can feel then but that is a light action. It is also 50% more that acceptable end play
You can buy cheap gadgets that bolt to the case and then you can use feeler gauges to see what it is, by pulling and pushing on the other end.
The propper depth gauge thingie is a bit expensive if you are doing it once.nn[ Edited on 7-8-2005 by Bizarre ]
Futue te ipsum!!!
Ok... can I compensate with different sized shims?
Thanks
DOzza
Low Slow and Cruising
The end play can be shimmed up BUT most likely the play is the actual bearing moving in the case tunnel.
If you try to use shims to correct that it will turn bad.
Get the flywheel off, cleanit all up, and have someone sus it out before you put in the new seal.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
end play = sell sell sell
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ok when I try to move it, I can see the movement, only slightly, but I can see it. So lets presume its bugered.
Obviously I need to spllit the case to fix it and get it rebored. dont I??
Is this a tricky operation? I have done plenty of top ends, just not bottom ends. Is it worth it.
I have a crankshaft, pistons and cylinders of a new engine that had a cracked case, would I be better of using these and getting it rebored????
Or just throwing the bastard away and sourcing another one!?!?!?!
Low Slow and Cruising
If the main bearing is moving and it sounds like it is then you have the rebuild the engine.
You need to get a machinist to check it out
Cases can have many lives
Standard
First cut - 20 thou
2nd cut - 40 thou
3rd cut - 60 thou (dont laugh, people do it 😢 )
Cranks as well
Standard
first grind - 10 thou
2nd grind - 20 thou
3rd grind - 30 thou
4th grind - 40 thou (eeewwww!!!! 😢 )
So - it all depends on what you case was last.
If it is already cut to 40 thou and you crank is at 30 thou..... well.........yep, junk
If it was standard case and crank - it has the making of a rebuild.
With end play it is more to do with the thrust bearing face. This is where the hammering occurs. An oversized bearing needs to be cut to fit in.
So - you really cant tell unless you are good at micrometers etc etc.
Best thing would be to strip it all down and send it to the person who you want to machine it. If he says yes, then pay the $$ and get it cut. If he says no then dont bother picking it up
Futue te ipsum!!!
I had the end play measured...
11 thou....
Can I get away with just leaving it at that and rebuilding the top end now??
Low Slow and Cruising
What if the endplay seems to have grown in a short amount of time?
Something loosend up?
My engine when I got it had very little endplay, but now it is very visable and makes a big clunk.
Have only used the engine for prob 4 hours.
Cheers
.
Hey Chewy, are you stealing my thread dude???
Anyone know if 11 thou is ok?
Chewy.... sounds like something has gone wrong in the short time you have had it.... speak to the people you bought it off...
Good luck
Low Slow and Cruising
congrats you have a new boat anchor:P
Dozza
11 thou is not ok. It is not far out (well - almost 3x more than .oo4) but it is out. You will only stuff the case more by continuing to use it. I wouldnt do a top end rebuild on it - but i wouldnt throw the motor out now either.
Now if you have dropped a valve and it is your only form of transport and you have a spare head there and your wife needs to get to hospital..........
yeah... i would swap the head
But would i spend a grand on new heads and P&C and rings......nope
You will only be rebuilding in a year or so
Chewy
sounds like you main bearing has decided to move. Definitely time to pull down
Futue te ipsum!!!
Endplay is supposed to be within 0.004" to 0.006". If it is noticable just by yanking the pulley it is stuffed. No amount of shims will fix this, you are only supposed to use three shims anyway. The only real proper solution is to rebuild the whole thing. I wouldn't spend any more money on it unless you absolutely had to have it moving. Basically if you have to split the case you might as well rebuild the whole engine as splitting the case really is the complete disassembly of the engine.
It's better to spend the $$$ once and do it properly and not have to worry later on i reckon.
Jon
Che Castro wrote:It's better to spend the $$$ once and do it properly and not have to worry later on i reckon.
Very true, I've been bitten by the "I'll just fix it up to keep it going monster" a couple of times and now its do it right or dont do it at all.
Cheers
SAS
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