After reading a related post on cooling, it reminded me that I have too much cooling! (at warmup anyway) It's a 1200 40hp engine - is it missing the thermo and flaps? It doesn't have a air bypass ring on the fan intake either... I thought it would be good know since Hellbourne seems to be freezing over soon with some lovely cold weather...
[Edited on 20/6/2005 by oval TOFU]
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
Missing the flaps? Wouldn't that make a lot of air blow past the oil cooler and heat it up? I've never looked at a 1200 closely though.
It is getting a bit chilly here. isn't it?
With the wet, that drops your engine temp even more if it runs cool normally.
If your motor is permanently in running temp mode it should be okay.
Get the parts if you can. Getting up to running temp quicker reduces wear and chance of failure. Cold temp = worse lubrication & much higher oil pressure. Things can leak or rupture at high pressure.
But if you can't it's better to run too cool than too hot. Not good to run too cool. But at least your engine doesn't cook.
The weather here is mild compared to the extremes I used to get back home. My beetle was missing all its preheat gear but it'd be okay in about 10 minutes. It loved the cold. We all know that cooler air can mean better performance, as long as your manifolds don't freeze.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I have never seen a vw aircooled motor without all the thermo bits removed.
never? I think I've seen one stock with all the bits. It was a resto.
They are usually missing some of it though, aren't they. Like my poor beetle. Someone had hacksawed through the preheat tube on both sides, just a little clear of where it's fused to the big T-Piece. Why would anyone do that? I can understand the other ducts that use the exhaust heat to warm the engine being removed though.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
I think thats part of my problem, Has anyone got a Throttle ring and thermostat 4 a 36hp for sale? And are they the same as the 40hp?
Never ever seen a real 36hp throttle ring before (other than in books) on any of the many 36hp motors I have come into contact with over the years. Hard to find. Ever harder to find the thermostat that controls them.
I dont think that manifold icing has a lot to do with engine temp. More to do with a long manifold and the nature of carburetor venturis.
never?
I suppose there might have been a thermo under the tinware of one or two...
😀Grey 57 wrote:Never ever seen a real 36hp throttle ring before (other than in books) on any of the many 36hp motors I have come into contact with over the years. Hard to find. Ever harder to find the thermostat that controls them.
I've seen a throttle ring on eBay for something close to (or over) AU$200 :jesus
I dont think that manifold icing has a lot to do with engine temp. More to do with a long manifold and the nature of carburetor venturis.
that's right, unless you're running really hot (which is bad!) Most engines have much shorter manifolds and therefore, don't need the preheating that stock beetles do
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
Should I replace the missing flaps etc?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
yep, with out the flaps the heater wont work properly
Grey 57 wrote:yep, with out the flaps the heater wont work properly
how come?
the flaps in the bottom tin on an 36hp and 40hp motors re-direct the hot air off the engine from blowing out the back of the motor to inside the heater ducts. Basically close off the tin underneath the motor.
Totally different to a fresh air heater set up on later 40hp motors
Seeing that I have the later 40HP,the heater is not affected by my missing flaps. However, it would still be a good idea to replace them, nein? ..or add a manifold heting blanket kit to stop the engine from stalling at the lights when it's luke-warm.. Anyone got a set of the aforementioned flaps and even a thermostat?
oh the luxury of a properly idling engine... must check my idle jets soon too..
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
The fresh air 40 hp didnt have the same flap arrangement that the non fresh 40 & 36hp motors had. (confused yet??)
I think they had a flap arrangement in the fan housing its self. Controlled by a thermostat mounted at the bottom of the engine.
I think that the 1300 or 1500 stuff would probably fit. Pretty sure that the fresh air fan housings are all the same for 1200 (40)
1300 and 1500 Beetle. ???
Grey 57 wrote:The fresh air 40 hp didnt have the same flap arrangement that the non fresh 40 & 36hp motors had. (confused yet??)
I think they had a flap arrangement in the fan housing its self. Controlled by a thermostat mounted at the bottom of the engine.
I think that the 1300 or 1500 stuff would probably fit. Pretty sure that the fresh air fan housings are all the same for 1200 (40)
1300 and 1500 Beetle. ???
I would think so too... doesn't sound like many ppl have even seen a set working properly... starting to wonder if I should bother? I know it's not doing my engine any favours.. which is bad as I need longevity..
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
didnt the 1600 have the same type of arrangement?
As far as l know the late 1200 has the same flaps as the 1300,1500 and 1600s. Are thermostats available for these?
You can still get the thermostat bellow used as well as the other stuff. I have a set of the 1600 flaps and thermostat with the bracket but not for sale.
Ovaltofu, not too sure about the 1200's but you shouldn't need to have anything else on the manifold to stop it icing, the factory exhaust preheat pipe is plenty for our climate. Plus there is the preheat air pipe that goes into the aircleaner (once again not sure if they were on 1200s from teh factory either)
Jon
My manifold is blocked - tried to clean it out with a splayed wire and lots of degreaser (soaked it good too!) but no good. A new manifold is on the horizon.. I'm using the oil bath air cleaner with the preheat air pipe, but it's not connected up. Once through the tinware, where does it draw the warm air from? Just below the cylinders or something?
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
My preheat manifold used to be blocked, one solution is to get an old clutch cable (or any steel threaded cable) and stick one end in the drill, cut off one end to about half the length of the manifold and stick it in and go crazy. dont make the cable too long or it'll probably whip you 🙂 You could even try soaking it overnight in some kind of degreaser to loosen up all the carbon deposits. Dont know about the 1200's but my heater boxes have an outlet towards the front for the preheat to the carby, this really helps when it gets cold.
The 1600 style has teh bellows connected to the bottom RHS of the sump on a bracket. Air gets blown from above past the cylinders and heads and down past the pushrod tubes and onto the bellows. The bellows expand at around 70 deg i think - it is threaded on one side to a pushrod which reaches up through the cylinder head and acutates the flaps which are by default held shut by a spring attached on the backside of the fan shroud.
Jon
I tired unblocking it with an outer sheath from a push bike brake cable, only got so far though - and that was after soaking it over a severl nights in degreaser and turps..
I think I'll just route the preheater tube to where the air passes through the barrels then.
Thanks for the advices.
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
