A freind of mine has just bought a 67 bettle and well the cluch was slipping so she has had a new cluch put in but it is still shuddering in first when you take off. Any ideas what may be the cause and how to fix it
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http://www.babygear4u.comWhen they replaced teh clutch did they check teh gearbox mount and replace and see if the steel brackets where OK
Did they replace just the clutch plate only or did they do the pressure plate as well.
Gearbox mount! i had the same problem, i changed my clutch and it was still doing it. on my old beetle it was happening to so i changes my gearbox and it was still doing it. until last week when i got a new gearbox mount in my buggy and the car feels better then ever. (i learnt the hard way)
Before you judge someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you judge them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes.
Checked ya "Bowden Tube"???
You should have a clutch kit fitted, that includes: clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing, when you do a clutch overall. You should also have the flywheel skimmed when you fit a clutch kit.
Gearbox mountings can also make it shudder and the" Bowden Tube" (Next to the gearbox) has to have a bow in it.
If it is all ok, then you have to check the rest of the clutch tube in the tunnel, it is mounted in 3 places, (at the pedals, under the handbrake and at the back where it goes out of the tunnel) it is usually the back two that brakes.
I hope this helps.
Hermann
2000cc turbo type 4, dragster (325Kw)
2714cc no turbo, no gas, street bug (140Kw)
what they said ^
Bowden tube is stuffed.
Clutchand .pressuer plate and throw out bearing was all replaced. will have a look and gearbox mounr would it be just the front one or the two rear ones as well and as for the bowden tube is that easy to replace
thanks
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To replace the bowden tube you have to:
Loosen the adjusting nut on the clutch cable and push the rear of the bowden tube forward, out of its rear mounting hole (the tube is very stiff, but you will be able to bend it wile pushing it out).
When tube is out of mountung hole, pull clutch cable through the mounting hole as well.
Then the bowden tube can just be pulled out infront, where it fits over the steel tube in the chassis.
The bowden tube is just longer than a foot and must have a kink in it of about an inch (no less).
If the tube is not cracked or broken you must just make sure that it has the kink.
If it is too straight, you can use washers that fit over the rear of the tube to space it forward, and so create the kink that you need.
Then you can just put the cable back and adjust your clutch.
I hope you understand what I tried to explane, It is not too difficult to do the job.
On the late model cars the rear mounting on the bowden tube was a bracket, that could be removed, and that makes it easyer.
Hermann
2000cc turbo type 4, dragster (325Kw)
2714cc no turbo, no gas, street bug (140Kw)
yes sounds very easy and i have done it once or twice before just couldn't remember
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