Just in the last day or so I have noticed that when waiting at light etc (i.e. stationary with clutch pedal full pressed and brake on) that the engine is idling too high. I'm no mechanic so that's the best I can describe it. Once you get going again in first it drops back down so only ever occurs when stationary with clutch pedal in. Hmmm what else can I tell you, ummm it's a '76 Kombi with a 2 litre engine and webers on it.
Also don't know if this is related but now when you get to your destinaiton and turn off the ignition, the engine wants to go foir another 3 or 4 seconds before spluttering to a halt.
Is this something an amateur (i.e. me) can have a look at and rectify?
Cheers 🙂
Try and see if it's only when you press the brake? Try applying it for a few seconds, then off for a few seconds. If it idles faster with the brake on it's a good chance your master cylinder is on the way out.
If not, and considering the running on problem, do the webbers have a solenoid cut off like the stock ones? (the twin solex's had 3 solenoids) If they play up it can also affect ideling and running on.
Andy
the Webers have no cutoff, neither does the whole fuel setup in that vehicle (mechanical pump as well) Scott, read about the brake booster in the manual It describes a test, the booster works on vacuum (suck) from engine, if there is a vacuum leak at idle then the engine will run faster if it is related as Andy said, to application of the brakes at idle then it is a leak/malfunction somewhere in booster/mastercylinder assembly, if you get stuck ring me & we will talk through it
the Running On of the engine is related to the problem & was a problem with Kombi motors which is why the original carburettors were fitted with cutoff solenoids which cut the fuel supply to the idle circuit when you turn off the ignition
Andy,,,,got the envelope thanks, tried to asemble the thing on the wiring diagram & blew up the office
[Edited on 29-4-2003 by kombikim]
😀 Just to confuse the enemy :thumb
Hmmm still high idling regardless of whether or not the brake pedal is engaged....
Possibly another vacuum leak somewhere? Check all your vacuum lines and connections (there's quite a few there!!!)
Maybe your carbies need adjusting: I'm not familiar with Webers but lots of carbies have idle speed adjustment screws which control how much fuel gets through the idle jets. I had exactly the same symptoms on the same engine with dual solex carbs, after a full tune (including timing) and carbie adjustment it ran perfectly.
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
I checked these carbies & the condition of these, & indeed the whole set up & tune of the engine is to Die for :o - AS IN TO COVERT, any adverse fiddling with the carbies settings is likely to end up in an expensive tune up
[Edited on 30-4-2003 by kombikim]
KOM123 wrote:Hmmm still high idling regardless of whether or not the brake pedal is engaged....
Bring it over on the Weekend !!!
Hey,
Do not be afraid of your webers but learn about them BEFORE you fiddle.
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/idf_adjustment_controls.htm
I have just fitted 40 IDFS to my Kombi and I love them.
I can think of no reason why engaging the clutch should raise the engine speed other than marginally100-200rpm( due to not having to turn the gearbox)
check the linkage first to see if it is fully closing.
Jeff
Thanks for the replies so far will check a few things over. DakDat I might take you up the weekend visit offer if I can't get things sorted by then 🙂
Idling high, then running on (or dieseling, as it's often known in the trade,) is usually a sign of a lean mixture. Accept the offer of help, as running lean can cause damage to your engine.
Check the end float of the engine .. If it has a heap I would bet that is the problem.
When you put the clutch in you push the crank back which changes your timing on the dizy so your idle goes up. Seen it a bit in 1600, pretty funny cause most people don't beleive you till they see it, ask 555BUG ..🙂
