nearly completed my V8 conversion

kevo · 2006-01-19T13:23:18+00:00

starting on monday the 16th, i've ripped the v8 out of the rover, (blew up the gearbox) stripped it, cleaned it all up, bolted up the new 1500lb clutch n new flywheel n adaptor plate n dorve to my mate gatage in quinns rocks north of perth to get the transplant under way, my mate is a plumber also which helped heaps as he got me all my 40mm copper piping to pump the coolant from the front to back, kombi engines are so easy to get out!!! better than bloody beetle engines!!! at the moment, ah well, ill try n get as many fotos up now b4 i get hungry n need beer n food haha, catcha kevo [ Edited on 21/1/2006 by kevo ]

baybuscamperkid prince of insufficient light, ruler of heck

4,316 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 1 Feb 2006, 9:39 am

#452647

one thing i would suggest, it is possible that those elbows at the front of the rad piping will not last long. because the kombi has a rather long overhang, i found with my bullbar (admittedly heavier duty then yours and with a spare wheel attached) the bottom of my bullbar, exactly where your hoses cross the bottom of yours, would regular,y hit the ground on angled driveways.

Reimagined/Recycled/Upcycled Cool

vwtyp2 Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,504 posts · joined Sep 2003 · 1 Feb 2006, 7:31 pm

#452797

all that weight on the front doesn't do the steering box any favours either, so I found out in my '73 camper.

Most people seem normal, till you get to know them.

pete wood 23 Windows of Awesome

6,828 posts · joined Jan 2004 · 2 Feb 2006, 4:24 pm

#453019

Kevo,

Looks like you're having a lot of fun. Good on ya, that's what hot rodding dubs is all about. 😏

Just a few thoughts,

if I were you, I'd replace the copper tubing with steel or stainless steel. A good mate of mine who's done quite a number of v6/v8 conversions into Kombis says that's the best stuff to use. Copper oxidises and makes a real mess inside the lines.

I'd also get the tube bent properly instead of just putting rubber bends in. The way to do it is to take the car down the to the local exhaust shop and get him to bend up the tubes in one length. The steel is cheap and he'll have a hoist too.

And i agree with baybuscamperkid, those pipes around the bumper won't last long, they'll scrape, rupture and you'll have a real mess on your hands.

Good luck with it. :thumb

"stoopid is stronger than axles"
http://drivingnotpolishing.blogspot.com.au/

clinkerfield Learner Dubber

1 post · joined Feb 2006 · 21 Feb 2006, 10:12 pm

#458286

Hi Kevo,
just new to this group. I have a 77 Kombi with 3.5 rover as well. We did the conversion about 5 years ago. You can run the lower pulley inboard of the harmonic balancer, make a new alternator bracket to go to top right of engine near battery and machine off water pump and run a davies craig electric water pump. This way you can keep the standard rear door and noone will know. Good to see you used rover engine mounts, nice and easy. I bought my adapter plate through John Sherman on the Gold Coast here in Qld, nice and light as well. Commodore radiator and run the pipes behin the top of the bumper through the subframe so they can't be seen as well. Just some thoughts, I have pictures if you are interested in any more.
Cheers
Dave

kevo Officially Full-On Dubber

371 posts · joined Mar 2005 · 10 Mar 2006, 4:07 pm

#462883

yer dude, chuck your fotos up i'd love to have a look, cheers mate

76 baywindow kombi - V8 & Weddle racing diff and gearbox
Daily driven beach cruiser

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 10 Mar 2006, 5:16 pm

#462897

ill second Pete Wood in saying that copper pipework is no good for cooling systems
my rotabug had copper and there were some lovely little build ups blocking the pipework after a few years of use

Joel

GeorgeL Officially Full-On Dubber

231 posts · joined Feb 2006 · 11 Mar 2006, 4:45 am

#463027

DUB74L wrote:ill second Pete Wood in saying that copper pipework is no good for cooling systems
my rotabug had copper and there were some lovely little build ups blocking the pipework after a few years of use

Joel

I wonder if it might have something to do with electrolysis, with the tubes grounded to the body creating a current loop with the aluminum engine?

If the tubes are electrically isolated they should not corrode at all. No return current path

There are a number of copper-plumbed Vanagons running around here and they don't seem to have this problem.

George